R Owners Cabin

Owner's Cabin ~ Starboard Side - The open deck seams and loose deck fittings caused rainwater to leak down into the sub decking and cabin below. The leaking rainwater caused the wood to rot and develop mold and mildew on the walls and overhead.

The original bedding manufactured by Zeno Mattress & Marine in Fort Lauderdale, FL was damp to the touch. The portlights were leaking as well as the overhead hatch. The insides of the closets were dirty and mildewed.

Owner's Cabin ~ Starboard Side - Everything that was not fastened down was removed. Next came the initial cleaning and then a detailed inspection.

Owner's Cabin ~ Port Side Closet - A boarding ladder was going to be installed that required through-hull bolting. In order to gain access to the upper hull to secure the bolts and backing-plate the non-working, decades old Yacht Air Corp. - Comfort System air conditioner, which was slated for eventual replacement, was removed. The AC unit supplies cool air to both the Owner's Cabin and the Aft Guest Cabin.

First the shelving and pegboard wall covering was removed.

Owner's Cabin ~ Port Side Closet - The front cover board was removed to gain access to the air conditioner compartment. The rusting coil and drain pan were then removed. The electrical wiring, coolant supply and return, and drain line were then cut away. The old horsehair type insulation that was glued onto all the surfaces of the air conditioner compartment needed to be removed. In order to present a clean neat appearance, any other unused brackets, screws, plumbing or wiring was removed. Any protruding screws were cut off.

With the removal of the air conditioner coil and insulation, and the dismantling of the compartment, it was obvious that a seam-batten was missing from the inside of the upper hull planking. Daylight could be seen through the seam of the uncaulked top two planks. Just as obvious was the rotting intermediate framing. A much closer inspection revealed that the tops and of the two hull frames on each side of the hull frame were rotting.

Owner's Cabin ~ Port Side Closet - The closet walls were painted with multiple applications of Strypeeze paint and varnish remover followed by hand scraping to remove the accumulated the old finish.

Any nicks, dings, scratches or blemishes were repaired using Famowood mahogany wood filler. With the surface repaired, the wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer was applied using a 3” - 1/8” nap foam roller. After drying, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then painted with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Owner's Cabin ~ Port Side Closet - New Shelving was cut and dry fitted.

The wood was covered with Almond laminate. Almond was chosen as a neutral contrasting color to the White and mahogany. The mastic was rolled on the wood and laminate and allowed to set-up. Dowels were laid down and the laminate laid on top. The dowels were then removed one at a time and the laminate pressed down with a "J" roller. The edges of the laminate were trimmed using a laminate trimmer with a flush-cutting bit.

New mahogany molding strips were cut to the standard Chris*Craft size of 1/4" x 1". With the wood rough cut, the molding was dry fitted and pre-drilled for fastening. One edge of the wood was rounded-over with a 1/2" round-over bit. A Dremmel contour sander was used to smooth the rounded edge of the new molding. The front face was faired using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

The woodwork was painted with the grain with Interlux – #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel. After the stain had dried for 24 hours it was rubbed down with a Green (Medium) 3M Scotch-Brite Pad.

The molding was then fastened in place using #16 - 1� brass escutcheon pins.

The molding was painted with three applications of West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. The epoxy was applied with a foam roller and then tipped off with a brush to remove any bubbles. When applied, the diluted mixture soaks into the wood, where the epoxy cures and the solvent evaporates. The process dramatically slows the migration of moisture, but does not act as a "water-proofer." After each application had dried for 24 hours, it was lightly sanded with 120-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

Owner's Cabin ~ Port Side - The inside wall was removed in order to gain access to the outside planking and inside seam-battens and hull frames.

Owner's Cabin ~ Port Side - New mahogany seam-battens were cut and fitted horizontally into the cutouts in the hull frames. Next vertical filler blocks were cut and fitted vertically in between the horizontal seam-battens. Finally, five new 1" mahogany planks were cut and fitted to the hull framing. The new planks were cut to fit snug along their length. New #12 - 2 1/2" silicon-bronze screws were then used to refasten the planks to the hull frames.

Owner's Cabin ~ Wall Panel - The outer wall was originally built by Chris-Craft as a complete subassembly. Removing the screws around the edges of the wall freed it up.

Abandoned screw holes were plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

Over the years and owners, many different types of stains, colors, tints, sealers and varnishes had been used on the boat. The net effect was that the exposed mahogany woodwork did not have a uniform color, texture or finish. The decision was made to try to achieve a level of consistency. In order to achieve a uniform look the decision was made to strip, sand, stain and refinish all the wood.

The woodwork was first painted with multiple applications of Strypeeze paint and varnish remover followed by hand scraping to remove the accumulated old finish.

Any nicks, dings, scratches or blemishes were repaired using Famowood mahogany wood filler. With the surface repaired, the wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

The woodwork was painted with the grain with Interlux – #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel. After the stain had dried for 24 hours it was rubbed down with a Green (Medium) 3M Scotch-Brite Pad.

Using a 1/8" nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush the woodwork was rolled and tipped with six applications of Interlux - #95 - Goldspar Varnish. Before the last coat was applied, the previous coats were block sanded with 220-grit sandpaper and then everything was vacuumed and wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

The wall assembly contained a small open, recessed storage pocket. The backer-board for the pocket was delaminating around the outer edges, which meant it was the next item due for replacement. First, the length and width of a replacement panel was cut from 1/4" Luan and dry fitted.

The outboard side of the wood was painted with three applications of West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. The epoxy was applied with a foam roller and then tipped off with a brush to remove any bubbles. When applied, the diluted mixture soaks into the wood, where the epoxy cures and the solvent evaporates. The process dramatically slows the migration of moisture, but does not act as a "water-proofer." After each application had dried for 24 hours, it was lightly sanded with 120-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer was applied using a 3” - 1/8” nap foam roller. After drying, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then painted with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

The new backer board was then fastened to the wall frame with #6 - 1" stainless steal screws.

Owner's Cabin ~ Portlight - The portlight panels were rotting. The rot was caused by water coming down from open deck seams above.

A replacement panel was measured and cut from 1/4" Luan and dry fitted. The new panel was tacked in place and the portlight opening was drawn on the outside. A jigsaw was used to cut out the opening for the portlight.

The outside of the new panel was painted with three applications of West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. The epoxy was applied with a foam roller and then tipped off with a brush to remove any bubbles. When applied, the diluted mixture soaks into the wood, where the epoxy cures and the solvent evaporates. The process dramatically slows the migration of moisture, but does not act as a "water-proofer." After each application had dried for 24 hours, it was lightly sanded with 220-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

In preparation for finish paint, the inside of the new panel was painted with two coats of Interlux � Pre-Kote White primer. The paint was rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After each coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Owner's Cabin ~ Portlight - The portlights were leaking. In removing the Aluminum portlights, it was interesting to find that the some of the portlights had been bedded and sealed with an assorted mixture of window glazing compound, polysulfide and 3M-5200. It appeared that each layer of goop was applied on top of the previous layer. It was obviously a poor way of sealing the portlight to the hull and flashing. Additionally, over the years, and owners, the type and size of fasteners that were used on the portlights had evolved so that very little was common or standardized. The Aluminum portlights showed years of accumulated paint and corrosion. The decision was made to strip and refinish them.

The old portlight gasket material was removed. A high-speed wire wheel was used to clean the accumulated paint and corrosion from the portlight bolts, nuts, washers and dogs. The front and backsides of the portlights including the aluminum portlight dogs were sprayed with two coats of Rust-Oleum Red Primer. After drying overnight, they were again sprayed with two coats of Rust-Oleum Gloss White Appliance Spray Paint. The bolts, nuts and the inside of the dogs were painted with Never-Seez grease. New gasket was then fitted and secured with contact cement.

Owner's Cabin ~ Portlight Insert - The portlight inserts that were previously made were painted with two coats of Interlux - Dark Blue.

The two coats of paint were rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the inserts were vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Owner's Cabin ~ Port Side - The panel was fastened in place using #16 - 1” brass escutcheon pins. The opening for the portlights was then finished with a jig saw and sander.

The outside fiberglass portlight insert was heavily coated with 3M-4200 and then inserted into the opening. The insert was then fastened to the hull with #8 - 1" stainless steel screws.

The backside of the portlight was heavily coated with 3M-4200 and the portlight inserted into the opening. The portlight was then fastened in place using #14 - 2" stainless steel oval head screws. The screws were lightly screwed in. The following day the screws were tightened down.

Owner's Cabin ~ Port Side - An examination of the white paint that covered some of the walls showed that there could easily be forty years of built-up paint. The woodwork was painted with multiple applications of Strypeeze paint and varnish remover followed by hand scraping to remove the accumulated the old finish.

Any nicks, dings, scratches or blemishes were repaired using Famowood mahogany wood filler. With the surface repaired, the wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

It was interesting to discover that at some time in the early years of the boat someone had painter the entire cabin with Turquoise paint. Apparently, subsequent owners did not like the color and painted over it with white.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer was applied using a 3” - 1/8” nap foam roller. After drying, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then painted with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Over the years and owners, many different types of stains, colors, tints, sealers and varnishes had been used on the boat. The net effect was that the exposed mahogany woodwork did not have a uniform color, texture or finish. The decision was made to try to achieve a level of consistency. In order to achieve a uniform look the decision was made to strip, sand, stain and refinish all the wood.

The woodwork was first painted with multiple applications of Strypeeze paint and varnish remover followed by hand scraping to remove the accumulated old finish.

Any nicks, dings, scratches or blemishes were repaired using Famowood mahogany wood filler. With the surface repaired, the wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

The woodwork was painted with the grain with Interlux – #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel. After the stain had dried for 24 hours it was rubbed down with a Green (Medium) 3M Scotch-Brite Pad.

Using a 1/8" nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush the woodwork was rolled and tipped with six applications of Interlux - #95 - Goldspar Varnish. Before the last coat was applied, the previous coats were block sanded with 220-grit sandpaper and then everything was vacuumed and wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

The overhead outboard edge molding was then fastened in place using #6 - 1” stainless steel screws and finish washers.

New mahogany molding strips were cut to the standard Chris*Craft size of 1/4" x 1". With the wood rough cut, the molding was dry fitted and pre-drilled for fastening. One edge of the wood was rounded-over with a 1/2" round-over bit. A Dremmel contour sander was used to smooth the rounded edge of the new molding. The front face was faired using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

All of the hardware was soaked in full strength ammonia for a week in order to loosen all of the old paint, stain, varnish and green patina. The parts were then scrubbed with a stiff bristle nylon brush and rinsed clean. The mechanical parts were sprayed with WD40 to lubricate and protect them. All of the hardware was then reinstalled using same size and types of fasteners.

Owner's Cabin - Starboard Side - The installation of the fiberglass portlight inserts that were manufactured previously began on the starboard side. Removing the portlights and metal flashing revealed that the surrounding hull frame heads were rotting. In order to get to the rotting hull frames the outer wall in the cabin needed to be removed.

Owner's Cabin - Starboard Side - The outer wall was originally built by Chris-Craft as a complete subassembly. Removing the screws around the edges of the wall freed it up.

Owner's Cabin - Starboard Side - The decision was made to use a ‘simple scarf joint’ technique to make the repairs to the bad hull frames. Each bad hull frame was cut back to solid good wood. Next, an 8:1 scarf was cut in the remaining good wood of the hull frame. Following that, a cardboard template was made that conformed to the shape of the hull where the new hull frame was to be attached. New hull frame members were cut from 1 ½” * 6” White Oak planks. Then new hull frames were cut with the same 8:1 diagonal cut. The two pieces were then buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that were thickened with West System 404 high-density filler. Last, while the epoxy was still wet the two pieces were fastened with #12 - 2" silicon-bronze screws. After the epoxy had cured for a week the deck beams were reattached to the hull frames with new stainless steel carriage bolts.

The aft portion of the closet wall had been attached to one of the rotting hull frames. The wall had also rotted like the hull frame that it was originally attached to. A two-foot section of the closet wall was cut away with one long vertical cut from bottom to top.

Owner's Cabin - Starboard Side - The exposed hull planking and framing were inspected and found to be dirty but sound.

In order to present a clean neat appearance, any unused brackets, screws, plumbing or wiring was removed. Any protruding screws were cut off.

The hull frames, seam battens and planks were scraped and vacuumed. Even though it would not be seen all the inside planking, seam battens and hull frames were cleaned with a mixture of water, TSP and bleach.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer was applied using a 3” - 1/8” nap foam roller. After drying, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then painted with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

The wire runs and plumbing were hanging either loose or bundled together with cable ties of varied sizes and types. In order to present a clean neat appearance, the old cable ties, clamps, mounts and fasteners were removed. The loose wiring was segregated by voltage and then the plumbing and wire were dressed to the hull frames with nylon cable clamps. The clamps were fastened using #8 - ¾" pan head stainless steel screws.

Owner's Cabin ~ Starboard Side - The panel on the Starboard Side of the owners cabin was rotting. The rot was caused by water coming down from open deck seams above.

A replacement panel was measured and cut from 1/4" Luan and dry fitted.

The wood was painted with three applications of West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. The epoxy was applied with a foam roller and then tipped off with a brush to remove any bubbles. When applied, the diluted mixture soaks into the wood, where the epoxy cures and the solvent evaporates. The process dramatically slows the migration of moisture, but does not act as a "water-proofer." After each application had dried for 24 hours, it was lightly sanded with 220-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

Owner's Cabin - Starboard Side - The panel was fastened in place using #16 - 1� brass escutcheon pins. The opening for the portlights was then finished with a jig saw and sander.

The backside of the portlight was heavily coated with 3M-4200 and the portlight inserted into the opening. The portlight was then fastened in place using #14 - 2" stainless steel oval head screws. The screws were lightly screwed in. The following day the screws were tightened down.

Owner's Cabin - Starboard Closet - A casual inspection of the closet did not reveal any significant problems.

However, after removing the shelving and perforated pressed wood backer-board a more detailed inspection revealed that there were things that needed attention.

The top of the hull frame head had previously been cut off. and the corresponding partial deck beam was just hanging free meaning that it was not attached to a hull frame or the sheer plank. The assumption was that the hull frame head was rotted. Apparently, someone in the past had started to make a repair and never finished it.

Owner's Cabin - Starboard Closet - A new hull frame head top was cut and fastened to the hull frame with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with West System 404 high-density filler.

The ceiling or exposed underside of the subdecking in the closet had a plywood battens running down their center. Removing the battens revealed that the seams of the sub-decking had been glued together with 3M 5200.

The old 3M 5200 was dug out using a pocket-knife. The insides of the reefed seams were then cleaned using acetone. The sub-decking was then sanded clean with 60-grit sandpaper. The seams were filled with caulking cotton that was saturated with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with West System 404 high-density filler.

The sub-decking was was painted with three applications of West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. The epoxy was applied with a foam roller and then tipped off with a brush to remove any bubbles. When applied, the diluted mixture soaks into the wood, where the epoxy cures and the solvent evaporates. The process dramatically slows the migration of moisture, but does not act as a "water-proofer." After each application had dried for 24 hours, it was lightly sanded with 120-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

Even though it would not be seen all the inside planking and hull frames were cleaned with a mixture of water, TSP and bleach.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer was applied using a 3” - 1/8” nap foam roller. After drying, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then painted with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Owner's Cabin - Starboard Closet - When the back wall was removed the screw strips that the wall attaches to fell off as well. The old screw strips were ¾” steam bent pieces of mahogany. The decision was made to use laminated strips instead of steam bending. First small stop blocks were cut. The stop blocks were then fastened to a plank in the shape of one of the old screw strips. Next, 1” x ¼” mahogany strips were cut. The strips were then buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with West System 404 high-density filler. The strips were then clamped-up against the stop blocks into 1” x ¾” bundles. The four bundles were separated with wax paper. After drying, the new screw strips were sanded clean and installed.

Owner's Cabin - Starboard side - New shelves were cut from 3/4" stock and dry fitted.

The wood was covered with Almond laminate. Almond was chosen as a neutral contrasting color to the White and mahogany. The mastic was rolled on the wood and laminate and allowed to set-up. Dowels were laid down and the laminate laid on top. The dowels were then removed one at a time and the laminate pressed down with a "J" roller. The edges of the laminate were trimmed using a laminate trimmer with a flush-cutting bit.

New mahogany molding strips were cut to the standard Chris*Craft size of 1/4" x 1". With the wood rough cut, the molding was dry fitted and pre-drilled for fastening. One edge of the wood was rounded-over with a 1/2" round-over bit. A Dremmel contour sander was used to smooth the rounded edge of the new molding. The front face was faired using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

The woodwork was painted with the grain with Interlux – #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel. After the stain had dried for 24 hours it was rubbed down with a Green (Medium) 3M Scotch-Brite Pad.

The molding was then fastened in place using #16 - 1� brass escutcheon pins.

The molding was painted with three applications of West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. The epoxy was applied with a foam roller and then tipped off with a brush to remove any bubbles. When applied, the diluted mixture soaks into the wood, where the epoxy cures and the solvent evaporates. The process dramatically slows the migration of moisture, but does not act as a "water-proofer." After each application had dried for 24 hours, it was lightly sanded with 120-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

Owner's Cabin - Starboard Closet - The original wall mounted chrome light fixtures were removed for cleaning and re-wiring. New 14 gauges multiple strand marine wire was installed back to the service panel. New mahogany wire cover molding was then milled and mounted. Last, the original fixtures were installed back in their original locations and covered with a new shade.

The closets were completed by first installing 1 - 3/8 inches, white plastic, coat closet-rod end caps. Then a 1 - 3/8 hardwood coat closet rod. Last, two white plastic double wall mount coat hooks were fastened to each side of the closet wall.

Owners Cabin ~ Ceiling Boards - Before Chris-Craft began installing headliners they originally installed mahogany ceiling slats on the outboard edge of the open beam ceiling of the below deck cabins. Their objective was to provide a clean look and screen the view of the bolts, nuts and backer plate hardware that secured the many deck stanchions and cleats. Sometime in the past, these skirt boards had been removed in most of the cabins. The decision was made to reinstall overhead slats wherever they were missing.

Using the few ceiling slat boards that were still onboard as a model, new 3� x �� mahogany slats were cut. The edges were then rounded over with a �� round-over bit. With the slats cut to length, the wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

The woodwork was painted with the grain with Interlux – #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel. After the stain had dried for 24 hours it was rubbed down with a Green (Medium) 3M Scotch-Brite Pad.

Using a 1/8" nap foam roller and a 3" foam brush the woodwork was rolled and tipped with six applications of Interlux - #95 - Goldspar Varnish. Before the last coat was applied, the previous coats were block sanded with 220-grit sandpaper then vacuumed and wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Owner's Cabin ~ Ceiling Boards - The overhead outboard ceiling edge slats was fastened to the exposed deck beams using #6 - 1� stainless steel oval head screws and finish washers. The slats were positioned with 1� spacing in between the two slats and away from the out board edge.

With the help of the Internet, original Kirsch 7000 series Window Treatment Roding Hardware was acquired from auctions.

All of the hardware was soaked in full strength ammonia for a week in order to loosen all of the old paint, stain, varnish and green patina. The parts were then scrubbed with a stiff bristle nylon brush and rinsed clean. The mechanical parts were sprayed with WD40 to lubricate and protect them. All of the hardware was then reinstalled using same size and types of fasteners.

Owner's Cabin ~ Storage Draws - The horizontal draw tracks that guided the under bunk drawers and their vertical supports were damaged, poorly repaired or broken. No two pieces of track or support were alike.

The decision was made to replace the old draw tracks and supports. As before, various types and sizes of fasteners had been used to secure the old track and supports. Measuring different pieces from the forward cabin, owners cabin and the aft guest cabin as guides new mahogany draw tracks and their supports were cut. The new tracks and supports were then fitted straight and boat level and fastened in place using new #8 - 1 1/2" stainless steel screws.

In order to present a clean neat appearance, any unused brackets, screws, plumbing or wiring was removed. Any protruding hull screws were cut off.

Owner's Cabin ~ Storage Draws - In order to present a clean appearance the under bunk storage draws were repaired and refinished.

The inside and outside of the draws were sanded with 120-grit paper. After vacuuming the insides and outsides were finished with Minwax Wood Finish � Fruitwood 241.

New nylon draw guides were installed with stainless steel screws on the back of the draws.

Owner's Cabin ~ Bed Boards - The bed boards showed their age with accumulated paint, nicks, dings and gouges. The decision was made to overhaul them.

The nicks, dings, scratches and blemishes were repaired using Famowood mahogany wood filler. With the surface repaired, the wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer was applied using a 3” - 1/8” nap foam roller. After drying, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper.

The primed wood was then painted with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Owner's Cabin ~ Cabin lights - The original Chris-Craft installed bulkhead-mounted DC cabin lights had been removed by some previous owner. This left the cabin without any DC lighting. The decision was made to reinstall lighting that is as close to the original lights as possible.

Searching the Internet turned-up a set of thirty-year-old, Ward Electric tear-drop lights that were very close to what Chris-Craft had originally installed. A close examination of the wiring revealed that it was chafed and frayed in places. The old wiring was removed and each fixture was rewired with new, marine grade wire.

Owner's Cabin ~ Cabin lights - When the original light fixtures were removed, the accompanying wiring was also removed. New 14 gauges multiple strand marine wire was installed back to the service panel. New mahogany wire cover molding was then milled and mounted. Last, the replacement fixtures were installed back in their original locations.

Owner's Cabin ~ Air Conditioner - With the repair and reconstruction work completed, the decision was made to replace the three old air conditioning units.

After numerous inquiries, research and conversations with other large boat owners and marine surveyors the decision was made to install self-contained Cruisair units and corresponding controls. Mid Coast Marine was chosen to do all of the installation work. A 10K B.T.U. unit was installed in the port closet of the owner�s cabin to cool the owner�s cabin and aft guest cabin.