R Galley

Galley - In the Galley the cabinet doors had been removed and stored under the counter. Much of the cabinet storage was taken up with varied paints, stains, and chemicals. The range was rusty and appeared unusable. The refrigerator freezer was original and was part of the integrated construction of the boat, but was not working. The floor covering had been torn out. The open deck seams and loose deck fittings caused rainwater to leak down into the sub decking and cabins below. The leaking rainwater caused the wood to rot and develop mold and mildew on the walls and overhead.

Everything that was not fastened down was removed. Next came the initial cleaning and then a detailed inspection.

Galley ~ Refrigerator & Freezer - The decision was made that the original refrigerator and freezer should be replaced with modern energy efficient appliances.

The refrigerant compressor, it's tubing and wiring were all removed from the engine compartment. The upper and lower doors were removed and then the deconstruction started with the lower freezer unit.

Galley ~ Refrigerator & Freezer - The freezer portion of the unit was constructed with eight layers of overlapping and interlocking plywood, fiberglass insulation, aluminum foil and mahogany framing. The refrigerator portion was constructed with six layers.

It was discovered that the decking under the forward edge of the refrigerator & freezer unit was rotting. This was obviously caused by fresh water leaking from the unit during defrosting cycles and rotting the deck.

The rotting deck was was cut out, then 3/4" nailers were fastened on the four sides of the deck edges. A new piece of 3/4" stock was cut to fit the opening and secured in place with thickened epoxy and screws.

Galley - The aft wall and cabinets were removed reveling the that the original bulkhead had been covered over canceling many old cutouts, holes and patched. The original and upgraded wiring was also reveled allowing for a detailed examination.

Galley - The counter top, cabinets and plumbing were removed and a through cleaning and inspection begun.

Galley ~ New portlight glass - The inspection reveled that the glass on one of the portlights was cracked and in need of replacement.

The local glass shop used the broken glass as a pattern and cut new glass.

A bead of clear silicone caulk (silicone caulk is a good sealant when used under compression) was run around the portlight then the glass installed and the compression ring screwed down slowly and evenly.

Galley ~ New portlight glass -

The portlights were leaking. In removing the portlights, it was interesting to find that the some of the portlights had been bedded and sealed with an assorted mixture of window glazing compound, polysulfide and 3M-5200. It appeared that each layer of goop was applied on top of the previous layer. It was obviously a poor way of sealing the portlight to the hull and flashing. Additionally, over the years, and owners, the type and size of fasteners that were used on the portlights had evolved so that very little was common or standardized. The portlights showed years of accumulated paint and corrosion. The decision was made to strip and refinish them.

The old portlight gasket material was removed. A high-speed wire wheel was used to clean the accumulated paint and corrosion from the portlight bolts, nuts, washers and dogs. The front and backsides of the portlights including the aluminum portlight dogs were sprayed with two coats of Rust-Oleum Red Primer. After drying overnight, they were again sprayed with two coats of Rust-Oleum Gloss White Appliance Spray Paint. The bolts, nuts and the inside of the dogs were painted with Never-Seez grease. New gasket was then fitted and secured with contact cement.

The backside of the portlight was heavily coated with 3M-4200 and the portlight inserted into the opening. The portlight was then screwed back in place using 2" stainless steel screws. Sixteen screws hold the portlight next to the seal. The new and standardized screws were lightly screwed into the holes and given a couple turns. It is important to let the caulking cure for a day before tightening the portlight to the boat, and so, the following day the screws were tightened down.

Galley ~ New Hull Frame - With all the cabinetry removed it was clear to see that the outboard wall separating the starboard side galley from the forward cabin was delaminating and rotting and needed to be replaced. Open deck seams and loose deck fittings caused rainwater to leak down into the sub decking and woodwork below. The leaking rainwater caused the wood to rot and develop mold and mildew on the walls and overhead. The decision was made to remove all of the bad wood and to expose the hull frame.

A straight edge was used to draw a straight line down the wall. A circular saw then used to cut away the bad wood. The same was done to the Luan panel on the outboard hull.

Galley ~ New Hull Frame - A close inspection identified that most of the hull frame was completely rotted and needed to be replaced.

Galley ~ New Hull Frame - A large piece of mahogany was purchased in preparation for making a new frame.

Galley ~ New Hull Frame - First a piece of cardboard was used to lay out the general curve of the hull and existing frame.

Galley ~ New Hull Frame - The cardboard was laid up to the hull and trimmed to fit. Next the cut-outs for the horizontal seam battens were marked.

Galley ~ New Hull Frame - The cardboard was then cut and trimmed to fit over the seam battens. The cardboard was repeatable dry fitted and trimmed until a good fit was achieved.

Galley ~ New Hull Frame - The cardboard was then used to layout the shape of the new hull frame on a piece of Luan. The Luan will eventually serve as the template for cutting the new main frame.

Galley ~ New Hull Frame - The cut Luan template was continually dry fitted and trimmed until a smooth clean dry fit over the seam battens and to the hull was achieved. The cut for the 8:1 scarfe joint was also cut into the template.

What is a "Scarfe Joint" - An end joint formed by joining with glue and mechanical fastenings the ends of two pieces that have been tapered or beveled to form a sloping plane surface, to the same length in both pieces.

Scarfeing accomplishes cutting off the rotted end of a frame member and replacing it with a new piece of wood with no loss of strength. For maximum strength, the scarfe joint surface should be at 90 degrees to the expected flexing forces. For example, the frame has flexing forces up and down, and side ways. Therefore, the scarfe joint surface will be done 90 degrees to that force. The basics of a good scarfe joint is that the matting surface of the joint should be 8 to 12 times the thickness of the material at the joint. Longer is better because it starts to take on the characteristic of a lamination of two pieces together.

Galley ~ New Hull Frame - The rotting hull frame was carefully cut out with a reciprocating saw and chisel. The bottom of the hull frame was also cut with the 8:1 scarfe.

The overhead deck beam was also rotting and so it was cut back to good wood and the 8:1 scarfe cut made.

The exposed hull screws were cut off flush with the hull planking using a Dremmel fitted with a cutting wheel. With all of the debris was vacuumed and the inside hull and seam battens were painted with three applications of West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. The epoxy was applied with a chip brush. This process allowed the epoxy to slowly seep into and seal the wood.

The hull planking was painted with three applications of West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. This process allowed the epoxy to slowly seep into and seal the wood.

Galley ~ New Hull Frame - The Luan template was used to layout the cuts in the new hull frame. The new frame was cut using a circular saw and the notches cut with a jig saw. The new frame was then sanded smooth on all sides.

Galley ~ New Hull Frame - The new frame was repeatable dry fitted to the hull and the cuts refined.

In order to keep the new frame square to the keel and to account for the inward curve of the forward part of the hull, the outboard width of the new frame, including the notches were back-cut 7°

Galley ~ New Hull Frame - All of the old screws that were used to fasten the hull planking to the old hull frame were removed.

Abandoned screw holes were re-drilled and then plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

Galley ~ New Hull Frame - The top of the exposed dowels were cut off flush with the inside hull planking and battens and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper. The intermediate frame, seam battens and inside hull planking were cleaned and painted with Interlux - Bilgekote Gray.

The new mainframe was dry fitted one last time to recheck for proper fit before the installation process was started.

Galley ~ New Hull Frame - The location of the new frame was marked on the hull planking. To establish a clean line new screw holes were drilled from the inside out. The outside of the screw holes were then counter-bored. The old and new frame ends were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that were thickened with West System 404 high-density filler. While the epoxy was still wet the two frame end pieces were fastened with #12 Silicon-bronze screws.

The outside hull planking was then fastened to the new frame with #12 Silicon-bronze screws.

Galley ~ New Hull Frame - A forward galley wall replacement panel was laid out using the Luan hull frame template as a pattern. The outline of the hull shape was traced onto a piece of 3/4" plywood.

Galley ~ New Hull Frame - With the measurements double checked the forward galley wall replacement panel was cut

Galley ~ New Hull Frame - The forward galley wall replacement panel was dry fitted and the cut seam joining the original wall and the replacement panel refined.

Screw holes were were drilled and counter bored every 6" along the outboard edge of the replacement panel.

The seam of the original wall and replacement panel were marked and #0 biscuits slots cut. The ends of the replacement panel and original wall were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that were thickened with West System 404 high-density filler and then joined together.

The outboard edge of the replacement panel was fastened to the new hull frame using #8 - 1 1/2" screws.

Galley ~ New Galley Wall - With the two walls mated and the epoxy dried. The new and old wall was sanded smooth with 120-grit paper. In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer were rolled on and tipped off using a 6" x 1/8” nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush.

Galley ~ New Galley Wall - With the new wall panel installed and painted work began on the replacement deck beam.

A template was first made from Luan and the arc for the curve of the deck refined. The cut Luan template was continually dry fitted and trimmed until a smooth clean dry fit of the new and old deck beam was achieved. The cut for the 8:1 scarfe joint was also cut into the template.

A replacement deck beam was cut from the template and the shape refined and dry fitted. After dry fitting the edges were rounded so that it would blend with the original deck beam.

Galley ~ New Galley Wall - The location of the new beam was marked on the sub decking. To verify a clean screw line the old bungs on the teak decking were removed and the screw holes were re-drilled from the outside in. The outside of the screw holes were then counter-bored. The old and new deck beam ends were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that were thickened with West System 404 high-density filler. While the epoxy was still wet the two frame end pieces were fastened with #8 stainless steel screws.

The new deck beam, sub deck and decking were then pulled together by fastened from the top thought the teak decking, sub decking and deck beam with #8 stainless steel screws.

The new deck beam was then fastened to the new hull frame.

Galley ~ New Galley Wall - When Chris-Craft built Independence the Galley floor was not built out to the hull framing. The galley floor was short by half a foot and provided an excellent opening for things to find their way to the bilge,

The decision was made to floor extensions in order to run the flooring out around the framing and to the hull.

Galley ~ New Galley Wall - First 3" battens were cut that would serve as screw strips. The screw strips were fastened under the existing floor using a 3" screw pattern.

With the screw strips fastened in place, 3/4" flooring extensions were measured, cut and dry flitted in place. The extensions were continually dry fitted and trimmed until a smooth clean fit of the new and old deck was achieved.

The extensions were then fastened to the screw strips.

Galley ~ New Galley Wall - When the Galley was de-constructed there was no back wall under the cabinetry. The decision was made to install a back wall before building the new cabinetry.

A new back wall was cut from a single sheet of Luan. The new back wall was continually dry fitted and trimmed until a smooth clean fit between the old and new and new wall was achieved.

3" screw strip battens were cut and slipped under the old wall. The old and new walls were then fastened to the screw battens using #6 1/2" stainless steel screws on a 3" screw pattern.

Galley ~ New Galley Wall - The new woodwork was also secured using West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with West System 404 high-density filler. After the epoxy had dried it was smoothed using 120-grit sandpaper.

The gaps, seams and voids were then filled with a fairing compound of West System 105 / 205 epoxy thickened with System Three - Phenolic Microballoons. After the fairing compound had dried, it was smoothed using 120-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

Galley ~ New Galley Wall - In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer were rolled and tipped using a 1/8” nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After each coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper.

Galley ~ New Counter Top - On an old wooden boat there are rarely true right angels or straight walls or level flooring. The galley was thoroughly measured in order to find the the high points in the floor. With the high point established a lazier level and framing square were used to mark the height of the new counter top on the walls.

Using the established height marks, a ledger board was then fastened to the walls that will help support the counter top.

The first of several counter tops was cut from 3/4" plywood and dry fitted to the aft wall.

Galley ~ New Counter Top - In order to get a clean tight fit to the three walls the new counter top was cut as two separate sections. Each section was scribed and trimmed to fit without any gaps. The outer edges were also back cut to help insure a tight fit.

With the two pieces trimmed and fitting snugly the two pieces were joined together with #20 biscuits. The two ends and biscuit slots were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that were thickened with West System 404 high-density filler and the pieces fitted together. While the epoxy was still wet the two parts of the counter tops were covered with wax paper. A piece of scrap was then fastened on to the tops in order to pull the two pieces up even.

Galley ~ New Counter Top - After the epoxy had dried for two days the top and bottom was sanded smooth. The seam between the two sheets was then filled with a fairing compound of West System 105 / 205 epoxy thickened with System Three - Phenolic Microballoons. After the fairing compound had dried, it was smoothed using 120-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

The outside edge around the entire counter top was strengthened and built-up with 3/4 x 3" edge strips. A strengthen strip was also fastened to the underside of the top where the two pieces joined together.

Galley ~ New Counter Divider - The under counter dividers and supports were rough cut and then scribed to the outer hull wall and floor. A vertical screw strip was fastened to the outer hull wall for the divider to be fasten to.

Galley ~ New Counter Top - The counter top was covered with Wilsonart D30 Natural Almond laminate. Almond was chosen as a neutral contrasting color to the White and mahogany. The mastic was rolled on the wood and laminate and allowed to set-up. Dowels were laid down and the laminate laid on top. The dowels were then removed one at a time and the laminate pressed down with a "J" roller. The edges of the laminate were trimmed using a laminate trimmer with a flush-cutting bit and the top dry fitted to the three walls.

The opening for the stainless steel sink was cut-out, trimmed and the sink dry fitted.

Galley ~ New Counter Front - The cabinet front was rough cut from a single sheet of 3/4" stock and then trimmed to dry fit the under side of the counter top.

Galley ~ New Counter Floor & Shelf - With the front removed a new raised floor and 2/3 deep shelf was rough cut from 3/4" stock. The back edges of the floor and shelf were scribed in to fit, and then back cut 7° for a tight fit to the wall. The outside of the shelf was then strengthened and built-up with 3/4 x 3" edge strip.

In order to add support to the cabinet floor three evenly spaced floor supports were cut, dry fitted and fastened to the cabin sole.

An opening was cut in the hull side wall in order to connect the drain from the sink. A covering board will later be fitted to the opening and the drain line.

Galley ~ New Counter Floor & Shelf - The counter floor and shelf were covered with Wilsonart D30 Natural Almond laminate. Almond was chosen as a neutral contrasting color to the White and mahogany. The mastic was rolled on the wood and laminate and allowed to set-up. Dowels were laid down and the laminate laid on top. The dowels were then removed one at a time and the laminate pressed down with a "J" roller. The edges of the laminate were trimmed using a laminate trimmer with a flush-cutting bit and the top dry fitted to the three walls.

The Sub-Zero under-counter refrigerator & freezer was dry fitted to the opening and leveled

Galley ~ New Counter Floor & Shelf - The decision was made to trim the openings and exposed edges with mahogany trim molding.

New ¼” x 1” mahogany molding strips were cut. The top edge of the cabinet would be trimmed with ¼” x 3" - "J" molding. With the molding rough cut, the outboard edge of the molding was rounded-over with a 1/2" round-over bit. A Dremmel contour sander was used to smooth the rounded edge of the new molding. The wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

Galley ~ Upper Side Cabinet - The upper side cabinet face frame, side board and inside shelf were cut from 3/4" stock and scribed in for a tight dry fit.

Galley ~ Upper Side Cabinet - The front, side and shelf were covered with Wilsonart D30 Natural Almond laminate. Almond was chosen as a neutral contrasting color to the White and mahogany. The mastic was rolled on the wood and laminate and allowed to set-up. Dowels were laid down and the laminate laid on top. The dowels were then removed one at a time and the laminate pressed down with a "J" roller. The edges of the laminate were trimmed using a laminate trimmer with a flush-cutting bit.

The decision was made to trim the openings and exposed edges with mahogany trim molding. New ¼” x 1” mahogany molding strips were cut. With the molding rough cut, the outboard edge of the molding was rounded-over with a 1/2" round-over bit. A Dremmel contour sander was used to smooth the rounded edge of the new molding. The wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

The wood was painted with the grain with Interlux – #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel.

The molding was then fastened in place using #16 - 1” brass escutcheon pins.

Galley ~ Upper Front Cabinet - The upper front cabinet face frame, was cut from 3/4" stock and fitted snug to the opening.

A ledger board for the back support of the cabinet top was cut. The vertical curvature of the hull in the galley ran from 10° at one end to 15° at the other. The ledger board was back-cut at 12° to so that the cabinet top would sit flat on it. The ledger strip was leveled fore and aft then fastened into the hull main frames.

The two dividers for the front cabinet were cut and dry-fitted.

Galley ~ Upper Front Cabinet - The face face frame was secured to the dividers. The top was fastened to the face frame and dividers.

Galley ~ Upper Front Cabinet - The front and top were covered with Wilsonart D30 Natural Almond laminate. Almond was chosen as a neutral contrasting color to the White and mahogany. The mastic was rolled on the wood and laminate and allowed to set-up. Dowels were laid down and the laminate laid on top. The dowels were then removed one at a time and the laminate pressed down with a "J" roller. The edges of the laminate were trimmed using a laminate trimmer with a flush-cutting bit.

The new front cabinet was then scribed into the sides and back.

Galley ~ Upper Front Cabinet - The top of the inboard edge of the upper cabinet was edge trimmed with "L" shaped - 7/8" x 7/8" mahogany molding. A 2 1/2" x 1" pin-rail was then installed on top of the edge molding.

¼” x 1” mahogany molding strips were cut for the three openings. With the molding rough cut, the outboard edge of the molding was rounded-over with a 1/2" round-over bit. A Dremmel contour sander was used to smooth the rounded edge of the new molding. The wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

All the new molding was painted with the grain with Interlux – #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel.

The moldings were then fastened in place using #16 - 1” brass escutcheon pins.

Galley ~ Upper Side Cabinet - The length, width and depth of the new microwave was measured and transferred to the counter top and side wall. Quarter inch strips were fastened to the counter top to act as stops in order to keep the microwave from sliding during rough seas.

Galley ~ Upper Side Cabinet - The side and top of the microwave cabinet were cut from 3/4" stock and scribed into place. Access holes were drilled in the back of the counter top to allow for ventilation and access for electrical and water connections.

Galley ~ Upper Side Cabinet - The length, width and depth of the ice-maker was measured and transferred to the top of the microwave cabinet and side wall. 5/8" strips were fastened to the top of the microwave cabinet to act as supports for the ice-maker.

The side of the ice-maker cabinet were cut from 3/4" stock and scribed into place.

Galley ~ Upper Side Cabinet - With the base structure of the two cabinets cut and fitted the microwave and ice-maker were fitted to the cabinetry to refine the fit and determine the layout of the molding

Galley ~ Upper Side Cabinet - The cabinet with mahogany molding.

All the new molding was painted with the grain with Interlux 573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel.

The moldings were then fastened in place. /td>

Galley ~ Electric Range - The old Princess electric range had aged poorly and was looking long in the tooth. The decision was made to replace the range with a new one.

With the old range removed it was found that the original, manufactured supplied cabinet was assembled with thin, prad type nails and that the cabinet was coming apart. The frame was refastened using flat head screws that were countersunk into the wood. The cabinet was sanded smooth with 120-grit paper.

The inside and outside of the draw were sanded with 120-grit paper. After vacuuming the insides and outside sides were finished with Minwax Wood Finish – Fruitwood 241.

Galley ~ Electric Range - The side, front and draw front of the range cabinet was covered with Wilsonart D30 Natural Almond laminate. Almond was chosen as a neutral contrasting color to the White and mahogany. The mastic was rolled on the wood and laminate and allowed to set-up. Dowels were laid down and the laminate laid on top. The dowels were then removed one at a time and the laminate pressed down with a "J" roller. The edges of the laminate were trimmed using a laminate trimmer with a flush-cutting bit.

The decision was made to trim the edge of the draw front with mahogany trim molding. New ¼” x 5/8” mahogany molding strips were cut. With the molding rough cut, the outboard edge of the molding was rounded-over with a 1/2" round-over bit. A Dremmel contour sander was used to smooth the rounded edge of the new molding. The wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

The molding was painted with the grain with Interlux – #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel.

The molding was then fastened in place using #18 - 3/4” brass escutcheon pins.

Galley ~ Electric Range - A new Princess range was dry fitted to the opening of the repaired cabinet.