 |
Saloon |  |
Aft Cabin | |
Aft Head | |
Owners Cabin | |
Owners Head | |
Engines | |
Fore Deck | |
 |
Dinette - The outside
wall and dinette table had been removed. The upper and
lower shelves had also been removed. The two portlights were also
missing.
The open deck seams and loose deck fittings caused rainwater to leak
down into the sub decking and cabins below. There were water stains on the cushions and
floor. The second generation floor covering that had been laid on
top of the original was pealing off. Everything that was not fastened down was removed. Next came the initial cleaning and then a detailed inspection. |
|
Dinette ~ Storage locker - The
inspection revealed that the floor in the storage locker below
the dinette floor had been partially cut out for some reason
that was not obvious during the inspection. It was also discovered that the outboard edge of the aft dinette flooring was sagging approximately 2" below boat-level. |
 |
 |
Dinette ~ Storage
locker
- The storage
locker, aft dinette seat framing and two-thirds of the flooring
was removed. It was found that the ledger boards that were designed to support the flooring and aft dinette seat were rotting and provided little to no structural support. |
| Dinette ~ Storage locker - The framing for the aft bench seat was weak and in need of repair. Duck tape was used to pull the framing back into square, then the framing was re-glued, clamped and refastened. |
 |
 |
Dinette ~ Storage locker - First, a new fore and aft ledger board was installed to support the dinette floor. A new 3/4" plywood floor was then cut, fitted and secured in place using #8 - 1 1/2" stainless steel screws on a 6" screw pattern. Next, the aft bench seat framing was fitted, reinstalled and secured to the aft dinette bulkhead and flooring. |
|
Dinette ~ Storage
locker
- A new
storage locker was cut from 3/4" plywood just as the original
was. The locker was secured on all four sides using #8 1 1/2"
stainless steel screws on a 6" screw
pattern. New aluminum sliding door tracks were installed on the inside of the aft bench seat framing. New Luan doors were cut and drilled out with 1" finger grab holes. The sliding doors were painted with the grain with Interlux – #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel. Using a 1/8" nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush the woodwork was rolled and tipped with six applications of Interlux - #95 - Goldspar Varnish. Before the last coat was applied, the previous coats were block sanded with 220-grit sandpaper and then everything was vacuumed and wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner. |
 |
 |
Dinette ~ Portlights
-
The portlights were leaking. In removing the
Aluminum portlights, it was
interesting to find that the some of the portlights had been
bedded and sealed with an assorted mixture of window glazing
compound, polysulfide and 3M-5200. It appeared that each layer
of goop was applied on top of the previous layer. It was
obviously a poor way of sealing the portlight to the hull and
flashing. Additionally, over the years, and owners, the type and
size of fasteners that were used on the portlights had evolved
so that very little was common or standardized. The
Aluminum portlights
showed years of accumulated paint and corrosion. The decision
was made to strip and refinish them. The old portlight gasket material was removed. A high-speed wire wheel was used to clean the accumulated paint and corrosion from the portlight bolts, nuts, washers and dogs. The front and backsides of the portlights including the aluminum portlight dogs were sprayed with two coats of Rust-Oleum Red Primer. After drying overnight, they were again sprayed with two coats of Rust-Oleum Gloss White Appliance Spray Paint. The bolts, nuts and the inside of the dogs were painted with Never-Seez grease. New gasket was then fitted and secured with contact cement. The backside of the portlight was heavily coated with 3M-4200 and the portlight inserted into the opening. The portlight was then fastened in place using #14 - 2" stainless steel oval head screws. The screws were lightly screwed in. The following day the screws were tightened down. |
|
Dinette ~ Portlights
- The portlight
inserts that were previously made were painted with two coats of
Interlux - Dark Blue. The two coats of paint were rolled and tipped using a 1/8” nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the inserts were vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner. |
 |
 |
Dinette - A new outer
wall replacement panel for the dinette was a was cut from 1/4"
Luan and dry fitted. The panel was fastened in place using #16 - 1” brass escutcheon pins. The opening for the portlights was then cutout with a jig saw. Two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer were rolled and tipped using a 1/8” nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After each coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then rolled and tipped using a 1/8” nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner. The outside fiberglass portlight insert was heavily coated with 3M-4200 and then inserted into the opening. The insert was then fastened to the hull with #8 - 1" stainless steel screws. The backside of the portlight was heavily coated with 3M-4200 and the portlight inserted into the opening. The portlight was then fastened in place using #14 - 2" stainless steel oval head screws. The screws were lightly screwed in. The following day the screws were tightened down. |
| Dinette - Two new
electrical outlets were then installed. The two mahogany
shelves were installed next.
Over the years and
owners, many different types of stains, colors, tints, sealers
and varnishes had been used on the showing mahogany woodwork.
The net effect was that the exposed mahogany woodwork did not have a
uniform color, texture or finish. The choice was made to try to
achieve a level of consistency. In order to achieve a uniform
look the decision was made to strip, sand, stain and refinish
all the wood. |
 |
 |
Dinette ~ Seat Back Cushions - The two seat backs in the dinette were sitting on top of the seats cushions. The look was awkward and did not seem correct. Research indicated that the original dinette seat backs were mounted on the fore and aft bulkheads and not resting on the seat cushions. |
| Dinette ~ Seat Back Cushions - Examining the seat backs showed two large holes drilled through the original ¾” plywood, confirming that some sort of hardware was used to secure the seat backs to the bulkhead. |
 |
 |
Dinette ~ Seat Back Cushions - The research revealed that Chris Craft used two brass hooks to support and hold the seat back in place. As the result of extensive inquiries and searching, four Brass OEM - ABW (Attwood Brass Works) #805 seat back hooks were acquired, they measured correctly at - 1 3/4" wide, 1 5/16" tall and are 1" deep. |
| Dinette ~ Seat Back Cushions - Using an original Chris Craft brochures and marketing photographs as a guide the seat back hooks were positioned, leveled and fastened to the bulkheads with ¾” stainless steel screws. |
 |
 |
Dinette ~ Seat Back Cushions - The holes in the seat backs were fitted over the hooks and slipped down into place. |
