R Forward Cabin

Forward Guest Cabin - The open deck seams and loose deck fittings caused rainwater to leak down into the sub decking and cabin below. The leaking rainwater caused the wood to rot and develop mold and mildew on the walls and overhead.

The portlight was leaking as was the overhead hatch. The bunks, drawers, closet, and shelves were full of years of accumulated stuff and dirt. The forward cabin appeared to be the general storage area for the boat. There was obvious leaking into the rope locker from a rot hole in the port bow.

Forward Guest Cabin - Everything that was not bolted down was removed. Next came the initial cleaning and then a detailed inspection.

The non-working, decades old Yacht Air Corp. - Comfort System air conditioner unit was first remove. The AC unit supplied cool air to both the Forward Guest Cabin and the Galley and Dinette. The shelving, bunks and outer wall were then removed.

Forward Guest Cabin - The top of the outer wall panels were delaminating. The decision was made to replace the panels with new Luan.

In order to present a clean neat appearance, any unused brackets, screws, plumbing or wiring was removed. Any protruding screws were cut off. The exposed hull planking and framing were inspected and found to be dirty but sound. The hull frames, seam battens and planks were scraped and vacuumed. Even though it would not be seen all the inside planking, seam battens and hull frames were cleaned with a mixture of water, TSP (Tri-sodium-phosphate) and bleach.

Abandoned screw holes were plugged with toothpicks. The toothpicks were coated with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then taped into the screw holes. Later the ends of the toothpicks were broken off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

The hull frames, seam battens and inside hull planking were painted with Interlux #863 - Bilge-kote Gray.

The length and width of a replacement panel was cut from 1/4" Luan and dry fitted.

The outboard side of the wood was painted with three applications of West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. The epoxy was applied with a foam roller and then tipped off with a brush to remove any bubbles. When applied, the diluted mixture soaks into the wood, where the epoxy cures and the solvent evaporates. The process dramatically slows the migration of moisture, but does not act as a "water-proofer." After each application had dried for 24 hours, it was lightly sanded with 120-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

The new panels was tacked in place and the portlight opening was drawn on the outside of the panel. A jigsaw was used to cut out the opening for the portlight.

The panel was then fastened to the main hull frames using #16 - 1� brass escutcheon pins.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer were rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After each coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Forward Guest Cabin ~ Portlight -The portlight was leaking. In removing the Aluminum portlights, it was interesting to find that the some of the portlights had been bedded and sealed with an assorted mixture of window glazing compound, polysulfide and 3M-5200. It appeared that each layer of goop was applied on top of the previous layer. It was obviously a poor way of sealing the portlight to the hull and flashing. Additionally, over the years, and owners, the type and size of fasteners that were used on the portlights had evolved so that very little was common or standardized. The Aluminum portlights showed years of accumulated paint and corrosion. The decision was made to strip and refinish them.

The old portlight gasket material was removed. A high-speed wire wheel was used to clean the accumulated paint and corrosion from the portlight bolts, nuts, washers and dogs. The front and backsides of the portlights including the aluminum portlight dogs were sprayed with two coats of Rust-Oleum Red Primer. After drying overnight, they were again sprayed with two coats of Rust-Oleum Gloss White Appliance Spray Paint. The bolts, nuts and the inside of the dogs were painted with Never-Seez grease. New gasket was then fitted and secured with contact cement.

The backside of the portlight was heavily coated with 3M-4200 and the portlight inserted into the opening. The portlight was then fastened in place using #14 - 2" stainless steel oval head screws. The screws were lightly screwed in. The following day the screws were tightened down.

Forward Guest Cabin ~ Upper Storage Locker - Somewhere in time the original perforated pressed wood backer-board inside the upper bunk storage locker was removed . The decision was made to overhaul the locker and install a replacement panel.

In order to present a clean neat appearance, any unused brackets, screws, plumbing or wiring was removed. Any protruding screws were cut off. The exposed hull planking and framing were inspected and found to be dirty but sound. The hull frames, seam battens and planks were scraped and vacuumed. Even though it would not be seen all the inside planking, seam battens and hull frames were cleaned with a mixture of water, TSP (Tri-sodium-phosphate) and bleach.

Abandoned screw holes were plugged with toothpicks. The toothpicks were coated with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then taped into the screw holes. Later the ends of the toothpicks were broken off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

The hull frames, seam battens and inside hull planking were painted with Interlux #863 - Bilge-kote Gray.

Forward Guest Cabin ~ Upper Storage Locker - The original perforated pressed wood backer-board was replaced with a Luan panel. The new panel was painted with three applications of West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. The epoxy was applied with a foam roller and then tipped off with a brush to remove any bubbles. When applied, the diluted mixture soaks into the wood, where the epoxy cures and the solvent evaporates. The process dramatically slows the migration of moisture, but does not act as a "water-proofer." After each application had dried for 24 hours, it was lightly sanded with 220-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

New mahogany molding strips were cut to the standard Chris Craft size of 1/4" x 1". With the wood rough cut, the molding was dry fitted and pre-drilled for fastening. One edge of the wood was rounded-over with a 1/4" round-over bit.

Forward Guest Cabin ~ Storage Draws - The bunk-board over the lower bunk was removed to gain access to the general bilge area. The horizontal draw tracks that guided the under bunk drawers and their vertical supports were damaged, poorly repaired or broken. No two pieces of track were alike. The decision was made to replace the old draw tracks and supports.

Forward Guest Cabin ~ Storage Draws - Measuring different pieces from the forward cabin, owners cabin and the aft guest cabin as guides new mahogany draw tracks and their supports were cut. The new tracks and supports were then fitted straight and boat level and fastened in place using new #8 - 1 1/2"stainless steel screws.

Forward Guest Cabin ~ Storage Draws - In order to present a clean neat appearance, any unused brackets, screws, plumbing or wiring was removed. Any protruding screws were cut off. The exposed hull planking and framing were inspected and found to be dirty but sound. The hull frames, seam battens and planks were scraped and vacuumed. Even though it would not be seen all the inside planking, seam battens and hull frames were cleaned with a mixture of water, TSP (Tri-sodium-phosphate) and bleach.

Abandoned screw holes were plugged with toothpicks. The toothpicks were coated with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then taped into the screw holes. Later the ends of the toothpicks were broken off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

The hull frames, seam battens and inside hull planking were painted with Interlux #863 - Bilge-kote Gray.

Forward Guest Cabin ~ Storage Draws - Even after cleaning the look of the draws was old and tiered. The decision was made to refinish the inside and outside of the draws.

The inside and outside of the draws were sanded with 120-grit paper.

New nylon draw guides were installed with stainless steel screws on the back of the draws.

Forward Guest Cabin ~ Storage Draws - The woodwork was painted with the grain with Interlux - #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel. After the stain had dried for 24 hours it was rubbed down with a Green (Medium) 3M Scotch-Brite Pad.

Using a 1/8" nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush the woodwork was rolled and tipped with six applications of Interlux - #95 - Goldspar Varnish. Before the last coat was applied, the previous coats were block sanded with 220-grit sandpaper and then everything was vacuumed and wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Forward Guest Cabin ~ Storage Draws - the insides of the draws were finished with Minwax Wood Finish � Fruitwood 241.

Forward Guest Cabin ~ Overhead - The plywood that was used in replacing the forward sub-decking was only finished on one side. The underside, even after painting, did not present a clean neat appearance. The decision was made to install Luan panels in order to present a clean look.

Luan panels were cut and carefully trimmed and dry fitted to fit just slightly snug. The new panels was painted with three applications of West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. The epoxy was applied with a foam roller and then tipped off with a foam brush to remove any bubbles. When applied, the diluted mixture soaks into the wood, where the epoxy cures and the solvent evaporates. The process dramatically slows the migration of moisture, but does not act as a "water-proofer." After each application had dried for 24 hours, it was lightly sanded with 220-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer were rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After each coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

A heavy bead of liquid nails was applied to the underside of the panels and the panels pushed into place and taped down with a wood block and hammer.

The side seams of the panels were filled with a white caulk and smoother with a finger swipe.

Forward Guest Cabin ~ Cabin & Closet Doors - Over the years and owners, many different types of stains, colors, tints, sealers and varnishes had been used on the boat. The net effect was that the exposed mahogany woodwork did not have a uniform color, texture or finish. The decision was made to try to achieve a level of consistency. In order to achieve a uniform look the decision was made to strip, sand, stain and refinish all the wood.

The woodwork was first painted with multiple applications of Strypeeze paint and varnish remover followed by hand scraping to remove the accumulated old finish.

Any nicks, dings, scratches or blemishes were repaired using Famowood mahogany wood filler. With the surface repaired, the wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.