R Engines

Engine compartment ~ Engines - When the mechanical water temperature ‘sending unit’s were removed from the engines, as part of the overhaul of the Controls Station the open cavities on the engines were temporally plugged with small corks. The water temperature sender unit for the port engine snapped off of its capillary tubing as it was being removed. A thorough inspection revealed that the fitting was rusted through and probably original to the boat. The decision was made to replace the two temperature gauges. The old gauges were replaced with new Stewart Warner mechanical gauges and senders.

The capillary tubing that connected the water temperature gauge and the sending unit was secured directly and indirectly to the saloon floor framing with an assortment of fastening devices, such as, Cushion clamps, Cable clamps, Cable ties and Split looms. All of the fasteners were of different size, type and color. The tubing was woven into and out of, different wire bundles with some bundles attached to other bundles with cable ties.

Engine compartment ~ Generator - The original Onan 12 kW diesel generator was completely inoperative. Two different attempts by two different mechanic / electricians declared it shot. The old engine and generator was disassembled and removed piece by piece.

Engine compartment ~ Generator - A new smaller, lighter and quieter Northern Light 12 kW diesel generator was then installed.

Engine compartment ~ Starboard Engine - The starboard engine started smoking during the trip from Florida to New Jersey.

After arriving in New Jersey many different companies and mechanics were interviewed about repairing the problem. The decision was made to have the engine inspected, diagnosed and tested by Engines Incorporated from Atlantic City.

Engine compartment ~ Starboard Engine - The inspection and testing and endoscope examination showed that the problem was with the "Left" (inboard) head. The head was carefully removed and visually inspected. The visible inspection revealed that there were at least two burnt valves. The head was then taken to the shop for further inspection and repair.

Engine compartment ~ Starboard Engine - All of the valves and valve guides were replaced and the outside and inside of the head cleaned.

Engine compartment ~ Starboard Engine - In preparation for installation the top of the block was cleaned with emery paper and break cleaning spray.

Engine compartment ~ Starboard Engine - As part of the reassembly process the old fuel lines were replace; all the valves were adjusted using a feeler-gauge and the injectors adjusted using a dial-indicator; the injector rack on both sides set and idle reset.

See trials showed that the engine was operating at a top end RPM of 2,350, which is just slightly above the original specification for the engine.

Electrical service - The previous owner had rewired the boat and upgraded the system to 12/32 volt DC. A new custom made service panel was installed in the Saloon. All of the cabins were equipped with 110-volt AC outlets. Dockside power is supplied from a 50-amp 220-volt AC shore cable service.

Fresh water system - The fresh water control system with it's copper and galvanized pipe along with old and leaking gate valves was showing its age. The decision was made to replace the fresh water manifold. Additionally, all of the fresh water plumbing was removed throughout the boat including the original 125 gallon fresh water tank in the lazarette.

Fresh water system - The hull framing was covered with the original pressboard insulation that was crumbling and in general poor condition.

All of the installation was removed and the frames, seam battens and planks were scraped and vacuumed. Even though it would not be seen all the planking, seam battens and frames were cleaned with a mixture of water, TSP and bleach.

Fresh water system - In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer was applied using a 3” - 1/8” nap foam roller. After drying, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then painted with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Fresh water system - A new inside wall was cut from Luan panels and secured to the main frames with #6 stainless steel screws and finish washers.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer was applied using a 3” - 1/8” nap foam roller. After drying, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then painted with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Fresh water system - All of the old copper water lines were replaced with PEX 5/8� OD - 1/2' ID semi rigid Polyethylene tubing rated to 160 PSI at 73 F and secured with QEST compression fittings.

A new fresh water manifold was designed to provide regulated pressurized hot and cold water from either the port or starboard dockside supply or from the on-board fresh water tank. The hot and cold supply lines run along the center line of the boat so they use less tubing and fittings than the original layout.

A new custom built 125 gal. freshwater tank was installed in the lazarette that could also be filled from the fresh water manifold. The new manifold included a new 2 gal. Jabsco pneumatic accumulator tank. Apollo, ball valves were used instead of the older style gate valve to control water distribution.

The old 12 gallon hot water tank was rusted and visually questionable. It was replaced with a new Seaward - 18 gallon hot water tank. The new tank was insolated from the wooden deck with dri-deck flooring.

Engine compartment - All of the through-hull fittings were inspected and cleaned. Every seacock valve was replaced throughout the boat. In all case a new Apollo, ball valves was used instead of the older style gate valve.

There were no raw water strainers for the engines other than the bronze scoop strainer on the bottom. Two new Perko raw water strainers were installed to help guard against contaminates getting to the engines.

Engine compartment ~ Battery chargers - There was no 12-volt DC battery charger on board. A new Pro Mariner, 3 bank, 12 volt DC, 40 amp battery charger was then installed.

The old Raritan Crown, 32-volt, serial number 7, battery charger stopped charging. Testing all the circuits and fuses showed power coming in and nothing going out, and so the decision was easily made to repair or replace it. Fortunately, the boat yard that works on the Independence had an old used working charger in the back room.

Testing the newer charger revealed that it was not working properly either.

After many telephone calls and letters to the Raritan Co. in New Jersey it was discovered that there was a cash of old 32-volt parts at their facility in Florida. Telephone calls to Florida confirmed that there were 32-volt battery charger parts “stored up in the attic.”

Working with a great electrician and an old schematic of the 32-volt battery charger and the people at Raritan in Florida replacement parts were identified, discovered.

The installation process began by first thoroughly bench testing the replacement parts in the charger. After testing, the outer case of the charger was wire brushed and then spray painted with three coats of Gray Rust-oleum. Installation of the replacement charger began by disconnecting the wiring to the old charger. Next, the old charger was removed from the bulkhead wall. The old pressboard insulating on the bulkhead was falling off in chunks so the decision was made to remove all of it. The new charger was reposition next to and in line with the 12-volt charger and fastened to the bulkhead wall. The 110-volt feed lines and the 32-volt distribution lines were then tied into the replacement charger. After the initial battery charging the charger settled into a continuous 3-amp., 34-volt trickle charge.

The battery chargers are located on the forward bulkhead in the engine compartment.

Engine compartment ~ Flooring - The four ship-service and four engine-starting batteries needed to be replaced. This provided the opportunity to inspect the flooring and beams that supported the over eight-hundred pounds of lead acid batteries.

The battery boxes rest on flooring that is supported by beams that are secured at one end to the outboard engine stringer and the other end fastened to the main and intermediate hull frames. The flooring also runs aft along the outboard side of the engines as well. Removing the batteries and battery boxes revealed that the flooring and the supporting beams were in poor condition and in need of repair.

The inner plywood bottom, planking, inner chine, inboard and outboard engine stringers, main and intermediate frames and bilge area were cleaned of all the accumulated dirt, grease, grime and oil. The floor beams that supported the starboard battery boxes were straightened and refastened to the hull frames with #8 - 3” silicon bronze screws.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer was applied using a 3” - 1/8” nap foam roller. After drying, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then painted with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Engine compartment ~ Flooring - Two - ¾” x 10” x 10’ boards were cut-down to size. The boards were then painted with three applications of West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. The epoxy was applied with a foam roller and then tipped off with a brush to remove any bubbles. This process allowed the epoxy to slowly seep into and seal the wood. After each application had dried for 24 hours, it was sanded with 120-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer was applied using a 3” - 1/8” nap foam roller. After drying, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then painted with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Engine compartment - Forward bulkhead ~ The forward bulkhead on the starboard side of the engine compartment was covered with old pressboard insulation that was crumbling and in general poor visual condition.

The decision was made to cover the starboard bulkhead with 1/2" plywood in order to provide a clean stable mounting surface. Two boards were cut to size.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer was applied using a 3” - 1/8” nap foam roller. After drying, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then painted with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Engine compartment - Forward bulkhead ~ In preparation for relocating the eventual relocation of the diesel fuel manifold and filters the Raritan Crown, 32-volt and Pro Mariner 12-volt battery charger were mover to the outboard starboard side of the forward engine room bulkhead.

Because the 21-volt charger was moved further away from its original position - new, primary wire and 110-volt service wiring needed to be installed. This entailed running new #8 primary wires from the 12-volt charger to the battery selector switches and ground. New 14 gauges multiple strand marine wire was installed back to the service panel from the 12-volt charger.

Engine compartment - Floor hatch & Battery Box ~ In order to have access to the relocated batteries on the starboard side, an access hatch was cut in the forward part of the saloon floor on the starboard side. The hatch size and location was laid-out and cut to be the same as the original floor hatch that Chris-Craft originally built and installed on the port side of the saloon floor.

With the forward bulkhead repaired and the battery chargers repositioned the rebuilt battery box were positioned in their new location and the 8-volt, 8D batteries reinstalled.

Engine compartment ~ Saloon floor - The floor in the Saloon had a very noticeable and uneven sag. It was difficult to determine how and where the floor framing was or should be connected to the hull framing because of covering boards and wire bundles under the outer portions of the floor framing. Visits to other Chris-Craft boats of similar size and year to Independence showed that Chris-Craft construction approach for it’s large cruisers was to fasten an outboard deck stringers to the main frames and then rest the saloon floor framing on top of the deck stringers.

Deconstruction began by un-securing the 220, 110, 32 and 12 volt wiring that was fastened to the bottom of the saloon floor framing and covering boards. Next, the covering boards were removed. This revealed the existence of a long abandoned, after market, air duck secured to the bottom of the saloon floor framing and sitting next to the original deck stringers. The stringers were found to be rotting and pulled away from the mainframes. This meant that the Saloon floor was only being supported by it’s attachment to the forward and aft bulkhead walls, a span of 12’.

The repair work began by cutting away the remnants of the old stringers and then laying out a fore and aft string lines along the top of the outboard edge of the saloon floor. This revealed the true nature and location of the sagging.

Next, new 2” x 4” x 12’ deck stringers were positioned under the outboard edges of the saloon floor framing. Large wooden wedges were then cut and screwed into the main frames. Small, Two ton hydraulic bottle jacks were positioned on top of the wedges and under the new deck stringers at 4’ intervals. Slow and even jacking then repositioned the outboard edge of the saloon floor and framing back to it’s original position. The new deck stringers were then secured to the main frames with 4” stainless steel screws.

The frames, seam battens and planks were scraped and vacuumed. Even though it would not be seen all the inside planking, seam battens and frames were cleaned with a mixture of water, TSP and bleach.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer was applied using a 3” - 1/8” nap foam roller. After drying, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then painted with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

The wire and plumbing runs were hanging either loose or randomly clumped together into bundles and clamped together with cable ties of varied sizes and types. In order to present a clean neat appearance, any unused brackets, screws, plumbing or wiring were removed. Any protruding screws were cut off. Abandoned screw holes were re-drilled and then plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that were thickened with West System 404 high-density filler and then driven into the screw holes. The old cable ties, clamps, mounts and fasteners were removed. The loose wiring was segregated by voltage and type and then the plumbing and wire were neatly dressed with nylon cable clamps. The clamps were fastened using #8 – ½” pan head stainless steel screws.

Bilge Blower - Removing the wall in the saloon as part of the re-supporting and re-leveling the salon floor reveled several things that need attention. Most notable was that the bilge blowers were installed in the wrong location. They were mounted behind the saloon walls and not in the engine room. (see top left) Additional inspection reveled that there was no ductwork and exhaust vent for the starboard bilge blower in effect the starboard blower though working was useless. Additionally, the ductwork on the port side was dry rotted (see bottom left). It was also discovered that the inner or insulating walls in the saloon was missing as well. The inner wall helps to stop fumes and gases from rising up into the saloon and channels them to the louvered vents on the side of the hull. The decision was taken to build new mahogany ductwork, then move the two blowers, and correctly install them in the engine compartment.

Bilge Blower ~ Ductwork - Using the dry-rotted remnants of the port side ductwork as a pattern two new mahogany vents were constructed. The two new chases were made up from 3/4" mahogany and covered with a Luan skin. Repeated searching on eBay turned up the correct type and size Bronze hull vent that would be used on the starboard side hull. The Bronze vents were bedded with 3M 4200 and secured in place with stainless steel screws.

Bilge Blower ~ Ductwork - Nylon screening was cut and installed over the inside of the vent opening and stapled it in place with Monel staples. The new air chases were then fastened to the hull framing with stainless steel screws and the bilge blowers attached.

Saloon Outer Wall - With the bilge blowers and new vents installed and tested new outer walls were installed. The outer walls were cut from Luan panels and secured with #6 3/4" stainless steel screws and finish washers. The seams were sealed with 3M 4200.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer was applied using a 3” - 1/8” nap foam roller. After drying, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then painted with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Engine compartment ~ Air Compressor - With the original Buell 31” & 36” chimed air horns rechromed and reinstalled on the roof of the wheelhouse the decision was made to replace the Craftsman’s 110-Volt air compressor with the correct sized 12-Volt air horn compressor. (The horns could only operate when the generator was running and supplying power to the 110-volt compressor.)

The good people at Buell were very helpful in supplying detailed information on what was needed to make the switch. A new high capacity air compressor and accumulator tank were installed on the aft wall in the engine room. Next, thirty feet of new high pressure flexible tubing was installed between the compressor and the helm station. A 12-volt solenoid was then installed on the under-side of the wheelhouse roof. A hole was then drilled in the helm station and a new push button installed.

New 14 gauges multiple strand marine wire was installed back to the service panel from the solenoid to the push button. Likewise new wiring was run from the compressor to the electrical service panel. The new wiring was then tagged and neatly dressed with �� plastic cable clamps.

Engine compartment ~ Fuel manifold - The duel Racor 1000MA fuel filters / water separators and the fuel distribution manifold was showing its age with four of the six old gate valves weeping fuel oil and the condition of the fuel distribution system was writer-up during the boat�s last survey. Consequently, the insurance company required that at the least the old gate valves needed to be replaced.

Engine compartment ~ Fuel manifold - The design of the function, size and appearance of the new manifold was worked out. With the design established six Apollo ball valves and an assortment of Bronze and Brass fittings were purchased.

Engine compartment ~ Fuel manifold - The supply and suction parts of the new manifold were assembled. All of the male fittings were wrapped with four wraps of Teflon tape before the new manifold was assembled.

Engine compartment ~ Fuel manifold - A piece of 3/4" stock was sized, cut and smoothed with 120-grit paper.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux � Pre-Kote White primer was applied using a 3� - 1/8� nap foam roller. After drying, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then painted with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

In preparation for mounting, the supply and suction sides of the new manifold were secured with cable-ties to mounting blocks.

Engine compartment ~ Fuel manifold - The replacement fuel manifold was then mounted on the forward bulkhead in the engine compartment next to the battery charger.

Engine compartment ~ Fuel manifold - The old fuel filters were disassembled and the parts cleaned of accumulated rust, fuel oil and grime and then power wire-brushed with a grinder.

All the Racor fuel filter parts that were originally painted White were spray-painted with three coats of Rust-oleum Maroon primer. After drying, the parts were finished with three coats of Rust-oleum White appliance epoxy.

Engine compartment ~ Fuel manifold - With the fuel manifold in place and the Racor parts repainted and assembled the fuel filters were mounted in their new location next to the fuel manifold. The brackets securing the filters were assembled with a combination of lock washers and nuts. The male bushing and elbow fittings were wrapped with four wraps of Teflon tape before being fitted to the filter canisters.

Engine compartment ~ Fuel manifold - The existing diesel fuel feed and return lines were disassembled and neatly redressed on 13� centers. Over forty plus years, a number of abandoned and broken hose and wire clamps and screws had accumulated on the stringers in the engine compartment, all were removed producing a cleaner and neater look.

New, type A1 U.S.C.G. and ABYC approver �� diesel fuel lines extensions were installed. All the fittings were secured with 2 worm screw stainless steel, marine grade fastener.

Saloon ~ Fuel manifold - vacuum gauges - Vacuum gauges were never part of the old diesel fuel manifold which meant that changing the fuel filters was done by guess work such as engine hours, elapse time, etc.

In order to make reading the new gauges as easy as possible the decision was made to mount the new gauges in the starboard side saloon closet that also housed the fresh water manifold. A 7/8" mahogany block was cut and the edges rounded-over. A hole saw was then used to cut the opening for the new gauges. The gauge block was then mounted on the backer board of the fresh water manifold.

Saloon ~ Fuel manifold - vacuum gauges - The new mahogany block was first faired with 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish. After sanding, the woodwork was painted with the grain with Interlux � #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50%. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel.

Using a 1/8" nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush the woodwork was rolled and tipped with six applications of Interlux - #95 - Goldspar Varnish. Before the last coat was applied, the previous coats were block sanded with 220-grit sandpaper and then everything was vacuumed and wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

New 1/4" ID fuel lines lines were run to the new fuel manifold and then connected to the new gauges. The project was completed by fastening the gauge the the finished gauge block.