R Owners Head

Owner's Head - The old toilet had previously been removed and most of the old floor covering torn out. The mirror and light fixtures were also gone.

The open deck seams and loose deck fittings caused rainwater to leak down into the sub decking and cabins below. The leaking rainwater caused the wood to rot and develop mold and mildew on the walls and overhead.

Everything that was not fastened down was removed. Next came the initial cleaning and then a detailed inspection.

Owner's Head - The insides of the upper and lower cabinets in the head were in poor condition from dry rot and in need of replacement. Additionally, the ceramic sink was cracked into two pieces. Given their condition, the decision was made to rebuild the cabinets.

Owner's Head - The vanity and upper cabinet was originally built by Chris-Craft as separate subassembly. Removing the screws around the inside edges of the cabinets freed them. It was discovered that the only thing securing the sink was it's own weight and a lot of caulking that made removal easy. Any nicks, dings, scratches or blemishes were repaired using Famowood mahogany Wood Filler.

Owner's Head - The exposed hull planking and framing were inspected and found to be dirty but sound.

The frames, seam battens and planks were scraped and vacuumed. Even though it would not be seen all the inside planking, seam battens and frames were cleaned with a mixture of water, TSP and bleach.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer were rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After each coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

The wire and plumbing runs were hanging either loose or randomly clumped together into bundles and clamped together with cable ties of varied sizes and types. In order to present a clean neat appearance, any unused brackets, screws, plumbing or wiring were removed. Any protruding screws were cut off.

The abandoned screw holes were drilled out and then plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were dipped in West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

The old cable ties, clamps, mounts and fasteners were removed. The loose wiring was segregated by voltage and type and then the plumbing and wire were neatly dressed with nylon cable clamps. The clamps were fastened using #8 – ½” pan head stainless steel screws.

Owner's Head -The installation of the fiberglass portlight inserts began by removing the portlights, backer panel and metal flashing. This revealed that the white oak frame heads and some deck beams were rotting. The rot was the result of the construction of the portlight flashing, open deck seams and loose stanchion bases.

Owner's Head -The decision was made to use a ‘simple scarf joint’ technique to make the repairs to the bad hull frames and deck beams. Each bad frame and beam was cut back to solid good wood. Next, an 8:1 scarf was cut in the remaining good wood. Following that, a cardboard template was made that conformed to the shape of the hull or subdeck where the new wood would be attached. New frame and beam members were cut from 1 ½” * 6” White Oak planks. Then new frames and beams were then cut with the same 8:1 diagonal cut. Next, the two pieces were then buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with West System 404 high-density filler. Last, while the epoxy was still wet the two pieces were clamped together and then fastened with several #8 screws. A long straight edge run fore & aft along the deck beams insured that all the beams were aligned then new deck beams and corresponding frames were reattached with new stainless steel carriage bolts.

Owner's Head - The portlights were leaking. In removing the portlights, it was interesting to find that the some of the portlights had been bedded and sealed with an assorted mixture of window glazing compound, polysulfide and 3M-5200. It appeared that each layer of goop was applied on top of the previous layer. It was obviously a poor way of sealing the portlight to the hull and flashing. Additionally, over the years, and owners, the type and size of fasteners that were used on the portlights had evolved so that very little was common or standardized. The portlights showed years of accumulated paint and corrosion. The decision was made to strip and refinish them.

The old portlight gasket material was removed. A high-speed wire wheel was used to clean the accumulated paint and corrosion from the portlight bolts, nuts, washers and dogs. The front and backsides of the portlights including the aluminum portlight dogs were sprayed with two coats of Rust-Oleum Red Primer. After drying overnight, they were again sprayed with two coats of Rust-Oleum Gloss White Appliance Spray Paint. The bolts, nuts and the inside of the dogs were painted with Never-Seez grease. New gasket was then fitted and secured with contact cement.

The backside of the portlight was heavily coated with 3M-4200 and the portlight inserted into the opening. The portlight was then screwed back in place using 2" stainless steel screws. Sixteen screws hold the portlight next to the seal. The new and standardized screws were lightly screwed into the holes and given a couple turns. It is important to let the caulking cure for a day before tightening the portlight to the boat, and so, the following day the screws were tightened down.

Owner's Head - Using the old cabinets as a template new face panels and counter tops for the cabinets were cut from �� mahogany ply. Just like the originals, cutouts were made in the front panels for the sliding doors. Like the original, the doors would slid in a new �� aluminum track.

The wood was covered with Almond laminate. Almond was chosen as a neutral contrasting color to the White and mahogany. The mastic was rolled on the wood and laminate and allowed to set-up. Dowels were laid down and the laminate laid on top. The dowels were then removed one at a time and the laminate pressed down with a "J" roller. The edges of the laminate were trimmed using a laminate trimmer with a flush-cutting bit.

New mahogany molding strips were cut to the standard Chris*Craft size of 1/4" x 1". With the wood rough cut, the molding was dry fitted and pre-drilled for fastening. One edge of the wood was rounded-over with a 1/2" round-over bit. A Dremmel contour sander was used to smooth the rounded edge of the new molding. The front face was faired using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

The wood was painted with the grain with Interlux � #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel.

The molding was then fastened in place using #16 - 1� brass escutcheon pins.

The molding was painted with three applications of West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. The epoxy was applied with a foam roller and then tipped off with a brush to remove any bubbles. This process allowed the epoxy to slowly seep into and seal the wood. After each application had dried for 24 hours, it was lightly sanded with 120-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

Owner's Head - Holes were cut in the new vanity counter top for the new basins. The new Scandvik stainless steal basins were then installed and secured in place with 3M 4200.

New Series 148 Multi-Purpose PVC 1 �� ID hose was then attached to the basin drain and bronze through-hull fitting. The drain lines were all secured with worm screw marine grade hose clamps.

The hot and cold water feeds to the faucet were made-up using PEX 1/2� OD � 3/8' ID semi rigid Polyethylene tubing and secured with QEST compression fittings The feeds were taken from the supply lines running along the center line of the boat.

Last a new Sealand Vac-U-Flush sanitation system was installed including a 20 gallon holding tank and dockside pump out facility.

The top of the upper cabinet was finished by installing a 2 1/2" x 1" Pin-rail. The rail was painted with three applications of West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. The epoxy was applied with a foam roller and then tipped off with a brush to remove any bubbles. This process allowed the epoxy to slowly seep into and seal the wood. After each application had dried for 24 hours, it was lightly sanded with 120-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

Owners Head ~ Ceiling Boards - Before Chris-Craft began installing headliners they originally installed mahogany ceiling moldings on the outboard edge of the open beam ceiling of the below deck cabins. Their objective was to provide a clean look and screen the view of the bolts, nuts and backer plate hardware that secured the many deck stanchions and cleats. Sometime in the past, these skirt boards had been removed in most of the cabins. The decision was made to reinstall overhead moldings wherever they were missing.

Using the few ceiling molding boards that were still onboard as a model, new 3� x �� mahogany moldings were cut. The edges were then rounded over with a �� round-over bit. With the slats cut to length, the wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

The wood was painted with the grain with Interlux - #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel.

Using a 1/8" nap foam roller and a 3" foam brush the woodwork was rolled and tipped with six applications of Interlux - #95 - Goldspar Varnish. Before the last coat was applied, the previous coats were block sanded with 220-grit sandpaper then vacuumed and wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Owner's Head ~ Ceiling Boards - The overhead outboard ceiling edge molding was fastened to the exposed deck beams using #6 - 1� oval head screws and finish washers. The slats were positioned with 1� spacing in between the two slats and away from the out board edge.

With the help of the Internet, original Kirsch 7000 series window treatment hardware was acquired from auctions.

The hardware was soaked in full strength ammonia for a week in order to loosen the old paint, stain, varnish and green patina. The parts were then scrubbed with a nylon brush and rinsed clean.

Owner's Shower -The owner's shower was showing its age with years of built-up paint on the overhead beams and fiberglass shower pan. Likewise, the laminate on the walls was a gold speckle design that went out of fashion many years past. The aluminum trim around the shower pan edge was deeply pitted, scratched, gouged and ready for replacement.

Owner's Shower -The overhaul of the owner's shower began with the removal of the plumbing fixtures, bi-fold door and the associated hardware. Next was the removal of the old laminate. The easiest way to remove laminate in one piece is to use a heat-gun. Start heating the laminate in a corner and then slowly begin pulling it away. The process takes patience and if done slowly the piece will come away in one piece. The old pieces become patterns for the replacement pieces. The aluminum molding around the shower pan was held in place with all manner of screws, ring nails and goop.

Owner's Shower - The shower pan was next to come out. The bottom of the pan rests on a sub floor while the sides rested on framing strips. It was interesting to find that the shower drain was disconnected. There was a sump pump for the shower with a hose attached but the hose was not connected to the shower drain. All indications were that the hose had been disconnected for a number of years.

The frames, seam battens and planks were scraped and vacuumed. Even though it would not be seen all the inside planking, seam battens and frames were cleaned with a mixture of water, TSP and bleach.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer were rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After each coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

The wire and plumbing runs were hanging either loose or randomly clumped together into bundles and clamped together with cable ties of varied sizes and types. In order to present a clean neat appearance, any unused brackets, screws, plumbing or wiring were removed. Any protruding screws were cut off.

The abandoned screw holes were drilled out and then plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were dipped in West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

The old cable ties, clamps, mounts and fasteners were removed. The loose wiring was segregated by voltage and type and then the plumbing and wire were neatly dressed with nylon cable clamps. The clamps were fastened using #8 – ½” pan head stainless steel screws.

The heavy residue from the old glue that held the old laminate in place on the wall was removed with aggressive sanding with 30-grit sandpaper. After sanding, the surface was ready for the new laminate.

Owner's Shower - The shower pan was painted with multiple applications of Strypeeze paint and varnish remover followed by hand scraping to remove the accumulated old finish. After stripping, any nicks, dings, scratches or blemishes were repaired using a fairing compound of West System 105 / 205 epoxy thickened with System Three - Phenolic Microballoons. After each coating had cured, it was faired using 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer were rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After each coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

The walls were covered with Almond laminate. Almond was chosen as a neutral contrasting color to the White and mahogany. The mastic was rolled on the wood and laminate and allowed to set-up. Dowels were laid down and the laminate laid on top. The dowels were then removed one at a time and the laminate pressed down with a "J" roller. The edges of the laminate were trimmed using a laminate trimmer with a flush-cutting bit.

New mahogany molding strips were cut to the standard Chris*Craft size of 1/4" x 1". With the wood rough cut, the molding was dry fitted and pre-drilled for fastening. One edge of the wood was rounded-over with a 1/2" round-over bit. A Dremmel contour sander was used to smooth the rounded edge of the new molding. The front face was faired using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

The molding was painted with the grain with Interlux � #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel.

The molding was then fastened in place using #16 - 1� brass escutcheon pins.

The molding was painted with three applications of West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. The epoxy was applied with a foam roller and then tipped off with a brush to remove any bubbles. This process allowed the epoxy to slowly seep into and seal the wood. After each application had dried for 24 hours, it was lightly sanded with 120-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

Owner's Shower - The shower was completed by first cutting a 6” hole in the new shower wall. A second hole was then cut for the new hand held shower wand. A Shureflo slide rail, hand held shower and mixing valve were then installed.

The hot and cold water feeds to the faucet were made-up using PEX 1/2� OD � 3/8' ID semi rigid Polyethylene tubing and secured with QEST compression fittings The feeds were taken from the supply lines running along the center line of the boat.

A new Rule 12-volt shower sump pump equipped with an automatic float switch was then installed below the sole in the aft guest cabin. Gray water discharge was accomplished with new Series 162 PVC 1” ID hose connected the shower drain to the sump pump and new Series 162 PVC ¾” ID hose connected the sump pump to the bronze through-hull fitting.

Cabin lighting was supplied by new 12-volt DC overhead florescent light fixtures were installed in the center of the overhead. A 110-volt GFCI receptacle with grounded 14 gauges multiple strand wire was installed next.

The decision was made to trim the openings and exposed edges with mahogany trim molding.

New �� x 1� mahogany molding strips were cut. With the molding rough cut, the outboard edge of the molding was rounded-over with a 1/2" round-over bit. A Dremmel contour sander was used to smooth the rounded edge of the new molding. The wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

The molding was painted with the grain with Interlux – #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel.

The molding was painted with three applications of West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. The epoxy was applied with a foam roller and then tipped off with a brush to remove any bubbles. This process allowed the epoxy to slowly seep into and seal the wood. After each application had dried for 24 hours, it was lightly sanded with 120-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

The molding was then fastened in place using #8 - 1” stainless steel screws and finish washers.

Owners Shower ~ Ceiling Boards - Before Chris-Craft began installing headliners they originally installed mahogany ceiling moldings on the outboard edge of the open beam ceiling of the below deck cabins. Their objective was to provide a clean look and screen the view of the bolts, nuts and backer plate hardware that secured the many deck stanchions and cleats. Sometime in the past, these skirt boards had been removed in most of the cabins. The decision was made to reinstall overhead moldings wherever they were missing.

Using the few ceiling molding boards that were still onboard as a model, new 3� x �� mahogany moldings were cut. The edges were then rounded over with a �� round-over bit. With the slats cut to length, the wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

The wood was painted with the grain with Interlux - #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel.

Using a 1/8" nap foam roller and a 3" foam brush the woodwork was rolled and tipped with six applications of Interlux - #95 - Goldspar Varnish. Before the last coat was applied, the previous coats were block sanded with 220-grit sandpaper then vacuumed and wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.