R Forward Head

Forward Guest Head - was caked with dirt. The vinyl wall covering was gone from the bulkhead around and under the portlight. The open deck seams and loose deck fittings caused rainwater to leak down into the sub decking and cabin below. The leaking rainwater caused the wood to rot and develop mold and mildew on the walls and overhead. The portlight was leaking as well.

Everything that was not fastened down was removed. Next came a through cleaning and then a detailed inspection.

Forward Guest Head - The aft wall separating the Forward Guest Head from the Dinette was rotting and delaminated and required replacement. The problem was the leaking deck seams and joints. The decision was made to replace the complete wall.

In order to present a clean neat appearance, any unused brackets, screws, plumbing or wiring was removed. Any protruding screws were cut off.

Forward Guest Head - The forward wall showed signs of minor delamination along part of the top of the wall. The wood appeared to be strong with just the glue failing. The decision was made to repair the delamination by re-gluing it.

Forward Guest Head - A plastic syringe was used to inject West System 105 / 205 epoxy into the top of the wall and then allowed to seep down into the delaminated wood. Wax-paper was then wrapped around a 1" x 1" batten and the batten screwed into the top of the wall. Other smaller battens were also placed on top of the wax-paper and screwed in.

This process pulled the delaminated wood together and allowed the epoxy to glue it back together.

Forward Guest Head ~ Vanity - The renovation of the vanity began by removing the shelving. This revealed that the original 110-vac outlet was originally wired with #16 two strand wire and no ground.

Forward Guest Head ~ Vanity - The old basin sink and plumbing was removed as was the original 32-vdc 16 gauge wiring.

A new back wall was cut from 1/4" Luan and installed.

All of the old copper water lines were replaced with PEX �� OD semi rigid Polyethylene tubing and secured with QEST �� OD compression fittings. Rated 160 PSI to 73 F.

Forward Guest Head ~ Vanity - The cutout for the original under counter vanity sink was oblong in shape while the new sink is round.

Using the shape of the original cutout and the shape of the new sink a filler piece was cut from 3/4" stock. The new wood was then secured in place with #20 biscuits and West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with West System 404 high-density filler.

The old 110-vac electrical receptacle and wiring was removed and replaced with new 14 gauge marine wire for the AC and DC electrical service.

Forward Guest Head ~ Portlight - The portlights were leaking. In removing the Aluminum portlights, it was interesting to find that the the portlights had been bedded and sealed with an assorted mixture of window glazing compound, polysulfide and 3M-5200. It appeared that each layer of goop was applied on top of the previous layer. It was obviously a poor way of sealing the portlight to the hull and flashing. Additionally, over the years, and owners, the type and size of fasteners that were used on the portlights had evolved so that very little was common or standardized. The Aluminum portlights showed years of accumulated paint and corrosion. The decision was made to strip and refinish it.

The old portlight gasket material was removed. A high-speed wire wheel was used to clean the accumulated paint and corrosion from the portlight bolts, nuts, washers and dogs. The front and backsides of the portlight including the aluminum portlight dogs were sprayed with two coats of Rust-Oleum Red Primer. After drying overnight, it was again sprayed with two coats of Rust-Oleum Gloss White Appliance Spray Paint. The bolts, nuts and the inside of the dogs were painted with Never-Seez grease. New gasket was then fitted and secured with contact cement.

The outboard side of the portlight was heavily coated with 3M-4200 and the portlight inserted into the opening. The portlight was then fastened in place using #14 - 2" stainless steel oval head screws. The screws were lightly screwed in. The following day the screws were tightened down.

Forward Guest Head - The counter top and face was covered with Almond laminate. Almond was chosen as a neutral contrasting color to the White and mahogany. The mastic was rolled on the wood and laminate and allowed to set-up. Dowels were laid down and the laminate laid on top. The dowels were then removed one at a time and the laminate pressed down with a "J" roller. The edges of the laminate were trimmed using a laminate trimmer with a flush-cutting bit.

New mahogany molding was cut to the standard Chris*Craft size of 1/4" x 1". With the wood rough cut, the molding was dry fitted and pre-drilled for fastening. One edge of the wood was rounded-over with a 1/2" round-over bit. A Dremmel contour sander was used to smooth the rounded edge of the new molding. The front face was faired using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

The molding was painted with the grain with Interlux � #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel. After the stain had dried for 24 hours it was rubbed down with a Green (Medium) 3M Scotch-Brite Pad.

The molding was then fastened in place using #16 - 1� brass escutcheon pins.

The molding was painted with three applications of West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. The epoxy was applied with a foam roller and then tipped off with a brush to remove any bubbles. This process allowed the epoxy to slowly seep into and seal the wood. After each application had dried for 24 hours, it was lightly sanded with 120-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

A G.F.I receptacle was installed and the polarity checked.

The new Scandvik stainless steal basins were then installed and secured in place with 3M 4200. New Series 148 Multi-Purpose PVC 1 �� ID hose was then attached to the basin drain and bronze through-hull fitting. The drain lines were all secured with worm screw marine grade hose clamps.

The hot and cold water feeds to the faucet were made-up using PEX 1/2� OD � 3/8' ID semi rigid Polyethylene tubing and secured with QEST compression fittings The feeds were taken from the supply lines running along the center line of the boat.

Forward Guest Head ~ Molding - Before Chris-Craft began installing headliners they originally installed mahogany ceiling slats on the outboard edge of the open beam ceiling of the below deck cabins. Their objective was to provide a clean look and screen the view of the bolts, nuts and backer plate hardware that secured the many deck stanchions and cleats. Sometime in the past, these skirt boards had been removed in most of the cabins. The decision was made to reinstall overhead slats wherever they were missing.

Using the few ceiling slat boards that were still onboard as a model, new 3� x �� mahogany slats were cut. The edges were then rounded over with a �� round-over bit. With the slats cut to length, the wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

The wood was painted with the grain with Interlux - #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel. After the stain had dried for 24 hours it was rubbed down with a Green (Medium) 3M Scotch-Brite Pad.

Using a 1/8" nap foam roller and a 3" foam brush the woodwork was rolled and tipped with six applications of Interlux - #95 - Goldspar Varnish. Before the last coat was applied, the previous coats were block sanded with 220-grit sandpaper then vacuumed and wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Forward Guest Head ~ Molding - In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer were rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After each coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

The overhead outboard ceiling edge molding was fastened to the exposed deck beams using #6 - 1� oval head screws and finish washers. The slats were positioned with 1� spacing in between the two slats and away from the outer edge.

With the help of the Internet, original Kirsch 7000 series Window Treatment Roding Hardware was acquired from auctions.

All of the hardware was soaked in full strength ammonia for a week in order to loosen all of the old paint, stain, varnish and green patina. The parts were then scrubbed with a stiff bristle nylon brush and rinsed clean. The mechanical parts were sprayed with WD40 to lubricate and protect them. All of the hardware was then reinstalled using same size and types of fasteners.

Cabin lighting was supplied by new 12-volt DC overhead florescent light fixture, installed in the center of the overhead.

A new gasket was then installed in the portlight.

Forward Guest Head ~ Jabsco Electric Marine Toilet - The Jabsco toilet was not operational. The 32-VDC motor on the old toilet was swapped out for a 12-VDC motor. The toilet was completely overhauled and put back into service.

The old copper tubing water lines were replaced with new flexible polyethylene water lines.

Forward Guest Head ~ Waste treatment system - The old 32-VDC Raritan - Lectra/San model LST - �black water� treatment system had long ago stopped working. The decision had previously been made that when practical and possible to replace old 32-VDC electrical items with 12-VDC appliances.

Forward Guest Head ~ Waste treatment system - Through swapping and auctions many different old parts for a 12-VDC LST Lectra/San system were collected.

Forward Guest Head ~ Waste treatment system - Enough 12-VDC parts and accessories were collected to build a "new / old" Lectra/San waste treatment system that would connect to the 12-VDC Raritan Crown Head toilet. The individual components were bench tested and then assembled. The complete treatment system and it's control module were then bench tested before installation.

Forward Guest Head ~ Waste treatment system - It was discovered that the previous wiring was two sizes to small for the treatment unit and presented a safety hazard. 30' of new #4 marine wire was run from the ships service panel to the Lectra/San control module.