Maintaining the quality appearance and condition of your boat

Clean, Polish and Wax

There are many articles on boat finishes and in one form or another, they have a similar message that says paint does "breathe" and it does contain emollients and oils that make it shine. Paint will dry out if left exposed and unprotected by wax. Polishing and waxing both remove the "dead paint" and restore the emollients. Think of using a loaf sponge on your body, then putting on lotion, same concept.

We all like our boats to have that showroom shine forever, however few of us are willing to devote the time required to achieve or maintain it. Yet, unless your boat is very large, maintaining a passable level of cleanliness and shine does not require major effort or a huge time commitment. With proper care boat, paint or Gelcoat can remain in like-new condition for many years. Neglect it and the surface quickly fades and becomes dull. Maintaining the surface involves four steps:

The 4-step maintenance process is detailed as:

1.       Clean It;

2.       Correct It;

3.       Polish It;

4.       Protect It.

By following each of these steps, you will be able to do a quality job.

A word about buffers first

The buffer Meguiar's sells is actually a Porter-Cable 7424. You can dial in the speed you want from fast for compounding to medium for polishing and slow for finishing. A random orbiting buffer is safer to paint than a rotary buffer in most cases. Meguiar's makes their own Velcro hook backing plate in two diameters with their own threaded spindle to match the buffer, so you must order their backing plate. Meguiar's also makes the best foam pads for compound, polishing and finishing around. It is better than the 3M-waffle pattern that rips apart in no time.  The three grades of foam pad that are available come in two diameters 6” and 8”. The small pads work well on small boats while the large ones come in handy for doing yacht size boats. However, if you like putting weight behind a buffer, which is a no-no, then you might consider the 8-inch since it will distribute the weight slightly better. Drape the power cord over your shoulder so it never drags across the body of the boat or is tangled up in the polisher.

Only wool pads should be used, period. Synthetic pads are less expensive and last longer, but they have a tendency to leave noticeable swirl marks. Do not use a lace on pad unless you are planning to repaint your boat. It will come off and at a most inopportune time or the cloth backing will work itself around and gouge the paint. Use only the wool screw on pads. 3M makes 2 pads, a fast cutting pad (# 05701) and a softer polishing pad (# 05705). Always use the pad at a low angle, flat to the boat's surface with only 5 degrees or so of tilt. Recommended buffing speeds are 1500-2500.

Cleanliness is the key. Pay attention, do not get distracted, and make sure everything is squeaky clean before you start. Do not polish where airborne dirt and grime will get ground into the paint. Make sure you polish early before the wind kicks up. Make sure the temperature of the paint surface is cool, not cold and not warm or hot. Use clean pads, a different one for each type of compound, and wash the pads frequently because paint residue will build up and not only reduce the pad's effectiveness but will also scratch the paint. Do not use an old pad that has been lying around gathering dust. Plan on going through several pads to do one boat - it is easier to slap on a new pad than to go clean it.

When you are finished, wash all the pads in a bucket with soapy water then rinse them thoroughly with a garden hose and allow to air dry. Do not machine wash or dry pads.

1.       Clean It

Obviously, you need to wash the boat first then dry it completely.

Since the boat will be polished and waxed later, you want to get rid of all the old wax, grease, dirt and grime. Therefore, this is the only time you will be using a harsh detergentson your boat. This is the only way to assure a properly cleaned surface.

Rinse off loose surface dirt with water before starting. This minimizes abrasion from small particles. Make sure the boat is cool. A hot surface causes the wash to dry too quickly and increases the chance of water spotting. For smooth surfaces, use a large non-abrasive sponge or terry cloth wash mitt. For non-skid areas, a soft bristled brush works well. Keep flushing the surface with water as you go. You do not want to rub particles of dirt into the surfaces.

For stubborn stains, use one of the full-strength stain-removing products. These products work by penetrating and lifting the stain, so apply them and let them work for several minutes before rinsing, several applications may be necessary in tough cases.

Water spots are simply salt and mineral deposits that are left behind when water evaporates. These salts stick to paint and glass and can be extremely difficult to remove if they remain for any length of time. Sometimes they can be permanent, especially in glass. Prevent them by drying immediately with cotton terry cloth towels.

Products that could be used are:

·         3M Marine – Scrubbing Sponge

·         BoatLIFE – Super Spray Boat Cleaner

·         Mirror Glaze - Boat/RV Gel Wash

·         Roll Off

·         Simple Green

·         West Marine - Boat Soap

2.       Correct It

This stage may or may not be necessary depending on the condition of your boat. It is also the step where the most variation and confusion about techniques and products are likely to occur. Run your fingertips across the paint surface. The paint should feel as smooth as glass. If not, you are feeling bonded contaminants and oxidation that must first be removed with an abrasive cleaner

Oxidation is the dulling or hazing appearance of paint or Gelcoat caused by weathering and UV exposure. When a cleaner will not remove the oxidized layer, corrective action requires removal using a color restorer or rubbing compound, depending on the severity of the oxidation. The worse the oxidation, the more aggressive the product.

The sheer abundance of products that claim to restore “like new” brilliance makes it difficult to sort them all out. What all these products are designed to do is to render the surface smooth, clean and free of imperfections, usually through some kind of abrasive action. Specifically how much abrasive action is required is the confusing part. You want to use the minimum necessary to remove the oxidized paint or Gelcoat, without removing the sound material underneath. Always error on the side of too little abrasion, rather than too aggressive a compound.

If the surface is only slightly oxidized, the quickest and most popular way is with so-called one-step cleaner and wax. These products have a very mild abrasive to remove minor oxidation, solvents to help lift stains, and leave a layer of wax protection. The results will not be as flawless or durable as if you used individual products to complete each step, but they do save time.

Color restorers are spray-on, wipe-off liquids that will revive all but severely oxidized paint or Gelcoat. Restorers are a short-term cure and usually last only one season. If a restorer does not remove the oxidation, you will need a more aggressive treatment.

Rubbing compounds contain abrasives that remove a thin layer of the paint or Gelcoat, exposing a fresh surface. If not used correctly, they can destroy the finish. Gelcoat is only 20 to 30 millimeters thick when new. When buffing with a rubbing compound you want to remove just enough of the paint or Gelcoat to correct the problem, normally 12 millimeters or less. Rubbing compound leaves an aggressive scratch pattern and is often followed with a cleaner / wax or finer glaze to remove the scratches, leaving a slight gloss.

When compounding you want to work on a small area 2’ to 2’ square. First, mist the foam applicator pad very lightly with water. Then apply a dime to quarter-size drop of compound directly to the surface of the pad, do not over do it, less is best. Only a thin layer will cure (measured in microns) and the rest will end up as dust that is flung everywhere when buffing. It is important to keep product splatter to a minimum. With the machine off, spread the compound over the work surface using the foam pad. Then set the speed dial on the buffer between 3 and 4 or about 1600 rpms. Then press the compounding pad against the paint and turn the machine on. Use a light touch with the buffer. Let the buffer and compound do the work. The idea is to spread the compound around, constantly moving the buffer in a large random circular pattern. Work the pad over the surface in a figure 8 pattern. Go over the area in a left-to-right figure 8 pattern and then an up-and-down figure 8 pattern. Continue going over the area several times or until the compound starts to dry. If you ever have a greasy surface then you used way- too much compound. If you let the buffer sit in one spot, you will burn or seriously thin the paint.

It is important to inspect the results throughout the compounding process. Spray the surface with a 50/50 solution of Isopropyl Alcohol and water to remove the compounding residues and wipe the area dry with a clean terry cloth towel. Mark the water bottle with a Magic Marker as "Water/Alcohol" to keep them separate. Run your fingertips over the surface to make sure it is it smooth. Look to insure that the swirls have been removed. If not, repeat the compounding and inspection procedure until the swirls are removed or until no further improvement can be observed. After a while of going over the boat, you will notice that the pad is actually polishing the paint, not just spreading the compound around. Check the condition of your pad frequently. Clean any build-up on the pad with a toothbrush by holding buffer with trigger pulled at slow rpm to clean off build up. Alternatively, rinse with warm water, dry and finish buffing. When the surface is as defect-free as you can make it, the compounding is done. Compounding may leave the surface dull depending on the abrasiveness of the compound that was used. This is normal. This dullness will be removed in the next step.

Final notes on severely worn paint. Do not bother with polishing compound, get some good old-fashioned rubbing compound, but be prepared for some drastic paint removal. Rubbing compound is typically much more abrasive than polishing compound. It is used for "knocking down" a new paint job or for a heavily oxidized old paint job. This stuff will cut right through heavy oxidation, etc. However, keep in mind that you run a greater risk of burning right through the paint. Rubbing compound is not recommended except on terminally trashed paint. If you have to resort to rubbing compound, your paint is toast.

Products that could be used are:

·         3M Marine - Finesse-It II

·         3M Marine - Super Duty Rubbing Compound

·         Boat Armor - Marine Polish

·         Iosso - Fiberglass Reconditioner

·         Meguiar's - #3 Professional Machine Glaze

·         Meguiar's Medallion Premium Paint Cleaner

·         Menzerna Intensive Polish

3.       Polish It

As paint or Gelcoat ages, it loses oils and dries out. Polishes replenish these oils to enhance the gloss and restore luster. In addition, polishes can be used to remove swirl marks or tiny scratches. Pure polishes, those that contain no waxes must be over coated with wax or reapplied frequently to maintain their high gloss. Other polishing formulas include Teflon or waxes to increase the durability of their shine. You really should not need to polish a boat more than twice a year at most. Waxing is the thing you want to do more frequently.

When polishing you want to work on a small area 2’ to 2’ square. First, mist the foam applicator pad very lightly with water. Then apply a dime to quarter-size drop of polish directly to the surface of the pad, do not over do it, less is best. Only a thin layer will cure (measured in microns) and the rest will end up as dust that is flung everywhere when buffing. It is important to keep product splatter to a minimum. With the machine off, spread the polish over the work surface using the foam pad. Then set the speed dial on the buffer between 3 and 4 or about 1600 rpms. Then press the polishing pad against the paint and turn the machine on. Use a light touch with the buffer. Let the buffer and polish do the work. The idea is to spread the polish around, constantly moving the buffer in a large random circular pattern. Work the pad over the surface in a figure 8 pattern. Go over the area in a left-to-right figure 8 pattern and then an up-and-down figure 8 pattern. Continue going over the area several times or until the polish starts to dry. If you let the buffer sit in one spot, you will burn or seriously thin the paint.

It is important to inspect the results throughout the polishing process. Spray the surface with water to remove the polishing residues and wipe the area dry with a clean terry cloth towel. Mark the water bottle with a Magic Marker as "Water" to keep them separate. Do not spray the surface with the alcohol and water solution. This would remove fillers and gloss agents that you want to stay on the surface. Run your fingertips over the surface to make sure it is  smooth. Look to insure that the swirls have been removed. If not, repeat the polishing and inspection procedure until the swirls are removed or until no further improvement can be observed. If you ever have a greasy surface then you used way-too much polish. When the surface is as defect-free as you can make it, the polishing is done. Clean any build-up on the pad with a toothbrush by holding buffer with trigger pulled at slow rpm to clean off build up.

Use only light pressure and tip the machine slightly as you cover each area. When removing polish, remember that using more speed is better than applying more pressure. Excessive pressure can cause unnecessary abrasion and scratches in the paint. Buff out any streaks from the just-polished surface.

Products that could be used are:

·         Boat Armor - Marine Polish

·         Iosso - Fiberglass Reconditioner

·         Meguiar’s - #45 Mirror Glaze Boat Polish

·         Meguiar's - #50 Boat Cleaner/Polish

·         Meguiar's No. 9 Swirl Remover

·         Menzerna Final Polish,

4.       Protect It

The final step is to protect the finish with a wax. The sun's UV rays will quickly ruin your topsides without a good wax to protect it. Protecting the finish is crucial if you hope to minimize the need to perform steps 2 and 3 in the future. A good coat of wax protects the gloss of your paint or Gelcoat by sealing the surface against dirt and preventing oxidation from degrading the finish. Most premium waxes are formulated with carnauba, an extremely hard wax grown in South America. Despite what the names of some products seem to indicate, none is “pure” carnauba. Without some form of softeners, carnauba is too hard to be spread onto a surface. Premium waxes combine carnauba with polymers that form a chemical bond between the wax and paint or Gelcoat for added durability.

Whether to use liquid or paste formula wax is a matter of personal preference. Liquids are generally easier to apply, just pour it out and wipe it on. Paste formulas require a bit more rubbing, but you will often end up using less so a can of wax can often last longer and therefore cost less than liquids.

Most protectants are applied by hand. Apply a thin even layer and use a light, but definite pressure. After the wax dries to a white haze, the surface is buffed. A buffer with a lamb's wool buffing pad does the best job. Use only light pressure and tip the machine slightly as you cover each area.

The wax will add depth and shine to the paint, and even more durability. After applying, do not let it sit more than 5 minutes before removing, it is tough after more than that. Two thin coats are much better than one thick coat, and apply it with a side-to-side motion instead of circular to prevent swirls. Also, pre-dampen your applicator pad before waxing. If you do get some streak marks, go over the surface with a damp cloth and then buff it up.

Application in direct sunlight is not a good practice, but sometimes it is unavoidable. This is extremely critical with natural paste waxes; use these only on an overcast, cool day so the solvents do not evaporate before you have time to spread out a thin, even coat. When applied in direct sunlight, the solvents evaporate faster than you are able to spread the wax, leaving a thick glob in one area and virtually nothing in another. When buffed you get shiny and dull areas or streaking. If you must apply in sunlight, work in a small 2’ x 2’ square area, dab it on, rub in quickly, buff off and continue, overlapping the edges.

Wax will bake on a surface that is too hot when applied and will streak. A hot surface causes rapid evaporation of the wax and causes it to bond to paint leaving nasty streak marks. When this happens, wash with soap to remove the streaks and reapply the wax in those areas.

You do not need to power buff the wax in. Why? The polish is what makes the paint shine and the wax simply protects and lubricates it. You do not need to buff it into the paint. Use a small clean white terry cloth towel, about 4 inches square that has been slightly moistened and wrung out. Apply the wax in random circles. If you are using a high quality non-abrasive wax, you should see little or no color rubbing off on the applicator rag. In addition, you do not need to apply tons of wax, as a very thin coat will protect it just fine. Remember, you need to wax the boat every two months, thus putting on a lot of wax can lead to build up. In fact, there should be almost very little wax residue visible after the initial application. There is no need to let the wax develop a chalky texture. If you used the proper amount of wax there will not be a lot of removal work to do.

Once you have finished with the basic wax, it is time to move on to the final wax - pure carnauba. Note that many waxes state they contain carnauba wax, and that is fine. Usually it is a mix of carnauba and some other waxes. However, what you want is "pure 100% carnauba", nothing else. Be forewarned, it is expensive stuff, but worth every penny. The paint should be as smooth as a baby's bottom and have a deep glow now. Carnauba works better than anything else does at making water bead up on the surface. It simply will not stick to the paint, as the carnauba somehow reduces surface tension to zero.

Products that could be used are:

·         3M Marine - Ultra Performance Wax

·         Meguiar's - Mirror Glaze Boat/RV Pure Wax

·         Boat Armor - Carnauba Paste Boat Wax

·         BoatLIFE - Fiberglass Lifewax

·         Collinite's - Fleetwax Paste

·         Trewax's Four Seasons

·         Mother's - Pure Carnauba Wax

What wax should you use?

 Carnauba waxes vs. synthetic (polymer) waxes

Both types of products have advantages and disadvantages. Before you decide on a wax here are some things to consider:

Carnauba Waxes:

Advantages:

·         A darker, deeper, richer shine.

·         Best carnauba waxes produce a liquid, "wet-looking" surface.

·         Carnauba waxes tend to hide minor swirls.

·         Carnauba waxes bead water (tells user when to re-wax surface).

Disadvantages:

·         Limited durability (Carnauba starts to melt at 180 degrees F). 50% gone in 30 days, 75% gone in 60 days,   re-wax in 90 days.

·         Some carnauba waxes are hard to apply. (Require more effort to buff off).

·         Some carnauba waxes create chalky- white residues and stain trim moldings.

·         Low surface adhesion - can be removed by boat washes and detergents.

·         More prone to water spots.

·         Can cloud and/or streak on dark color boat.

·         Can be difficult to apply by machine.

Polymer Waxes:

Advantages:

·         Longer lasting. (Most will last six months or longer)

·         Easy to apply.

·         Very bright shine.

·         Some synthetic waxes sheet water that reduces water spots.

·         Stronger surface adhesion resists detergents.

Disadvantages:

·         Bright shine is often referred to as sterile, lacking emotion. (it does not allow the paints true pigment to show through)

·         Tends to high light or amplify minor swirls and paint imperfections.

·         Sheeting does not give a visual clue of when to recoat.

·         Some products have long cure times between coats.