|
Galley
- In the Galley the cabinet doors
had been removed and stored under the
counter. Much of the cabinet storage
was taken up with varied paints, stains,
and chemicals. The range was rusty
and appeared unusable. The
refrigerator freezer was original and was
part of the integrated construction of the
boat, but was not working. The floor
covering had been torn out.
The open deck seams and
loose deck fittings caused rainwater to
leak down into the sub decking and cabins
below. The leaking rainwater caused the
wood to rot and develop mold and mildew on
the walls and
overhead. Everything that was not fastened down was removed. Next came the initial cleaning and then a detailed inspection. |
|
|
Galley ~ Refrigerator
& Freezer - The decision was
made that the original refrigerator and
freezer should be replaced with modern
energy efficient space saving
appliances. The refrigerant compressor, it's tubing and wiring were all removed from the engine compartment. The upper and lower doors were removed and then the deconstruction started with the lower freezer unit. |
|
Galley ~ Refrigerator
& Freezer - The freezer portion
of the unit was constructed with eight
layers of overlapping and interlocking
plywood, fiberglass insulation, aluminum
foil and mahogany framing. The refrigerator
portion was constructed with six
layers. It was discovered that the decking under the forward edge of the refrigerator & freezer unit was rotting. This was obviously caused by fresh water leaking from the unit during defrosting cycles and rotting the deck. The rotting deck was was cut out, then 3/4" nailers were fastened on the four sides of the deck edges. A new piece of 3/4" stock was cut to fit the opening and secured in place with thickened epoxy and screws. |
|
|
Galley - The aft wall and cabinets were removed reveling the that the original bulkhead had been covered over canceling many old cutouts, holes and patched. The original and upgraded wiring was also reveled allowing for a detailed examination. |
| Galley - The counter top, cabinets and plumbing were removed and a through cleaning and inspection begun. |
|
|
Galley ~ New portlight
glass - The inspection reveled that
the glass on one of the portlights was
cracked and in need of replacement. The local glass shop used the broken glass as a pattern and cut new glass. A bead of clear silicone caulk (silicone caulk is a good sealant when used under compression) was run around the portlight then the glass installed and the compression ring screwed down slowly and evenly. |
|
Galley ~ New portlight
glass -
The portlights were
leaking. In removing the portlights,
it was interesting to find that the
some of the portlights had been
bedded and sealed with an assorted
mixture of window glazing compound,
polysulfide and 3M-5200. It appeared
that each layer of goop was applied
on top of the previous layer. It was
obviously a poor way of sealing the
portlight to the hull and flashing.
Additionally, over the years, and
owners, the type and size of
fasteners that were used on the
portlights had evolved so that very
little was common or standardized.
The portlights showed years of
accumulated paint and corrosion. The
decision was made to strip and
refinish them. The old portlight gasket material was removed. A high-speed wire wheel was used to clean the accumulated paint and corrosion from the portlight bolts, nuts, washers and dogs. The front and backsides of the portlights including the aluminum portlight dogs were sprayed with two coats of Rust-Oleum Red Primer. After drying overnight, they were again sprayed with two coats of Rust-Oleum Gloss White Appliance Spray Paint. The bolts, nuts and the inside of the dogs were painted with Never-Seez grease. New gasket was then fitted and secured with contact cement. The backside of the portlight was heavily coated with 3M-4200 and the portlight inserted into the opening. The portlight was then fastened in place using #14 - 2" stainless steel oval head screws. The screws were lightly screwed in. The following day the screws were tightened down. |
|
|
Galley ~
New Hull Frame - With all the
cabinetry removed it was clear to see that
the outboard wall separating the starboard
side galley from the forward cabin was
delaminating and rotting and needed to be
replaced. Open deck
seams and loose deck fittings caused
rainwater to leak down into the sub decking
and woodwork below. The leaking rainwater
caused the wood to rot and develop mold and
mildew on the walls and overhead.
The decision was made to
remove all of the bad wood and to expose
the hull frame. A straight edge was used to draw a straight line down the wall. A circular saw then used to cut away the bad wood. The same was done to the Luan panel on the outboard hull. |
| Galley ~ New Hull Frame - A close inspection identified that most of the hull frame was completely rotted and needed to be replaced. |
|
|
Galley ~ New Hull Frame - A large piece of mahogany was purchased in preparation for making a new hull frame. |
| Galley ~ New Hull Frame - First a piece of cardboard was used to lay out the general curve of the hull and existing frame. |
|
|
Galley ~ New Hull Frame - The cardboard was laid up to the hull and trimmed to fit. Next the cut-outs for the horizontal seam battens were marked. |
| Galley ~ New Hull Frame - The cardboard was then cut and trimmed to fit over the seam battens. The cardboard was repeatable dry fitted and trimmed until a good fit was achieved. |
|
|
Galley ~ New Hull Frame - The cardboard was then used to layout the shape of the new hull frame on a piece of Luan. The Luan will eventually serve as the template for cutting the new main frame. |
|
Galley ~ New Hull
Frame - The
cut Luan template was continually dry
fitted and trimmed until a smooth
clean dry fit over the seam battens
and to the hull was achieved. The cut
for the 8:1 scarf joint was also cut
into the template. What is a "Scarf Joint" - An end joint formed by joining with glue and mechanical fastenings the ends of two pieces that have been tapered or beveled to form a sloping plane surface, to the same length in both pieces. Scarifying accomplishes cutting off the rotted end of a frame member and replacing it with a new piece of wood with no loss of strength. For maximum strength, the scarf joint surface should be at 90 degrees to the expected flexing forces. For example, the frame has flexing forces up and down, and side ways. Therefore, the scarf joint surface will be done 90 degrees to that force. The basics of a good scarf joint is that the matting surface of the joint should be 8 to 12 times the thickness of the material at the joint. Longer is better because it starts to take on the characteristic of a lamination of two pieces together. |
|
|
Galley ~ New Hull
Frame - The
rotting hull frame was carefully cut
out with a reciprocating saw and
chisel. The bottom of the hull frame
was also cut with the 8:1 scarf. The overhead deck beam was also rotting and so it was cut back to good wood and the 8:1 scarfe cut made. The exposed hull screws were cut off flush with the hull planking using a Dremmel fitted with a cutting wheel. The wood was painted with three applications of West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. The epoxy was applied with a foam roller and then tipped off with a brush to remove any bubbles. When applied, the diluted mixture soaks into the wood, where the epoxy cures and the solvent evaporates. The process dramatically slows the migration of moisture, but does not act as a "water-proofer." After each application had dried for 24 hours, it was lightly sanded with 120-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner. |
| Galley ~ New Hull Frame - The Luan template was used to layout the cuts in the new hull frame. The new hull frame was cut using a circular saw and the notches cut with a jig saw. The new hull frame was then sanded smooth on all sides. |
|
|
Galley ~ New Hull
Frame - The
new hull frame was repeatable dry
fitted to the hull and the cuts
refined. In order to keep the new hull frame square to the keel and to account for the inward curve of the forward part of the hull, the outboard width of the new hull frame, including the notches were back-cut 7° |
|
Galley ~ New Hull
Frame - All of
the old screws that were used to
fasten the hull planking to the old
hull frame were removed. In order to present a clean neat appearance, any unused brackets, screws, plumbing or wiring was removed. Any protruding screws were cut off. Per the USCC publication NVIC 7-95 abandoned screw holes were re-drilled and then plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper. |
|
|
Galley ~ New Hull
Frame - The
intermediate hull frame, seam battens
and inside hull planking were cleaned
and painted with Interlux -
Bilge-kote Gray. The new hull frame was dry fitted one last time to recheck for proper fit before the installation process was started. |
|
Galley ~ New Hull
Frame - The
location of the new hull frame was
marked on the hull planking. To
establish a clean line new screw
holes were drilled from the inside
out. The outside of the screw holes
were then counter-bored. The old and
new hull frame ends were buttered
with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that
were thickened with West System 404
high-density filler. While the epoxy
was still wet the two hull frame end
pieces were fastened with #12 - 2
1/2" silicon bronze screws. The outside hull planking was then fastened to the new hull frame with #12 - 2 1/2" silicon bronze screws. |
|
|
Galley ~ New Hull Frame - A forward galley wall replacement panel was laid out using the Luan hull frame template as a pattern. The outline of the hull shape was traced onto a piece of 3/4" plywood. |
| Galley ~ New Hull Frame - With the measurements double checked the forward galley wall replacement panel was cut. |
|
|
Galley ~ New Hull
Frame - The
forward galley wall replacement panel
was dry fitted and the cut seam
joining the original wall and the
replacement panel refined. Screw holes were were drilled and counter bored every 6" along the outboard edge of the replacement panel. The seam of the original wall and replacement panel were marked and #0 biscuits slots cut. The ends of the replacement panel and original wall were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that were thickened with West System 404 high-density filler and then joined together. The outboard edge of the replacement panel was fastened to the new hull frame using #8 - 1 1/2" stainless steel screws. |
| Galley ~ New Galley Wall - With the two walls mated and the epoxy dried. The new and old wall was sanded smooth with 120-grit paper. In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux - Pre-Kote White primer were rolled on and tipped off using a 6" x 1/8" nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. |
|
|
Galley ~ New Galley
Wall - With
the new wall panel installed and
painted work began on the replacement
deck beam. A template was first made from Luan and the arc for the curve of the deck refined. The cut Luan template was continually dry fitted and trimmed until a smooth clean dry fit of the new and old deck beam was achieved. The cut for the 8:1 scarfe joint was also cut into the template. A replacement deck beam was cut from the template and the shape refined and dry fitted. After dry fitting the edges were rounded so that it would blend with the original deck beam. |
|
Galley ~ New Galley
Wall - The
location of the new deck beam was
marked on the sub decking. To verify
a clean screw line the old bungs on
the teak decking were removed and the
screw holes were re-drilled from the
outside in. The outside of the screw
holes were then counter-bored. The
old and new deck beam ends were
buttered with West System 105 / 205
epoxy that were thickened with West
System 404 high-density filler. While
the epoxy was still wet the two deck
beam end pieces were fastened with #8
- 2" stainless steel screws. The new deck beam, sub deck and decking were then pulled together by fastened from the top thought the teak decking, sub decking and deck beam with #8 - 2" stainless steel screws. The new deck beam was then fastened to the new hull frame. |
|
|
Galley ~ New Galley
Wall - When
Chris-Craft built
Independence the Galley floor
was not built out to the hull
framing. The galley floor was short
by half a foot and provided an
excellent opening for things to find
their way to the bilge, The decision was made to floor extensions in order to run the flooring out around the framing and to the hull. |
|
Galley ~ New Galley
Wall - First
3" battens were cut that would serve
as screw strips. The screw strips
were fastened under the existing
floor using a 3" screw pattern. With the screw strips fastened in place, 3/4" flooring extensions were measured, cut and dry flitted in place. The extensions were continually dry fitted and trimmed until a smooth clean fit of the new and old deck was achieved. The extensions were then fastened to the screw strips. |
|
|
Galley ~ New Galley
Wall - When
the Galley was de-constructed there
was no back wall under the cabinetry.
The decision was made to install a
back wall before building the new
cabinetry. A new back wall was cut from a single sheet of Luan. The new back wall was continually dry fitted and trimmed until a smooth clean fit between the old and new and new wall was achieved. 3" screw strip battens were cut and slipped under the old wall. The old and new walls were then fastened to the screw battens using #6 - 1/2" stainless steel screws on a 3" screw pattern. |
|
Galley ~ New Galley
Wall -
The new woodwork was also
secured using West System 105 / 205 epoxy
that was thickened with West System 404
high-density filler.
After the epoxy had
dried it was smoothed using 120-grit
sandpaper. The gaps, seams and voids were then filled with a fairing compound of West System 105 / 205 epoxy thickened with System Three - Phenolic Microballoons. After the fairing compound had dried, it was smoothed using 120-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish. |
|
|
Galley ~ New Galley Wall - In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux - Pre-Kote White primer were rolled and tipped using a 1/8" nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After each coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. |
|
Galley ~ New Counter
Top - On an
old wooden boat there are rarely true
right angels or straight walls or
level flooring. The galley was thoroughly
measured in order to find the the
high points in the floor. With the
high point established a lazier level
and framing square were used to mark
the height of the new counter top on
the walls. Using the established height marks, a ledger board was then fastened to the walls that will help support the counter top. The first of several counter tops was cut from 3/4" plywood and dry fitted to the aft wall. |
|
|
Galley ~ New Counter
Top -
In order to get a clean
tight fit to the three walls the new
counter top was cut as two separate
sections. Each section was scribed and
trimmed to fit without any gaps. The outer
edges were also back cut to help insure a
tight fit. With the two pieces trimmed and fitting snugly the two pieces were joined together with #20 biscuits. The two ends and biscuit slots were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that were thickened with West System 404 high-density filler and the pieces fitted together. While the epoxy was still wet the two parts of the counter tops were covered with wax paper. A piece of scrap was then fastened on to the tops in order to pull the two pieces up even. |
|
Galley ~ New Counter
Top - After
the epoxy had dried for two days the
top and bottom was sanded
smooth. The
seam between the two sheets was then
filled with a fairing compound of
West System 105 / 205 epoxy thickened
with System Three - Phenolic
Microballoons. After the fairing
compound had dried, it was smoothed
using 120-grit sandpaper producing a
clean smooth finish. The outside edge around the entire counter top was strengthened and built-up with 3/4 x 3" edge strips. A strengthen strip was also fastened to the underside of the top where the two pieces joined together. |
|
|
Galley ~ New Counter
Divider - The
under counter dividers and supports
were rough cut and then scribed to
the outer hull wall and floor. A
vertical screw strip was fastened to
the outer hull wall for the divider
to be fasten to. |
|
Galley ~ New Counter
Top -
The counter top was
covered with Wilsonart D30 Natural Almond
laminate. Almond was chosen as a neutral
contrasting color to the White and
mahogany. The mastic was rolled on the wood
and laminate and allowed to set-up. Dowels
were laid down and the laminate laid on
top. The dowels were then removed one at a
time and the laminate pressed down with a
"J" roller. The edges of the laminate were
trimmed using a laminate trimmer with a
flush-cutting bit and the top dry fitted to
the three walls. The opening for the stainless steel sink was cut-out, trimmed and the sink dry fitted. |
|
|
Galley ~ New Counter
Front - The
cabinet front was rough cut from a
single sheet of 3/4" stock and then
trimmed to dry fit the under side of
the counter top. |
|
Galley ~ New Counter Floor
& Shelf - With the
front removed a new raised floor and 2/3
deep shelf was rough cut from 3/4" stock.
The back edges of the floor and shelf were
scribed in to fit, and then back cut
7° for a tight fit to the wall.
The outside of the shelf
was then strengthened and built-up with 3/4
x 3" edge strip. In order to add support to the cabinet floor three evenly spaced floor supports were cut, dry fitted and fastened to the cabin sole. An opening was cut in the hull side wall in order to connect the drain from the sink. A covering board will later be fitted to the opening and the drain line. |
|
|
Galley ~ New Counter Floor
& Shelf - The counter
floor and shelf were covered with
Wilsonart D30 Natural
Almond laminate. Almond was chosen as a
neutral contrasting color to the White and
mahogany. The mastic was rolled on the wood
and laminate and allowed to set-up. Dowels
were laid down and the laminate laid on
top. The dowels were then removed one at a
time and the laminate pressed down with a
"J" roller. The edges of the laminate were
trimmed using a laminate trimmer with a
flush-cutting bit and the top dry fitted to
the three walls. The Sub-Zero under-counter refrigerator & freezer was dry fitted to the opening and leveled |
|
Galley ~ New Counter Floor
& Shelf - The
decision was made to trim the openings and
exposed edges with mahogany trim
molding. New ¼" x 1" mahogany molding strips were cut. The top edge of the cabinet would be trimmed with ¼" x 3" - "J" molding. With the molding rough cut, the outboard edge of the molding was rounded-over with a 1/2" round-over bit. A Dremmel contour sander was used to smooth the rounded edge of the new molding. The wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.
|
|
|
Galley ~ Upper Side
Cabinet -
The upper side cabinet face frame,
side board and inside shelf were
cut from 3/4"
stock and scribed
in for a tight dry
fit.
|
|
Galley ~ Upper Side
Cabinet - The
front, side and shelf were covered
with Wilsonart D30 Natural Almond
laminate. Almond was chosen as a
neutral contrasting color to the
White and mahogany. The mastic was
rolled on the wood and laminate and
allowed to set-up. Dowels were laid
down and the laminate laid on top.
The dowels were then removed one at a
time and the laminate pressed down
with a "J" roller. The edges of the
laminate were trimmed using a
laminate trimmer with a flush-cutting
bit. The decision was made to trim the openings and exposed edges with mahogany trim molding. New ¼" x 1" mahogany molding strips were cut. With the molding rough cut, the outboard edge of the molding was rounded-over with a 1/2" round-over bit. A Dremmel contour sander was used to smooth the rounded edge of the new molding. The wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish. The wood was painted with the grain with Interlux - #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel. After the stain had dried for 24 hours it was rubbed down with a Green (Medium) 3M Scotch-Brite Pad. The molding was then fastened in place using #16 - 1" brass escutcheon pins. |
|
|
Galley ~ Upper Front
Cabinet -
The upper front cabinet face frame, was
cut from 3/4" stock
and fitted snug to the opening. A ledger board for the back support of the cabinet top was cut. The vertical curvature of the hull in the galley ran from 10° at one end to 15° at the other. The ledger board was back-cut at 12° to so that the cabinet top would sit flat on it. The ledger strip was leveled fore and aft then fastened into the hull frames. The two dividers for the front cabinet were cut and dry-fitted. |
|
Galley ~ Upper Front
Cabinet - The
face frame was fastened to the
dividers. The top was fastened to the
face frame and dividers. |
|
|
Galley ~ Upper Front
Cabinet -
The front and top were covered with
Wilsonart D30 Natural
Almond laminate. Almond was chosen as a
neutral contrasting color to the White and
mahogany. The mastic was rolled on the wood
and laminate and allowed to set-up. Dowels
were laid down and the laminate laid on
top. The dowels were then removed one at a
time and the laminate pressed down with a
"J" roller. The edges of the laminate were
trimmed using a laminate trimmer with a
flush-cutting bit. The new front cabinet was then scribed into the sides and back. |
|
Galley ~ Upper Front
Cabinet -
The top of the inboard
edge of the upper cabinet was edge trimmed
with "L" shaped - 7/8" x 7/8" mahogany
molding. A 2 1/2" x
1" pin-rail was then installed on top of
the edge molding. ¼" x 1" mahogany molding strips were cut for the three openings. With the molding rough cut, the outboard edge of the molding was rounded-over with a 1/2" round-over bit. A Dremmel contour sander was used to smooth the rounded edge of the new molding. The wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish. All the new molding was painted with the grain with Interlux - #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel. After the stain had dried for 24 hours it was rubbed down with a Green (Medium) 3M Scotch-Brite Pad. The moldings were then fastened in place using #16 - 1" brass escutcheon pins. |
|
|
Galley ~ Upper Side Cabinet - The length, width and depth of the new microwave was measured and transferred to the counter top and side wall. Quarter inch strips were fastened to the counter top to act as stops in order to keep the microwave from sliding during rough seas. |
|
Galley ~ Upper Side
Cabinet - The
side and top of the microwave cabinet
were cut from 3/4" stock and scribed
into place. Access holes were drilled
in the back of the counter top to
allow for ventilation and access for
electrical and water
connections. |
|
|
Galley ~ Upper Side
Cabinet - The
length, width and depth of the
ice-maker was measured and
transferred to the top of the
microwave cabinet and side wall. 5/8"
strips were fastened to the top of
the microwave cabinet to act as
supports for the ice-maker. The side of the ice-maker cabinet were cut from 3/4" stock and scribed into place. |
|
Galley ~ Upper Side
Cabinet - With
the base structure of the two
cabinets cut and fitted the microwave
and ice-maker were fitted to the
cabinetry to refine the fit and
determine the layout of the
molding |
|
|
Galley ~ Upper Side
Cabinet - The
cabinet with mahogany
molding. All the new molding was painted with the grain with Interlux 573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel. After the stain had dried for 24 hours it was rubbed down with a Green (Medium) 3M Scotch-Brite Pad. The moldings were then fastened in place. /td> |
|
Galley ~ Electric
Range
-
The old
Princess electric range had aged poorly and
was looking long in the tooth. The decision
was made to replace the range with a new
one. With the old range removed it was found that the original, manufactured supplied cabinet was assembled with thin, prad type nails and that the cabinet was coming apart. The frame was refastened using flat head screws that were countersunk into the wood. The cabinet was sanded smooth with 120-grit paper. The inside and outside of the draw were sanded with 120-grit paper. After vacuuming the insides and outside sides were finished with Minwax Wood Finish - Fruitwood 241. |
|
|
Galley ~ Electric - The
side, front and draw front of the range cabinet was covered with Wilsonart D30 Natural Almond laminate. Almond was
chosen as a neutral contrasting color to the White and mahogany. The mastic
was rolled on the wood and laminate and allowed to set-up. Dowels were
laid down and the laminate laid on top. The dowels were then removed one
at a time and the laminate pressed down with a "J" roller. The edges of
the laminate were trimmed using a laminate trimmer with a flush-cutting bit. The decision was made to trim the edge of the draw front with mahogany trim molding. New ¼" x 5/8" mahogany molding strips were cut. With the molding rough cut, the outboard edge of the molding was rounded-over with a 1/2" round-over bit. A Dremmel contour sander was used to smooth the rounded edge of the new molding. The wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish. The molding was painted with the grain with Interlux - #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel. After the stain had dried for 24 hours it was rubbed down a Green (Medium) 3M Scotch-Brite Pad. The molding was then fastened in place using #18 - 3/4" brass escutcheon pins. |
| Galley ~ Electric Range - The new range was installed in the reconditioned cabinet. |
|
|
Galley ~ Air
Conditioning - With the air
conditioning / heating units installed in
the boat the next step was to seal the old
door opening and build cabinetry to enclose
the AC ductwork. A 3/4" mahogany plug was cut and sealed into place with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that were thickened with West System 404 high-density filler. The patched wall was then sanded-down to remove bumps, nicks, dings, gaps or uneven sections, etc. Final filling and fairing was done with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with System Three - Phenolic Microballoons.. |
|
Galley ~ Air
Conditioning - With the
wall faired and primed a new enclosure was
made. Luan panels were cut and dry fitted. The inside edges of the panels were fitted with 3/4" x 3/4" moldings that would be used as fastener strips. The enclosure panel was covered with Wilson art D30 Natural Almond laminate and fastened in place |
|
|
Galley ~ Slats -
Before Chris-Craft began installing headliners
they originally installed mahogany ceiling slats on the
outboard edge of the open beam ceiling of the below deck
cabins. Their objective was to provide a clean look and
screen the view of the bolts, nuts and backer plate
hardware that secured the many deck stanchions and
cleats. Sometime in the past, these skirt boards had
been removed in most of the cabins. The decision was
made to reinstall overhead slats wherever they were
missing. Using the few ceiling slat boards that were still onboard as a model, new 3” x ½” mahogany slats were cut. The edges were then rounded over with a ¼” round-over bit. With the slats cut to length, the wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish. The wood was painted with the grain with Interlux - #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel. After the stain had dried for 24 hours it was rubbed down with a Green (Medium) 3M Scotch-Brite Pad. Using a 1/8" nap foam roller and a 3" foam brush the woodwork was rolled and tipped with six applications of Interlux - #95 - Goldspar Varnish. Before the last coat was applied, the previous coats were block sanded with 220-grit sandpaper then vacuumed and wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner. |
|
 |
Galley ~
Flooring -
The previous
owner had removed the old linoleum
flooring in the galley. Before the installation begins it is important to make sure the floor underneath is smooth and flat. Any tacks, nails and screws were removed. The floor was then sanded-down to remove bumps. Abandoned screw holes in the floor were drilled out and then plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were dipped in West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper. Nicks, dings, gaps or uneven sections, etc. were filled with a fairing compound made of West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with System Three - Phenolic Microballoons.. After the fairing compound had cured, the floor was sanded using 120-grit sandpaper. After talking to other wooden boaters and flooring installers, the decision was made to install TrafficMaster Allure (Teak) Vinyl Flooring from Halstead International in the galley and forward cabin. The new flooring was moved aboard the boat two days before the installation began in order to let it acclimate to temperature and humidity levels. Per the manufacture’s installation guidelines a 1/8” gap was maintained around the perimeter of the floor. Quarter-round molding was fastened to the wall and not the flooring, so the floor can float. An OEM Chris Craft hatch pull was found on the internet and installed in the deck hatch. |
| Galley - The completed galley shows an efficient use of space with everything conveniently located within arms reach. |
|
