R Forward Cabin

Forward Guest Cabin - The open deck seams and loose deck fittings caused rainwater to leak down into the sub decking and cabin below. The leaking rainwater caused the wood to rot and develop mold and mildew on the walls and overhead.

The portlight was leaking as was the overhead hatch. The bunks, drawers, closet, and shelves were full of years of accumulated stuff. It appeared to be the general storage area for the boat. There was obvious leaking into the rope locker from a rot hole in the port bow.

Everything that was not fastened down was removed. Next came the initial cleaning and then a detailed inspection.

Forward Guest Cabin - Everything that was not bolted down was removed. Next came the initial cleaning and then a detailed inspection.

The non-working, decades old Yacht Air Corp. - Comfort System air conditioner unit was first remove. The AC unit supplied cool air to both the Forward Guest Cabin and the Galley and Dinette. The shelving, bunks and outer wall were then removed.

Forward Guest Cabin - The delaminated outer wall was next to be replaced.

First, the length and width of a replacement panel was cut from 1/4" Luan and dry fitted.

To help eliminate any future problems, the outside of the wood was painted with West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. The epoxy was applied with a foam roller and then tipped off with a brush to remove any bubbles. This process allowed the epoxy to slowly seep into and seal the wood.

The panel was then fastened to the main frames using #16 - 1� brass escutcheon pins. The opening for the portlight was cutout with a jigsaw.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer were rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After each coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Forward Guest Cabin -The portlights were leaking. In removing the portlights, it was interesting to find that the some of the portlights had been bedded and sealed with an assorted mixture of window glazing compound, polysulfide and 3M-5200. It appeared that each layer of goop was applied on top of the previous layer. It was obviously a poor way of sealing the portlight to the hull and flashing. Additionally, over the years, and owners, the type and size of fasteners that were used on the portlights had evolved so that very little was common or standardized. The portlights showed years of accumulated paint and corrosion. The decision was made to strip and refinish them.

The old portlight gasket material was removed. A high-speed wire wheel was used to clean the accumulated paint and corrosion from the portlight bolts, nuts, washers and dogs. The front and backsides of the portlights including the aluminum portlight dogs were sprayed with two coats of Rust-Oleum Red Primer. After drying overnight, they were again sprayed with two coats of Rust-Oleum Gloss White Appliance Spray Paint. The bolts, nuts and the inside of the dogs were painted with Never-Seez grease. New gasket was then fitted and secured with contact cement.

The backside of the portlight was heavily coated with 3M-4200 and the portlight inserted into the opening. The portlight was then screwed back in place using 2" stainless steel screws. Sixteen screws hold the portlight next to the seal. The new and standardized screws were lightly screwed into the holes and given a couple turns. It is important to let the caulking cure for a day before tightening the portlight to the boat, and so, the following day the screws were tightened down.

Forward Guest Cabin -There was an original 110-volt AC resistance heater and fan built into the lower part of the lower berth. Given current standards and technology the decision was made to remove the heater and plug the cavity with new mahogany. A new 10 x 11 x ¾" mahogany plug was cut.

The edges were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with West System 404 high-density filler that was tinted with 1 drop of mahogany coloring agent.

Forward Guest Cabin ~ Storage Draws - The horizontal draw tracks that guided the under bunk drawers and their vertical supports were damaged, poorly repaired or broken. No two pieces of track or support were alike.

The decision was made to replace the old draw tracks and supports. As before, various types and sizes of fasteners had been used to fasten the old track and supports. Measuring different pieces from the forward cabin, owners cabin and the aft guest cabin as guides new mahogany draw tracks and their supports were cut. The new tracks and supports were then fitted straight and boat level then secured in place using new #8 stainless steel screws.

In order to present a clean neat appearance, any unused brackets, screws, plumbing or wiring was removed. Any protruding hull screws were cut off.

Abandoned screw holes were re-drilled and then plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

Forward Guest Cabin ~ Storage Draws - In order to present a clean appearance the under bunk storage draws were repaired and refinished.

The inside and outside of the draws were sanded with 120-grit paper. After vacuuming the insides and outsides were finished with Minwax Wood Finish � Fruitwood 241.

New nylon draw guides were installed with stainless steel screws on the back of the draws.