R Aft Deck

Fore Deck

Controls

Wet Bar

Forward Head

Forward Cabin

Stern

Lazarette

Galley

Start

Lower Hull

Upper Hull

Deckhouse

Wheelhouse

Aft Deck

Dinette

Aft deck - The canvas on the aft deck was completely gone. The intense Southwestern Florida weather had taken its toll. The deck was being used as a general storage area. Some of the hand rails were missing from the port side at the stern.

Everything that was not fastened down was removed. Next came the initial cleaning and then a detailed inspection.

Aft deck - Independence and other model like her were not designed to have a covered aft deck. In order to use their boats during periods of rain or intense sun and heat many of the owners of these ‘Cruiser’ models had wooden extended hardtops manufactured for their boats while others had canvas tops fitted over stainless steel pipe frames. Independence was outfitted by some previous owner with the canvas option.

After measuring twice and cutting once, new Sunbrella canvas was installed over and around the aft deck. The 1/2" teak aft deck was cleared of all the furniture and 'stuff' that had been accumulating. The deck was then cleaned and scrubbed. The dunnage storage box that was on the Starboard bow was moved to the Stern.

Aft deck - As part of the work of the "leak patrol", it became time to repair the leaking deck hatch. A thorough inspection revealed that the leaking was caused by water running down the insides of the old gasket that the hatch rested on and coming out through screw heads in the bottom of the hatch frame. First, the teak hatch was removed and then disassembled from its bronze frame.

Abandoned screw holes were re-drilled and then plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

Over the years and owners, many different types of stains, colors, tints, sealers and varnishes had been used on the boat. The net effect was that the exposed woodwork did not have a uniform color, texture or finish. The choice was made to try to achieve a level of consistency. In order to achieve a uniform look the decision was made to strip, sand, stain and refinish all the wood.

The woodwork was first painted with multiple applications of Strypeeze paint and varnish remover followed by hand scraping to remove the accumulated old finish.

Any nicks, dings, scratches or blemishes were repaired using Famowood mahogany wood filler. With the surface repaired, the wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

The woodwork was painted with the grain with Interlux – #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel.

Using a 1/8" nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush the woodwork was rolled and tipped with six applications of Interlux - #95 - Goldspar Varnish. Before the last coat was applied, the previous coats were block sanded with 220-grit sandpaper and then everything was vacuumed and wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Aft deck - In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer were rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After each coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

After that, 3M-4200 sealant was applied to the bronze hatch frame and the inside of the hatch. Last, new #8 - ¾" stainless steal screws were used to fasten the hatch to the frame. Bob Bothumof LPX Sales & Service supplied the new hatch gasket.

Aft deck - When the boat was first built the aft deck was closed off from the wheelhouse by the use of a canvas curtain. The curtain was fastened to the end of the wheelhouse roof and then secured to the aft deck by attaching bungee cords to ring pulls that were secured into the aft deck. Over the years the canvas curtain were removed and the entire aft deck enclose with canvas, however the ring pulls remained in the deck.

Aft deck - As part of the cleaning and repair of the aft deck the lift rings were removed. The cavities in the deck were then squared of using a hand chisel. Next, 1/2" teak inserts were cut to snugly fit the openings. The teak inserts and the cavities in the deck were then painted with polyurethane Gorilla Glue and the teak inserts secured to the deck with #8 silicon bronze screws.

The counter-bored holes were then plugged with teak bungs with the grains aligned. The new bungs were dipped in West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the bungs were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

Aft deck - Over the years and owners abandoned screw holes had developed.

The counter-bored holes were plugged with teak bungs with the grains aligned. The new bungs were dipped in West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the bungs were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

Aft deck - The deck seams were reefed of all the old caulking using a laminate trimmer and a 1/8" straight cutting bit set to a depth of 3/16". A ‘guide board’ was used to keep the laminate trimmer moving in a straight line and there by reduce the chance of cutting more than the seam. The areas that the laminate trimmer would not reach were reefed using a Dermal tool fitter with a 1/8" general-purpose cutting bit. Other areas were reefed using a pocketknife. After the seams were opened a small, stainless steel bristle, parts cleaning brush was run through the seams in order to remove any burrs, dings, etc. and to generally smooth out the edges of the seams. The reefed seams were then taped on both sides with 1" masking tape. The tape was laid down just touching the opening of the seam. Next, using a toothbrush, the inside seams was scrubbed with acetone in order to remove any teak oil. The seams were then injected with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner. 3M-4200 was then injected into the seam using a caulking gun. The new compound was pushed down into the seams using the flat of a tongue depressor. The tape was immediately removed and the newly sealed joint allowed to set up and dry for a week before finishing with a very light hand sanding.

Aft deck - The deck was sealed and finished with two applications of Star brite’s – Natural Light, Tropical teak Oil Sealer.

Aft deck extended hardtop - Independence was outfitted by a previous owner with canvas over the aft deck. This meant that approximately every five years the canvas would have worn enough that it needed to be replaced. Give this, the decision was made to replace the canvas and supporting pipe frame with a wooden extended hardtop.

The frames used to support the wheelhouse roof were sawn mahogany 1 ½” thick, 2 3/4” high, 128” wide and set on 14 ½” centers. All of those frames were cut with a top and bottom arc starting with a 2 ¾” center and decreasing to a 1 ½” at the outside edge. A ¼” plywood template was cut that matched the existing wheelhouse roof frames. Six - 2" * 6" * 11' mahogany planks were ordered. One side of each plank was cut with a ½” rabbit while the other edge was cut with a ½” tongue. The planks were then glued together using West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with West System 404 high-density filler. This created a blank 11' wide, 1 3/4" thick and 30" long. The reason for creating the large blank was to reduce waste when cutting the individual frames. After the glue had dried, any seams that were slightly open were filled with straight West System 105 / 205 epoxy.

Aft deck extended hardtop - The template for the new framing was laid out on the blank and ten new framing members were cut using a circular saw. The rough-cut frames were then clamped together for finishing. With the frames clamped together, a power plane was then used to ever-out the top and bottom arc so that each frame looked like the other.

Aft deck extended hardtop - Three - 3/4” * 6" * 12' mahogany planks were used to make-up the two sills and aprons of the hardtop. One of the boards was cut down the middle of its length producing two boards ¾” * 3” * 12’ these would become the aprons under the sills. The inside and outside of one edge of the apron boards was rounded over using a ¼” round-over bit. This produced a clean ‘bull nose’ effect. The sill planks and the apron boards were married-up and marked every 12” in order to make cuts for biscuits. Number 20 biscuit cuts were made 3/8” in from the outside edge of the sill planks. The same cuts were made in the center of the apron boards. The top edge of the apron boards were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with West System 404 high-density filler. Then the sill and apron boards were clamped together. Last the apron was fastened to the sill with #8 1½” stainless steel screws.

Aft deck extended hardtop - The cut frames were laid-out on 14 ½” centers resting on top of the sill planks at each side. The frames were then fastened to the sill using #8 1½” stainless steel screws.

Aft deck extended hardtop - The roof was made-up of three courses of 1/4” plywood. The second and third course of plywood was laid-out so that none of the seams lined-up with the previous course.

Aft deck extended hardtop - Each course was glued to the previous course and then screwed down into the frames using #8 - 1½” stainless steel screws. The screws were spaced every 6” across the plywood. The seams were filled and sealed with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with West System 404 high-density filler.

Aft deck extended hardtop - In order to provide a smooth surface for the fiberglass mat to wrap around from the roof to the side apron, the void between the edge of the roof and the sill and apron was filled with strips of Polystyrene (the pink stuff) insulation. A power plane was used to fair and round over the outside edge of the roofline and to blend it into the Polystyrene insulation. The gaps, seams and voids were then filled with a fairing compound of West System 105 / 205 epoxy thickened with System Three - Phenolic Microballoons. After the fairing compound had dried, it was smoothed out using 120-grit sandpaper.

Aft deck extended hardtop - The glassing process began by first cutting the three sheets of 8oz. fiberglass cloth that would be used to cover the hardtop and side apron. The first sheet of glass was laid out and smoothed. Next, multiple batches of West System 105 / 205 epoxy was poured onto the fiberglass.

Aft deck extended hardtop - Using a plastic spreader the epoxy mix was spread out evenly over the glass. Last, the epoxy was worked through the fiberglass cloth with a standard line roller. The process was repeated for the remaining two sheets.

Aft deck extended hardtop - After the epoxy had kicked and while it was still tacky, a skim coating of fairing compound made up of West System 105 / 205 epoxy thickened with System Three - Phenolic Microballoons was applied with a plastic spreader.

Aft deck extended hardtop - After the fairing compound had dried, the top was smoothed out using 120-grit sandpaper.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer were rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After each coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Aft deck extended hardtop - The process of attaching the extended hardtop to the original roof began by first removing the old wing-door framing, then cutting off the excess original roof along the last frame.

Aft deck extended hardtop - With the help of a yard crane, the new top was lifted in place and lined-up with the original roofline. Large “C” clamps were then used to hold the old and new roof together.

Aft deck extended hardtop - Using a 20’ aluminum straight edge the fore and aft pitch and side-to-side alignment of the roofline establish. With everything lined-up, the old and new roof was permanently joined together with 10 - ¼” x 4 ½” carriage bolts. The original 1 ½” bronze roof stanchions were then turned around and moved aft and used to support the weight of the extended top. The joint seam of the old and new roof was then filled with West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The seam was then closed by cutting the three strips of 8oz. fiberglass cloth. The fiberglass cloth was cut at 3, 6 and 9” widths and laid one on top of the other and glued in place with West System 105 / 205 epoxy. After the epoxy had kicked and while it was still tacky, a fairing compound was applied made up of West System 105 / 205 epoxy thickened with System Three - Phenolic Microballoons. After the fairing compound had dried, it was smoothed using 120-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer were rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After each coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Aft deck - Independence had two leaks from artificially cut seams where the teak and plywood sub decking of the foredeck meet-up with the teak and plywood subdeck of the aft deck. (Normally the joints would rest on frames - these joints did not.) The seams were hidden by the sill and framing of the wing doors on the aft deck. The removal of the wing doors as part of the installation of the extended hardtop provided the opportunity to repair the two leaks.

Aft deck - First, the teak decking was taken up on both sides of the cut seams.

Abandoned screw holes were re-drilled and then plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

The sub decking was then sanded with 60-grit sandpaper. The seams were the original and newer sub decking meet were then filled with caulking cotton that was saturated with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with West System 404 high-density filler. The underside of the subdeck seams had previously been covered with a seam battens. The subdeck was then heavily wetted-out with West System 105 / 205 epoxy. Next, 6oz fiberglass cloth was laid out and smoothed along the seams. After that, West System 105 / 205 epoxy was poured onto the fiberglass. The epoxy was worked into the fiberglass cloth with a standard line roller.

Aft deck - New, ½” x 1 3/4” teak decking was then purchased from A ¼” x 1/16” rabbit was cut on what would become the top outside edges of the new decking. (When the boards are in place the rabbit joints will make a combined 1/8” joint.) Each of the teak decking strips was then buttered on the bottom with 3M-4200 sealant. The new decking was counter-bored to ¼” and then fastened to the subdeck and framing with #8 - 1 ½” stainless steel screws.

The counter-bored holes were plugged with teak bungs with the grains aligned. The new bungs were dipped in West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the bungs were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

The open teak seams were then taped on both sides with 1” tape. Next, using a toothbrush, the inside seams was scrubbed with acetone in order to remove any teak oil. 3M-4200 sealant was used to fill the open seam. The straight end of a tongue depressor was run along the filled seam to push the sealent down inside and create a clean looking joint. Last, the rounded end of a tongue depressor was run along the seam to create a slight depression. The tape was immediately removed and the newly sealed joints were allowed to cure for a week before finishing with a very light hand sanding with 120-grit sandpaper.

Aft deck ~ Hand rails - Most of the ends of the mahogany handrail where the lift gate hinges and latches attached were rotting. The hardware was fastened with an eclectic mixture of fasteners with no consistency of size, type or length. Some fasteners were missing, some were bent and some were only held in place by years of built-up varnish. The overall look was poor.

Aft deck ~ Hand rails - Work began by removing the handrails and all of the hardware attached to them. This revealed that many of the screw hole cavities were rotting. In addition, there were many abandoned screw holes on the underside of the handrails. All the holes were filled with antifreeze in order to kill the rot spoors. After drying for a week, they were filled again.

Abandoned screw holes were re-drilled and then plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

The handrail ends were all cut off. New mahogany handrail stock was custom milled by

Aft deck ~ Hardware - The bronze eight bronze stanchions and all the hardware for the railings was striped, cleaned and delivered to for replating.

Removing all of the railing hardware for replating revealed an eclectic assortment of fasteners. When the hardware was reinstalled #8, 1", oval Philips head stainless screws were used when securing the hardware to the handrails. #10 x 24 x 1 3/4" machine screws were used to secure the fittings to stanchions, etc. All the machine screws were secured with SS washers and Acorn nuts.

Aft deck ~ Wing door - Over the years and owners, many different types of stains, colors, tints, sealers and varnishes had been used on the boat. The net effect was that the exposed woodwork did not have a uniform color, texture or finish. The choice was made to try to achieve a level of consistency. In order to achieve a uniform look the decision was made to strip, sand, stain and refinish all the wood.

Any nicks, dings, scratches or blemishes were repaired using Famowood mahogany wood filler. With the surface repaired, the wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

The woodwork was painted with the grain with Interlux – #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel.

The wood was sealed with three applications of West System 105 / 207 epoxy. (The 207 hardener dries to a clear finish.) The first coat was thinned 100% by volume. The viscosity of the second coat was thinned 50%. The last coat was not thinned at all. The epoxy was thinned with lacquer thinner and rolled on with a foam 1/8� foam nap roller and tipped with a foam brush to remove any bubbles. This process allowed the epoxy to slowly seep-into and seal the wood. After drying, the hardened epoxy was smoothed using 220-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

Using a 1/8" nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush the woodwork was rolled and tipped with six applications of Interlux - #95 - Goldspar Varnish. Before the last coat was applied, the previous coats were block sanded with 220-grit sandpaper and then everything was vacuumed and wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Aft deck ~ Wing door - The old wing doors were showing their age and the ravage of time and weather.

The decision was made to use the old doors as a pattern and to manufacture new mahogany doors. The stiles and rails were cut from 7/8” stock and fastened using #20 biscuits and West System 105 / 205 epoxy.

The wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish. After sanding, the woodwork was stained using Interlux – #573 - C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off with a cotton towel.

The wood was sealed with three applications of West System 105 / 207 epoxy. (The 207 hardener dries to a clear finish.) The first coat was thinned 100% by volume. The viscosity of the second coat was thinned 50%. The last coat was not thinned at all. The epoxy was thinned with lacquer thinner and rolled on with a foam 1/8� foam nap roller and tipped with a foam brush to remove any bubbles. This process allowed the epoxy to slowly seep-into and seal the wood. After drying, the hardened epoxy was smoothed using 220-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

Aft deck ~ Wing doors - Using a 1/8" nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush the woodwork was rolled and tipped with six applications of Interlux - #95 - Goldspar Varnish. Before the last coat was applied, the previous coats were block sanded with 220-grit sandpaper and then everything was vacuumed and wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

The old wing doors were then rehung. New stainless steel piano hinges, locksets and door hooks were installed. The old and rotting door sill was replaced with a new teak sill plate.

Aft deck ~ Wing door - New 1" teak kick plates were cut and installed and then capped with 1/8" anodized aluminum corner molding.

Aft deck ~ Lazarette Hatch - The two hatches that provided access to the Lazarette were trimmed with stainless steel strips around the top outside edges. Additionally, a piano hinges for the hatches were screwed onto the top of the teak deck. The seams on the port side hatch never quit lined-up. After studying other boats of the same general size and year it was determined that at some point the hatch construction was altered.

Aft deck ~ Lazarette Hatch - The two lazarette hatch as originally designed and constructed by Chris-Craft were joined together with a common piano hinge. This allowed for both hatches to be removed together and give complete access to the tankage in the lazarette. The hatch construction never had a center framing member that the hatches were secured to.

Aft deck ~ Lazarette Hatch - The decision was made to remove the center framing member and the inside water runoff gutter framing.

The forward and aft edges of the teak decking was cut away to allow for a new teak border.

Abandoned screw holes were re-drilled and then plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

The ends of the teak decking were counter-bored and refastened with new #8 - 1" screws.

The counter-bored holes were plugged with teak bungs with the grains aligned. The new bungs were dipped in West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the bungs were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

Aft deck ~ Lazarette Hatch - The border of the hatch opening for the lazarette was framed on all sides using 1/2" x 2" teak.

Aft deck ~ Lazarette Hatch - Using the old hatches as a model the new replacement hatches were framed using mahogany and then covered with 3/4" marine plywood.

In order to help seal the new wood the inside of the hatches were painted with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner.

Aft deck ~ Lazarette Hatch - New, ½” x 1 3/4” teak decking was then purchased from A ¼” x 1/16” rabbit was cut on what would become the top outside edges of the new decking. (When the boards are in place the rabbit joints will make a combined 1/8” joint.)

The top of the new hatches were outlined on three sides with teak molding. The inboard edge of the hatches were framed with 1/2" teak for the center King Plank.

The subdeck and the teak decking strips were then heavily wetted-out with West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The new teak decking was counter-bored to ¼” and then fastened to the plywood subdeck and framing with #8 - 1" stainless steel screws.

Aft deck ~ Lazarette Hatch - The seams were taped on both sides with 1" masking tape. The tape was laid down just touching the opening of the seam. Next, using a toothbrush, the inside seams was scrubbed with acetone in order to remove any teak oil. The seams were then injected with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner. 3M-4200 was then injected into the seam using a caulking gun. The new compound was pushed down into the seams using the flat of a tongue depressor. The tape was immediately removed and the newly sealed joint allowed to set up and dry for a week before finishing with a very light hand sanding.

Aft deck ~ Lazarette Hatch - In preparation for installing the stainless steel piano hinge on the new hatches it was found that the screws for securing the hinge would need to fit in between the the seam of the teak planks and the plywood sub deck.

In order to provide a more secure fastening 1/2" holes were drilled along the seam where the screws would go and then the holes were plugged with 1" hardwood dowels.

Aft deck ~ Lazarette Hatch - New inside water runoff gutter framing was cut and installed.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer were rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After each coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

New NOS hatch pulls were then installed.

Aft deck ~ Transom Repair - In preparation for installing a new aft deck enclosure the teak toe rail across the end of the aft deck at the transom was removed. This revealed a gap between the end of the teak decking and the transom board of between 1/16" - 1/4" wide and 1/2" deep. The gap allowed fresh water to leak down into the Lazarette below. The decision was made to seal the gap and in turn stop the leaking.

The gap was first cleaned out using small hand picks and a high pressure air gun. With the gap clean and dry caulking cotton was saturated with West System 105 / 205 epoxy then stuffed down into the gap with a tongue depressor. Exposed screws were removed and the abandoned screw holes were re-drilled and then plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

The end of the teak deck and transom board top were then sanded flat and smooth. The gap seam was then taped and the gap filled with 3M-4200. A putty knife was run across the top of the caulking compound to help press it down into the gap and smooth out the top of the caulk.

The abandoned screw holes were counter-bored and new #10 - 1 1/2" stainless screws installed. The screw holes were then capped with bungs that were coated with polyurethane Gorilla Glue.

Aft deck ~ Transom Repair - The design called for the enclosure to be secured in an upper and lower track with the bottoms fastened with zippers.

The new track was fastened to the transom with # 6 stainless screws, fastened on 4� centers.

A new 5/8" x 7/8" teak toe rail was cut and secured to the inside of the track.

Aft deck ~ Enclosure - With the hardtop installed, the decision was made to have Costa Marine Canvas and Enclosures Inc. manufacture and install a enclosure around the aft deck.

Costa designed the Vinyl and Clear Glass enclosure to fit into their rigid PVC Costa Track�. The track were fastened to the outside of the cap rails with # 6 stainless screws and fastened on 4� centers.

The decision was made to use Stamoid^� Marine composite fabric. It is a premium PVC coated polyester fabric with a special coating formula that gives it unrivalled advantages and performances. The product offers 100% waterproof; dimensional stability; easy maintenance; exceptional flexibility; high mold resistance; high UV resistance; incomparable durability.

The clear vinyl zip up windows was manufactured using Sea-Flex .040 gauge vinyl.

Aft deck ~ Enclosure - The enclosures were installed in the upper and lower tracks. The bottom of the enclosures are fitted with zippers making for an easy install and providing some tension. Each of the side panels was constructed with a zippered roll-up window and vinyl straps at the top to secure it in place when open. In order to reduce flapping of the enclosure during windy days or when underway each panel was fitted with three Velcro straps that secured the enclosure to the hand rails.

Aft deck ~ Enclosure - The enclosures was fitted inside the skirt boards of the aft deck roof which eliminated any rain water intrusion. The snug fit and attention to details produced a clean look and soft flow.

Aft deck ~ Headliner - With the aft deck enclosure installed the decision was made to install the headliner.

Backer boards were first installed along the centerline of the overhead that would be used to secure the dome lights.

A 1/2" hole was drilled along the centerline in each roof beam for the new 14-2 marine safety duplex wiring that was being installed for the new dome lights.

The decision was made to use Nautolex - bright white, no foam backing, perforated vinyl marine headliner. The vinyl is a tough, durable stain resistant material.. The decision was also taken to hold the new headliner in place with monel staples.

Installing a suspended headliner is a job that requires a great deal of patience. A local person with years of experience in installing marine headliners was asked to cut, fit and install the new headliner. The work started at the stern and proceeded forward.

High / Low intensity lights were then connected and fastened to the backer boards under the headliner.

With the new headliner installed mahogany molding was cut to the standard Chris-Craft size of 1/4" x 1".

The wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish. After sanding, the woodwork was stained using Interlux – #573 - C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off with a cotton towel.

Using a 1/8" nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush the woodwork was rolled and tipped with six applications of Interlux - #95 - Goldspar Varnish. Before the last coat was applied, the previous coats were block sanded with 220-grit sandpaper and then everything was vacuumed and wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

The finished molding was installed using a 1' screw pattern and secured with #6 - �� stainless steel screws and finish washers.