R Lazarette

Lazarette - The open deck seams and loose deck fittings caused rainwater to leak down into the sub decking and cabins below. The leaking rainwater caused the wood to rot and develop mold and mildew on the walls and overhead.

The original steel fuel and water tanks were badly rusted. That is, the two, two hundred gallon diesel fuel tanks that sit on the port and starboard side and the 125 gallon water tank sits in the middle.

Everything that was not fastened down was removed. An initial cleaning and detailed inspection was begun.

In order to present a clean neat appearance, any unused brackets, screws, plumbing or wiring was removed. Any protruding screws were cut off. The hull frames, seam battens and planks were scraped and vacuumed. The inside planking, seam battens and hull frames were cleaned with a mixture of water, TSP and bleach.

Using the old tanks as a pattern three new, custom made, ABYC approved, 5086-H116 aluminum tanks were fabricated and installed.

Orientation: Facing port side hull and new tanks..

Lazarette - To help promote ventilation and drainage the new fuel and water tanks were placed on top of "Dri-Dek" self -draining, interlocking panels. The tanks were all double strapped with 1/8" x 1" aluminum for added safety and security.

Per the USCC publication NVIC 7-95 abandoned screw holes were re-drilled and then plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

The Lazarette was then painted using Interlux - #863 Bilgekote - Gray.

Orientation: Facing port side

Lazarette ~ Rudder Port - The starboard rudder port had a constant leak and was much greater when underway. Under the guiding principal of what is done to one side should be done to the other, the decision was made to drop both rudders and inspect both rudder ports.

Orientation: Facing toward the starboard side.

Lazarette ~ Rudder Port - The swing arms and rudder port were removed and cleaned with a power wire brush for inspection.

Lazarette ~ Rudder Port - Disassembling the rudder port revealed that the starboard rudder port backing plate (mahogany wedge) was completely rotted and the cause of the leak in the Lazarette. (The purpose of the wedges is to keep the rudders perpendicular to he keel given the curvature of the boat bottom.)

Using the good port side rudder port backing plate and portions of the starboard side plate a new starboard side wedge was cut and shaped. The backing plate needed to be tapered 7 degrees athwartships and 3 degrees fore and aft.

Lazarette ~ Rudder Port - There was some surface rot on the inside of the bottom around the rudder port bolt holes and opening for the rudder port.

The inside and outside of the bottom hull around the openings for the rudders and bolts were sanded smooth. The wood was painted with three applications of West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. The epoxy was applied with a foam roller and then tipped off with a brush to remove any bubbles. When applied, the diluted mixture soaks into the wood, where the epoxy cures and the solvent evaporates. The process dramatically slows the migration of moisture, but does not act as a "water-proofer." After each application had dried for 24 hours, it was lightly sanded with 120-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with West System 404 high-density filler was used to fill the small depressions left from the rot.

Orientation: Facing starboard side bottom showing hole for rudder hardware.

Lazarette ~ Rudder Port - The inside hull bottom was painted with two coats of Interlux - #863 Bilgekote - Gray

Both rudder port backing plates were thoroughly coated with 3M-4200 and then fastened to the bottom with 1 1/2" silicon bronze screws.

The rudder ports were then installed after being coated with heave beads of 3M-4200

Orientation: Facing starboard side bottom showing the rudder port hardware and the rudder port backing plate.

Lazarette ~ Rudder Port - The old packing was removed from the packing nut and the inside threads thoroughly cleaned with a power wire wheel.

Lazarette ~ Rudder Port - The packing nut was re-packed with five separate 6" rings of 1/4" x 1/4" waxed flax packing tightly fitted inside the packing nut. The packing rings were aligned so that none of the seam ends were on top of one another.

Once replaced, the nut should is retightened to stop all water from coming in, but not so tight as to restrict the movement of the rudder.

Lazarette ~ Rudder Port - The ruder was then fitted back through the ruder port and supported in place with blocks on the ground. The rudder port was checked for leaks when the boat was but back in the water and while underway.

Orientation: Facing starboard side bottom showing the rudder port hardware and the rudder port backing plate.

Lazarette ~ Rudder Port - Because of the planned installation of hydraulic steering a new Rudder Shelf Board was needed to support the hydraulic steering ram that would move the rudders.

A 16' x 12" x 7/8" board was cut in half and the two half were glued together with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with West System 404 high-density filler and #12 - 1 1/2" stainless steel screws.

Orientation: Looking down on the new rudder shelf board.

Lazarette ~ Hydraulic Steering & Auto Pilot - The old rusty galvanized steering pipes were broken and in need of major repair. The decision was made to install a Teleflex � SeaStar Pro Hydraulic Steering system and remove all of the old mechanical steering.

The old rusty galvanized tie-rod pipe that connected the two rudders was used as pattern for a new stainless steel tie-rod.

The hydraulic steering piston was marked at fully extended point and fully collapsed point then measured and mark at the mid-point of the piston travel.

The rudders were align with a slight toe-in. The clevis on the tie-rod ends were adjust to fit rudder position. The hydraulic ram piston was bolted to �L� bracket using stainless steel bolt, flat washer and lock nut. The hydraulic ram piston was positioned at the marked midpoint. The ram was then fasten to the rudder shelf board with carriage bolts, washers and lock nuts.

Orientation: Facing port side bottom showing the hydraulic steering ram and piston.

Lazarette ~ Rudder Angle Indicator - The installation of the new Raymarine auto-pilot system required the installing of a Rudder Angle Indicator. The exact positioning of the indicator was critical with little room for tolerance.

The Rudder Angle Indicator needed to fit under the Rudder Shelf Board. In order to get the proper positioning a 1/8" piece of Aluminum was fabricated. Screw holes were drilled in the top for the Aluminum bracket that would e used to fasten the indicator. Elongated screw holes were also drilled in the side of the Aluminum bracket for securing the bracket to a main bottom frame.

Orientation: Looking down on the Aluminum bracket for the Rudder Angle Indicator.

Lazarette ~ Rudder Angle Indicator - After repeated dry fitting and measuring the Rudder Angle Indicator was securely fastened to the Aluminum bracket with bolts, washers and lock nuts.

Orientation: Looking at the secured Rudder Angle Indicator before final installation..

Lazarette ~ Trim Tabs - The Bennett trim tabs were not working. Checking the Hydraulic Power Unit showed that the reservoir was empty. The reservoir was filled with Automatic transmission Fluid as indicated and the air purged from the system.

The first time the trim tabs were used the boat started to porpoise up and down as if the trim tabs were engaging and disengaging. A detailed inspection revealed that the fittings attaching the hydraulic tubing at the hydraulic power unit were leaking ATF fluid. The two fittings were found to be tight but still leaking. Removing the tubing nuts revealed that the nuts and internal ferrules were of two different sizes and types and that both ferrules were bent out of shape.

The tubing ends were cut square and two new nuts and ferrules installed. The system was again filled with ATF and the air purged.

Orientation: Looking down at the trim tabs hydraulic power unit .

Lazarette ~ Starboard Intermediate Frame - The last intermediate frame on the starboard side was completely rotted and crumbling. New hull planking and seam battens had already been installed and so it was time to address the rotting intermediate frame.

Per the USCC publication NVIC 7-95 abandoned screw holes were re-drilled and then plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

Orientation: Facing starboard side hull at the transom.

Lazarette ~ Starboard Intermediate Frame - The decision was made to use a �simple scarf joint� technique to make the repairs to the bad frame. The bad intermediate hull frame was cut back to solid good wood. Next, an 8:1 scarf was cut in the remaining good wood of the hull frame. Following that, a template was made that conformed to the shape of the hull where the new intermediate hull frame was to be attached..

Orientation: Looking at where the new laminated intermediate hull frame will go.

Lazarette ~ Starboard Intermediate Frame - The old intermediate hull frame and template was used as a pattern to help establish the correct hull curve. A sheet of aluminum siding was used to scribe the line of arc of the old hull frame.

Given the curve of the frame and the thickness of the intermediate frame the decision was made to manufacture the new frame from laminated mahogany strips.

A clamping batten was fastened along the the curve of the old rub rail on the top of the aluminum siding.

Mahogany stock was cut into 1/4" strips. The strips were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with West System 404 high-density filler. Wax paper was wrapped over the curve batten. The epoxy coated strips were then clamped to the curve batten and allowed to dry.

Orientation: Looking at the new laminated intermediate hull frame in the clamps.

Lazarette ~ Starboard Intermediate Frame - After drying, the new intermediate frame was sanded clean with 60-grit paper to remove all of the epoxy squeeze-out.

Orientation: Looking at the new laminated intermediate hull frame next to the pattern batten.

Lazarette ~ Starboard Intermediate Frame - The new intermediate hull frame were painted with three applications of West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. The epoxy was applied with a foam roller and then tipped off with a brush to remove any bubbles. When applied, the diluted mixture soaks into the wood, where the epoxy cures and the solvent evaporates. The process dramatically slows the migration of moisture, but does not act as a "water-proofer." After each application had dried for 24 hours, it was lightly sanded with 120-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

The hull planks were fastened to the new intermediate frame using #12 - 2" silicon bronze screws.

Orientation: Looking at the new laminated intermediate hull frame after fastening.

Lazarette ~ Starboard - In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux � Pre-Kote White primer were rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After each coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper.

Orientation: Looking at the repaired hull frame and first coat of finish paint.