Saloon Aft Cabin Aft Head Owners Cabin Owners Head Engines   Fore Deck 
Controls Wet Bar Forward Head Forward Cabin Stern Lazarette   Galley 
Start Lower Hull Upper Hull Deckhouse Wheelhouse Aft Deck Dinette
Dinette Dinette - The outside wall and dinette table had been removed.   The upper and lower shelves had also been removed. The two portlights were also missing. The open deck seams and loose deck fittings caused rainwater to leak down into the sub decking and cabins below. There were water stains on the cushions and floor. The second generation floor covering that had been laid on top of the original was pealing off.

 Everything that was not fastened down was removed. Next came the initial cleaning and then a detailed inspection.
Dinette ~ Storage locker - The inspection revealed that the floor in the storage locker below the dinette floor had been partially cut out for some reason that was not obvious during the inspection.

It was also discovered that the outboard edge of the aft dinette flooring was sagging approximately 2" below boat-level.

 		 Dinette
Dinette Dinette ~ Storage locker - The storage locker, aft dinette seat framing and two-thirds of the flooring was removed.

It was found that the ledger boards that were designed to support the flooring and aft dinette seat were rotting and provided little to no structural support.


 
Dinette ~ Storage locker - The framing for the aft bench seat was weak and in need of repair. Duck tape was used to pull the framing back into square, then the framing was reglued, clamped and refastened. Dinette
Dinette Dinette ~ Storage locker - First, a new fore and aft ledger board was installed to support the dinette floor. A new 3/4" plywood floor was then cut, fitted and secured in place using a 6" screw pattern. Next, the aft bench seat framing was fitted, reinstalled and secured to the aft dinette bulkhead and flooring.
Dinette ~ Storage locker - A new storage locker was cut from 3/4" plywood just as the original was. The locker was secured on all four sides using a 6" screw pattern.

New aluminum sliding door tracks were installed on the inside of the aft bench seat framing. New Luan doors were cut and drilled out with 1" finger grab holes.

The sliding doors were painted with the grain with Interlux – #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel.

Using a 1/8" nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush the woodwork was rolled and tipped with six applications of Interlux - #95 - Goldspar Varnish. Before the last coat was applied, the previous coats were block sanded with 220-grit sandpaper and then everything was vacuumed and wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.
 		 Dinette
Dinette portlight Dinette ~ Portlights - The portlights were leaking. In removing the portlights, it was interesting to find that the some of the portlights had been bedded and sealed with an assorted mixture of window glazing compound, polysulfide and 3M-5200. It appeared that each layer of goop was applied on top of the previous layer. It was obviously a poor way of sealing the portlight to the hull and flashing. Additionally, over the years, and owners, the type and size of fasteners that were used on the portlights had evolved so that very little was common or standardized. The portlights showed years of accumulated paint and corrosion. The decision was made to strip and refinish them.

The old portlight gasket material was removed. A high-speed wire wheel was used to clean the accumulated paint and corrosion from the portlight bolts, nuts, washers and dogs. The front and backsides of the portlights including the aluminum portlight dogs were sprayed with two coats of Rust-Oleum Red Primer. After drying overnight, they were again sprayed with two coats of Rust-Oleum Gloss White Appliance Spray Paint. The bolts, nuts and the inside of the dogs were painted with Never-Seez grease. New gasket was then fitted and secured with contact cement.

The backside of the portlight was heavily coated with 3M-4200 and the portlight inserted into the opening. The portlight was then screwed back in place using 2" stainless steel screws. Sixteen screws hold the portlight next to the seal. The new and standardized screws were lightly screwed into the holes and given a couple turns. It is important to let the caulking cure for a day before tightening the portlight to the boat, and so, the following day the screws were tightened down.
Dinette portlight Dinette ~ Portlights - The portlight inserts that were previously made were painted with two coats of Interlux - Dark Blue.

 The two coats of paint were rolled and tipped using a 1/8” nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the inserts were vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.
Dinette - A new outer wall replacement panel for the dinette was a was cut from 1/4" Luan and dry fitted.

The panel was fastened in place using #16 - 1” brass escutcheon pins. The opening for the portlights was then cutout with a jig saw.

 Two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer were rolled and tipped using a 1/8” nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After each coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then rolled and tipped using a 1/8” nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

 The outside fiberglass portlight insert was heavily coated with 3M-4200 and then inserted into the opening. The insert was then fastened to the hull with #8 - 1" stainless steel screws.
The backside of the portlight was heavily coated with 3M-4200 and the portlight inserted into the opening of the insert. The refinished portlights were then screwed back in place using #14 - 1 1/2" stainless steal screws.		 Dinette
Dinette - Two new electrical outlets were then installed.  The two mahogany shelves were installed next.

Over the years and owners, many different types of stains, colors, tints, sealers and varnishes had been used on the showing mahogany woodwork. The net effect was that the exposed woodwork did not have a uniform color, texture or finish. The choice was made to try to achieve a level of consistency. In order to achieve a uniform look the decision was made to strip, sand, stain and refinish all the wood. The woodwork was first painted with multiple applications of Strypeeze paint and varnish remover followed by hand scraping to remove the accumulated old finish. After stripping, any nicks, dings, scratches or blemishes were repaired using Famowood mahogany wood filler.  With the old finish removed and the surface repaired the wood was faired with 120-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

The woodwork was painted with the grain with Interlux – #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel.

Using a 1/8" nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush the woodwork was rolled and tipped with six applications of Interlux - #95 - Goldspar Varnish. Before the last coat was applied, the previous coats were block sanded with 220-grit sandpaper and then everything was vacuumed and wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

 The old chipped laminate table top  was removed using a heat gun. 

The wood was covered with Almond laminate. Almond was chosen as a neutral contrasting color to the White and mahogany. The mastic was rolled on the wood and laminate and allowed to set-up. Dowels were laid down and the laminate laid on top. The dowels were then removed one at a time and the laminate pressed down with a "J" roller. The edges of the laminate were trimmed using a laminate trimmer with a flush-cutting bit.

 Dinette