R Aft Cabin

Dinette

Saloon

Engines

Fore Deck

Jump to Companionway

Aft Guest Cabin - The aft guest cabin was the best area on the boat. There were water stains and damage but the overall condition was fair. The cabin was used to store all the cushions for the deck furniture. Some of the bunk planking was missing and exposed the bottom framing and hull. The floor covering had previously been torn out.

Everything that was not fastened down was removed. Next came the initial cleaning and then a detailed inspection.

Aft Guest Cabin - All of the plumbing, wiring and cabling from the Helm Station and electronics ran down behind the clothes closet in the aft guest cabin. Access to the cabling and wiring was needed in order to overhaul the gauges and switches at the helm station. First, the back wall of the closet was unscrewed and removed revealing the wiring.

In order to present a clean neat appearance, any unused brackets, screws, plumbing or wiring was removed. Any protruding screws were cut off.

Abandoned screw holes were plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

The wire and plumbing runs were hanging either loose or randomly clumped together into bundles and secured with cable ties of varied sizes and types. The old cable ties, clamps, mounts and fasteners were removed. The loose wiring was segregated by voltage and type and then the plumbing and wire were neatly dressed with nylon cable clamps. The clamps were fastened using #8 - ¾" pan head stainless steel screws.

Aft Guest Cabin - At some point in time, someone had cut holes in the outside of the closet walls to install a telephone, a 7" audio speaker and volume control switch and manual air conditioning thermostat. Since these items were out-dated or not working, the decision was made to remove them.

Using a saber and copping saws new ¾" mahogany fillers were cut and fitted to the openings. The new woodwork was then secured in place using West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with West System 404 high-density filler and tinted with 1 drop of mahogany coloring agent. Wood stain will not penetrate epoxy given this fact after the new wood was fitted flush, the rounded end of a popsicle stick was run along the seam of the plug to create a slight depression. This would be filled later with mahogany wood filler that will accept stain.

Per the USCC publication NVIC 7-95 abandoned screw holes were counter bored and mahogany bungs with the grains aligned used to plug the holes. The new bungs were secured in place with Titebond II general-purpose wood glue.

The object on the wall next to the closet is the housing cover for the gyro-transmitter connected to the Bendix auto-pilot.

Aft Guest Cabin - The open deck seams and loose deck fittings caused rainwater to leak down into the sub decking and cabins below. The leaking rainwater caused the wood to rot and develop mold and mildew on the walls and overhead.

The inside wall in the aft guest cabin was made-up of two sections. The old bungs around the outer edges were drilled out using a 3/8" Forstner bit. The screws around the outer edges were then removed and the wall assemblies removed. The forward section was in good condition, while the aft section was in the late stage of deterioration. The plywood backer board was completely delaminated. In order to gain access to one of the rotting main frames a 1' vertical section of the aft transverse wall was cut away. The cut was made along the natural seam created by the edge of the mirror that was fastened to the wall.

Aft Guest Cabin - The teak deck just aft of Amidships on the port side had a very noticeable dip or sag. A thorough inspection revealed that three of the overhead deck beams in the aft cabin either were hanging free or were not fastened to the main hull frames correctly.

The inspection revealed that the tops of some of the hull frames and corresponding ends of some of the deck beam-ends were rotting. The rot was the result rain water leaking down through open deck seams and loose stanchion bases.

To properly repair the bad hull frames or deck beams the decision was made to use a �simple scarf joint� technique to repair the bad hull frames and deck beams. Each bad hull frame and deck beam was cut back to solid good wood with a reciprocating saw. Next, an 8:1 scarfe was cut in the remaining good wood. Following that, a cardboard template was made that conformed to the shape of the hull or sub-deck where the new wood would be attached. New hull frame and deck beam members were cut from 1 �� * 6� planks. Then new hull frames and deck beams were then cut with the same 8:1 diagonal cut. The two pieces were then buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that were thickened with West System 404 high-density filler. While the epoxy was still wet the two pieces were clamped together and then fastened with #8 - 2 1/2" silicon bronze screws. After the scarf joint had cured, a small bottle jack was used to raise the repaired deck beam. A long straight edge was run fore and aft across all the deck beams to insure that the repaired deck beams were correctly aligned. With the deck beams aligned, the repaired deck beams and corresponding frames were reattached with new stainless steel carriage bolts with washers and lock nuts.

New mahogany seam-battens were cut and fitted horizontal into the cutouts in the main frames. Next vertical filler blocks were cut and fitted vertically in between the horizontal seam-battens. Finally, new 7/8" mahogany planks were cut and fitted to the hull framing. The new planks were cut to fit snug along their length. The hull planks were fastened to the main and intermediate frames with #12 - 2 1/2" and 2" silicon-bronze screws.

Aft Guest Cabin - With the walls removed, Per the USCC publication NVIC 7-95 abandoned screw holes were counter-bored then plugged with mahogany bungs with the grains aligned. The new bungs were held in place with Titebond II general-purpose wood glue.

Over the years and owners, many different types of stains, colors, tints, sealers and varnishes had been used on the boat. The net effect was that the exposed mahogany woodwork did not have a uniform color, texture or finish. The decision was made to try to achieve a level of consistency. In order to achieve a uniform look the decision was made to strip, sand, stain and refinish all the wood.

The woodwork was first painted with multiple applications of Strypeeze paint and varnish remover followed by hand scraping to remove the accumulated old finish.

Any nicks, dings, scratches or blemishes were repaired using Famowood mahogany wood filler. With the surface repaired, the wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

The woodwork was painted with the grain with Interlux - #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel. After the stain had dried for 24 hours it was rubbed down with a Green (Medium) 3M Scotch-Brite Pad.

Using a 1/8" nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush the woodwork was rolled and tipped with six applications of Interlux - #95 - Goldspar Varnish. Before the last coat was applied, the previous coats were block sanded with 220-grit sandpaper and then everything was vacuumed and wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

The unexposed areas of the wall framing were originally painted with gray bilge paint. A new coat of Interlux - #863 - Bilgekote Gray was applied to freshen-up the look. The wall assembly contained a small open, recessed storage pocket. The backer-board for the pocket was delaminating around the outer edges, which meant it was the next item due for replacement. First, the length and width of a replacement panel was cut from 1/4" Luan and dry fitted.

The wood was painted with three applications of West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. The epoxy was applied with a foam roller and then tipped off with a brush to remove any bubbles. When applied, the diluted mixture soaks into the wood, where the epoxy cures and the solvent evaporates. The process dramatically slows the migration of moisture, but does not act as a "water-proofer." After each application had dried for 24 hours, it was lightly sanded with 120-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer were rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After each coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

The new backer board was fastened to the wall frame with #6 - 1" stainless steal screws.

Aft Guest Cabin ~ Portlights - The portlights were leaking. In removing the Aluminum portlights, it was interesting to find that the some of the portlights had been bedded and sealed with an assorted mixture of window glazing compound, polysulfide and 3M-5200. It appeared that each layer of goop was applied on top of the previous layer. It was obviously a poor way of sealing the Aluminum portlight to the hull and flashing. Additionally, over the years, and owners, the type and size of fasteners that were used on the portlights had evolved so that very little was common or standardized. The portlights showed years of accumulated paint and corrosion. The decision was made to strip and refinish them.

The old portlight gasket material was removed. A high-speed wire wheel was used to clean the accumulated paint and corrosion from the portlight bolts, nuts, washers and dogs. The front and backsides of the portlights including the aluminum portlight dogs were sprayed with two coats of Rust-Oleum Red Primer. After drying overnight, they were again sprayed with two coats of Rust-Oleum Gloss White Appliance Spray Paint. The bolts, nuts and the inside of the dogs were painted with Never-Seez grease. New gasket was then fitted and secured with contact cement.

Aft Guest Cabin ~ Portlights - The portlight inserts that were previously made were painted with two coats of Interlux - Dark Blue.

The two coats of paint were rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the inserts were vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Aft Guest Cabin - First, a replacement panel was cut from 1/4" Luan and dry fitted.

The wood was painted with three applications of West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. The epoxy was applied with a foam roller and then tipped off with a brush to remove any bubbles. When applied, the diluted mixture soaks into the wood, where the epoxy cures and the solvent evaporates. The process dramatically slows the migration of moisture, but does not act as a "water-proofer." After each application had dried for 24 hours, it was lightly sanded with 120-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

The panel was fastened in place using #16 - 1” brass escutcheon pins. The opening for the portlights was then cutout with a jig saw.

The outside fiberglass portlight insert was heavily coated with 3M-4200 and then inserted into the opening. The insert was then fastened to the hull planking with #8 - 1" stainless steel screws.

The backside of the portlight was heavily coated with 3M-4200 and the portlight inserted into the opening. The portlight was then fastened in place using #14 - 2" stainless steel oval head screws. The screws were lightly screwed in. The following day the screws were tightened down.

Aft Guest Cabin - An examination of the white paint that covered some of the walls showed that there could easily be forty years of built-up paint. The woodwork was painted with multiple applications of Strypeeze paint and varnish remover followed by hand scraping to remove the accumulated the old finish.

Any nicks, dings, scratches or blemishes were repaired using Famowood mahogany wood filler. With the surface repaired, the wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer were rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After each coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

New mahogany molding was cut to the standard Chris*Craft size of 1/4" x 1". With the wood rough cut, the molding was dry fitted and pre-drilled for fastening. One edge of the wood was rounded-over with a 1/2" round-over bit. A Dremmel contour sander was used to smooth the rounded edge of the new molding. The front face was faired using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

All of the hardware was soaked in full strength ammonia for a week in order to loosen all of the old paint, stain, varnish and green patina. The parts were then scrubbed with a stiff bristle nylon brush and rinsed clean. The mechanical parts were sprayed with WD40 to lubricate and protect them. All of the hardware was then reinstalled using same size and types of fasteners.

Aft Guest Cabin ~ Ceiling Boards - Before Chris-Craft began installing headliners they originally installed mahogany ceiling moldings on the outboard edge of the open deck beam ceiling of the below deck cabins. Their objective was to provide a clean look and screen the view of the bolts, nuts and backer plate hardware that secured the many deck stanchions and cleats. Sometime in the past, these skirt boards had been removed in most of the cabins. The decision was made to reinstall overhead moldings wherever they were missing.

Using the few ceiling moldings that were still onboard as a model, new 3� x �� mahogany moldings were cut. The edges were then rounded over with a �� round-over bit. With the slats cut to length, the wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

The wood was painted with the grain with Interlux - #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel. After the stain had dried for 24 hours it was rubbed down with a Green (Medium) 3M Scotch-Brite Pad.

Using a 1/8" nap foam roller and a 3" foam brush the woodwork was rolled and tipped with six applications of Interlux - #95 - Goldspar Varnish. Before the last coat was applied, the previous coats were block sanded with 220-grit sandpaper then vacuumed and wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Aft Guest Cabin ~ Ceiling Boards - The overhead outboard ceiling edge molding was fastened to the exposed deck beams using #6 - 1� oval head screws and finish washers. The slats were positioned with 1� spacing in between the two slats and away from the out board edge.

With the help of the Internet, original Kirsch 7000 series Window Treatment Roding Hardware was acquired from auctions.

The hardware was soaked in full strength ammonia for a week in order to loosen the old paint, stain, varnish and green patina. The parts were then scrubbed with a nylon brush and rinsed clean and then installed.

Aft Guest Cabin ~ Storage Draws - The horizontal draw tracks that guided the under bunk drawers and their vertical supports were damaged, poorly repaired or broken. No two pieces of track or support were alike.

The decision was made to replace the old draw tracks and supports. As before, various types and sizes of fasteners had been used the old track and supports. Measuring different pieces from the forward cabin, owners cabin and the aft guest cabin as guides new mahogany draw tracks and their supports were cut. The new tracks and supports were then fitted straight and boat level and fastened in place using new #8 1 1/2" stainless steel screws.

In order to present a clean neat appearance, any unused brackets, screws, plumbing or wiring was removed. Any protruding screws were cut off.

Aft Guest Cabin ~ Storage Draws - In order to present a clean appearance the under bunk storage draws were repaired and refinished.

The inside and outside of the draws were sanded with 120-grit paper. After vacuuming the insides and outsides were finished with Minwax Wood Finish � Fruitwood 241.

New nylon draw guides were installed with stainless steel screws on the back of the draws.

Aft Guest Cabin ~ Bed Boards - The original bed boards were all nicked, dinged, and covered with years of accumulated paint. The decision was made to refinish them.

Aft Guest Cabin ~ Bed Boards - Any nicks, dings, scratches or blemishes were repaired using Famowood mahogany wood filler. With the surface repaired, the wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer were rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After each coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Aft Guest Cabin ~ Shaft log - The starboard shaft log was leaking around the frame that it was fastened to. In order to repair the framing the log needed to be removed. The decision was made to replace the two logs with drip-less shaft seals. The surveyor that had surveyed the boat, recommended shaft seals from Tide Marine. Work began by cutting through three ribs. This completely exposed the shaft logs and made for an easier removal.

Aft Guest Cabin ~ Shaft log - Next, the couplings connecting the transmissions and shafts was disconnected and the shafts removed. The shaft logs were held in place with through bolts coming up from the bottom of the hull and held in place with lock washers and nuts. With the nuts and bolts removed the shaft logs were simply lifted up and removed. The bolts were then taped out through the bottom. The bolt -holes were then plugged with hardwood dowels that were secured in place using West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with West System 404 high-density filler.

The wood was painted with three applications of West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. The epoxy was applied with a foam roller and then tipped off with a brush to remove any bubbles. When applied, the diluted mixture soaks into the wood, where the epoxy cures and the solvent evaporates. The process dramatically slows the migration of moisture, but does not act as a "water-proofer." After each application had dried for 24 hours, it was lightly sanded with 120-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

Aft Guest Cabin ~ Shaft log - The installation of the drip-less seals began by enlarging and elongating the holes in the bottom hull planks to accept a 2 �" id. fiberglass tube. The 1 �" shafts were then reinstalled through the struts and fiberglass tubes and reattached to the transmissions. Next, the fiberglass tubes were shimmed on the inside at each end so that there was an equal amount of clearance around the shafts. The paint around the hull openings on the bottom and inside in the bilge was ground off for 1" around the holes. Multiple applications of fiberglass matt and West System 105 / 205 epoxy were then used to secure and seal the fiberglass tubes to the inner and outer hull. After the epoxy had thoroughly cured, the drip-less seals were then adjusted to the shafts and tubes in accordance with the directions from Tide Marine.

Aft Guest Cabin ~ Cabin lights - The original Chris-Craft installed bulkhead-mounted DC cabin lights had been removed by some previous owner. This left the cabin without any DC lighting. The decision was made to reinstall lighting that is as close to the original lights as possible.

Searching the Internet turned-up a set of thirty-year-old, Ward Electric tear-drop lights that were very close to what Chris-Craft had originally installed. A close examination of the wiring revealed that it was chafed and frayed in places. The old wiring was removed and each fixture was rewired with new, marine grade wire.

Aft Guest Cabin ~ Cabin lights - When the original light fixtures were removed, the accompanying wiring was also removed. New 14 gauges multiple strand marine wire was installed back to the service panel. New mahogany wire cover molding was then milled and mounted. Last, the replacement fixtures were installed back in their original locations.

Aft Guest Cabin ~ Wet bar plumbing - The drain for the wet bar was constructed using a 1/2" ID garden hose while the water supply was a crimped 1/8" ID copper tubing line. Neither of which were secured. The decision was made that it needed to be replaced and upgraded and then secured.

Aft Guest Cabin ~ Wet bar plumbing - The fresh water plumbing and drain hose was removed. The fresh water supply was replumed using PEX polyethylene tubing. All of the connections were made using QEST compression fittings. The old 1/2" drain line was replaced with new 3/4" clear tubing made-up with two hose barbed elbows and then secured to the overhead.

Companionway

Aft Companionway - Over the years and owners, many different types of stains, colors, tints, sealers and varnishes had been used on the boat. The net effect was that the exposed mahogany woodwork did not have a uniform color, texture or finish. The decision was made to try to achieve a level of consistency. In order to achieve a uniform look the decision was made to strip, sand, stain and refinish all the wood.

The woodwork was first painted with multiple applications of Strypeeze paint and varnish remover followed by hand scraping to remove the accumulated old finish.

Per the USCC publication NVIC 7-95 abandoned screw holes were plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

Aft Companionway - The woodwork was first painted with multiple applications of Strypeeze paint and varnish remover followed by hand scraping to remove the accumulated old finish.

Aft Companionway - Any nicks, dings, scratches or blemishes were repaired using Famowood mahogany wood filler. With the surface repaired, the wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

Aft Companionway - The stairs (ladder) leading form the companionway up into the saloon were in very poor condition. Like so many other things on the boat, the process of cleaning and refinishing the companionway steps turned out to be much more involved than first expected.

The mahogany Luan on the sides of the steps was torn and damaged.

It was discovered that over the decades many different types of floor covering was used on the companionway steps. The underside of the bottom step hid what seemed to be hundreds of abandoned fasteners. There were - Eyelet Studs, Button Studs, Twist Studs, Bottom Studs, and all manner of tacks and staples. Likewise, numerous tacks were driven into the top of the bottom step. It was as if all of the previous owners of the boat were saying we are not going to make this easy.

With nippers, dikes, cats-paws and various size screwdrivers, all of the old fasteners were removed.

Aft Companionway - New mahogany Luan was installed where necessary. The new wood was fastened using #16 - 3/4� brass escutcheon pins.

Any nicks, dings, scratches or blemishes were repaired using Famowood mahogany wood filler. With the surface repaired, the wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

Aft Companionway - Removing the molding revealed an interesting and eclectic mixture of different types, sizes, and lengths of the surface mounted fasteners used to fasten the doors and moldings in the companionway. There was no consistency or uniformity in size or type or length whatsoever. There were silicon bronze, stainless steel and brass screws. There were flat-head, oval and pan-head screws. They came in slotted, Reed & Prince, Philips and square-drive and even some stainless ring nails. The screw sizes included #6, 8, and 10.

Most of the fasteners were surface mounted, meaning that the wood was once counter-bored, then fastened, and then the screw hole plugged and finished. The screw heads in half of the fasteners were striped. The screws were removed with three different types of screw extractors and small needle-nose vice grips. It was found that larger and longer screws were used and the hole left open.

Per the USCC publication NVIC 7-95 abandoned screw holes were plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

Aft Companionway - The woodwork was first painted with multiple applications of Strypeeze paint and varnish remover followed by hand scraping to remove the accumulated old finish.

Any nicks, dings, scratches or blemishes were repaired using Famowood mahogany wood filler. With the surface repaired, the wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

Aft Companionway - The woodwork was painted with the grain with Interlux - #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel. After the stain had dried for 24 hours it was rubbed down with a Green (Medium) 3M Scotch-Brite Pad.

Using a 1/8" nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush the woodwork was rolled and tipped with six applications of Interlux - #95 - Goldspar Varnish. Before the last coat was applied, the previous coats were block sanded with 220-grit sandpaper and then everything was vacuumed and wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Aft Companionway - All of the hardware was soaked in full strength ammonia for a week in order to loosen all of the old paint, stain, varnish and green patina. The parts were then scrubbed with a stiff bristle nylon brush and rinsed clean. The mechanical parts were sprayed with WD40 to lubricate and protect them. All of the hardware was then reinstalled using same size and types of fasteners.