R Saloon

Controls

Wet Bar

Forward Head

Forward Cabin

Stern

Lazarette

Galley

Start

Lower Hull

Upper Hull

Deckhouse

Wheelhouse

Aft Deck

Dinette

Saloon

Aft Cabin

Aft Head

Owners Cabin

Owners Head

Engines

Fore Deck

Saloon Forward - The Saloon contained two swivel chairs, plastic table and the original pull-out sofa bed. The chairs and sofa were damp and mildewed. There were leaks in the cabin top. The seams where the deckhouse met the teak deck leaked. The floor covering had been torn out.

Everything that was not fastened down was removed. Next came the initial cleaning and then a detailed inspection.

Saloon Starboard Aft - In the Saloon there was leaking around and below the side windows. This was evident by the rusted Raritan air conditioner that was sitting just under the starboard aft Saloon window. The entire area was opened-up for a detailed inspection.

Saloon Starboard Forward - The windows, window framing and sash as well as the lower walls and cabinets were rotting and subsequently removed.

Saloon Starboard Forward - All of the wood that was in any way damaged, soft or rotting was replaced with new mahogany. All the replaced wood was fastened with standardized stainless steel screws.

In an attempt to create a clean visually look, the screw holes were first counter-bored and plugged with mahogany bungs all with the grains aligned. The bungs were held in place with Titebond II general-purpose wood glue.

Saloon Starboard Forward - The cornice board that trimmed the top of the port and starboard saloon windows was made-up of two separate pieces. In order to achieve a cleaner look the two pieces on each side were sistered together using West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with West System 404 High Density Filler. The two ends were buttered and joined together, then the inside seam was covered with a 1/4" Luan backer strip that was buttered with the epoxy mix. After the epoxy had dried thoroughly the excess was sanded smooth first with 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper.

Saloon Starboard Forward - The inside wall was framed with 5/8" mahogany stock to match the framing on the port side wall.

Saloon Starboard Aft - The forward part of the common wall between the aft guest head and the saloon was soft to the touch. Opening a hole in the wall revealed that the wall was being held together by its many layers of paint and that the wood was wet and spongy.

The repair work began by removing the bottom molding on the doorway that leads from the controls station down into the saloon. The portion of the wall that was visible in the saloon was covered with a Luan skin. Removing the Luan showed that the wall had been patched several times in the past. A close inspection of that common wall showed that the top outside half of the wall was rotting. The deconstruction continued with the removal of the mahogany skirt board attached to the inside of the starboard side – aft, saloon window. This showed that the end of that plank was rotting. Additionally, the end of the deck carlin was not supported, attached or tied-in to anything, just floating free. It was also discovered that a piece of the short deck beam where the top of the common wall attached to had previously been replaced. The repaired piece was attached with a simple 45° cut. No glue, no screws, it was held in place by being fastened to the common wall which meant that the repair provided no structural support whatsoever. Last, the deconstruction exposed that the starboard bilge blower was fitted to the upper hull but the hose that was attached to the blower was not fitted into the engine room. It was just resting on top of the saloon decking.

Saloon Starboard Aft - The repair work of the common head and saloon wall began by cutting away a ⅔ horizontal portion of the common wall. Next, a new short deck beam was cut and installed. Following that, a new ¾” upper wall replacement piece was cut. The new upper wall piece was dry-fitted to the original bottom wall and marked every 6” in order to make cuts for biscuits. Number 20 biscuit cuts were made in the two boards. The two edges of the boards were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that were thickened with West System 404 high-density filler. Then the boards were married together. Last, the new wall piece was fastened to the new deck beam and hull frame with #8 1½” SS screws.

Saloon Port Forward - The side wall was showing signs of delamination and rot under the many coats of varnish. It was suspected that this area was also part of the leaking down into the dinette below the shelf.

The decision was made to deconstruct and completely open the side wall and shelf.

Saloon Port Forward - Removing the molding and side wall revealed the location of the decorative port hole that was part of the original construction.

Through water testing and inspection it became clear that the leaking inside and subsequent wood rot was caused by a bad seal around the triangular window, coupled with a bad seal where the teak decking meet the cabin side.

The bottom of the window post was rotted through and needed to be repaired or replaced. The framing in the dinette supporting the shelf also needed to be repaired or replaced.

Saloon Port Forward - The decision was made to use a ‘simple scarfe joint’ technique to repair the bad window post. The bad frame was cut back to solid good wood. Next, a scarfe was cut in the remaining good wood of the frame. A new mahogany frame member was cut. Then new frame member was cut with the same diagonal cut. The two pieces were then buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that were thickened with West System 404 high-density filler. Last, while the epoxy was still wet the two pieces were fastened with #8 stainless steel screws. After the epoxy had cured the new framing was sanded smooth.

Saloon Port Forward - Due to the week window framing the outside of the window also needed repair. The three corner areas were sanded and the stress cracks gouged out. The cracks were then buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that were thickened with West System 404 high-density filler. Last, while the epoxy was still wet the three corner areas were fiberglassed. After the epoxy had cured the area was sanded smooth for painting.

The teak deck seams along the cabin side were reefed out and then resealed.

Saloon Port Forward - With the framing repairs completed the re-construction began by installing 1/2" paneling on the outside wall.

Saloon Port Forward - A finished Luan panel was then trimmed out with 5/8" molding.

Saloon Port Forward - With all of the molding in place the woodwork was finished with sanding, stain and varnish.

The wood was first faired with 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

After sanding, the woodwork was painted with the grain with Interlux – #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50%. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel.

The wood was then painted with six coats of Interlux - #95 – Goldspar Varnish. Before the last coat was applied, the previous coats were lightly block sanded with 220-grit sandpaper, and then everything was vacuumed and wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner. The panel was secured to the inside wall framing with #6 ¾” stainless steel screws and finish washers.

Saloon Port Aft ~ Outer Wall - In order to present a clean neat appearance, any unused brackets, screws, plumbing or wiring were removed. Any protruding screws were cut off. The abandoned screw holes were re-drilled and then plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

The frames, seam battens and planks were scraped and vacuumed. Even though it would not be seen all the inside planking, seam battens and frames were cleaned with a mixture of water, TSP and bleach.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer were rolled and tipped using a 1/8” nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After each coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then rolled and tipped using a 1/8” nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Saloon Port Aft ~ Outer Wall - The new outer walls were cut from Luan panels and secured with #6 stainless steel screws to the main frames. The seams were sealed with 3M 4200.

In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer were rolled and tipped using a 1/8” nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After each coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then rolled and tipped using a 1/8” nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Saloon Port Aft ~ Inboard Wall - A new inboard Luan wall panels were measured, cut and dry fitted. Any nicks, dings or gouges were repaired using Famowood mahogany Wood Filler. The new inboard wall was first faired with 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish. After sanding, the woodwork was painted with the grain with Interlux – #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50%. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel. The panel was then painted with six coats of Interlux - #95 – Goldspar Varnish. Before the last coat was applied, the previous coats were lightly block sanded with 220-grit sandpaper, and then everything was vacuumed and wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner. The panel was secured to the inside wall framing with #6 ¾” stainless steel screws and finish washers.

Saloon Port Forward ~ Cabinet Shelf - The cabinet on the Port side of the saloon was just one large cavity. The decision was made to install a shelf across the nook.

First, 1/2 x 1” side support brackets were cut then glued and screwed into the sidewalls.

Saloon Port Forward ~ Cabinet Shelf - A sheet of ½” mahogany plywood was used to cut the shelf. Front and rear ½ x 2” stiffeners were then glued and screwed on the underside edges of the shelf.

Saloon PortForward ~ Cabinet Shelf - In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer were rolled and tipped using a 1/8” nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After each coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then rolled and tipped using a 1/8” nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

The decision was made to trim the exposed edges with mahogany molding.

New �� x 1� mahogany molding strips were cut. With the molding rough cut, the outboard edge of the molding was rounded-over with a 1/2" round-over bit. A Dremmel contour sander was used to smooth the rounded edge of the new molding. The wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

After sanding, the woodwork was stained using Interlux – #573 - C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off with a cotton towel.

The wood was sealed with three applications of West System 105 / 207 epoxy. (The 207 hardener dries to a clear finish.) The first coat was thinned 100% by volume. The viscosity of the second coat was thinned 50%. The last coat was not thinned at all. The epoxy was thinned with lacquer thinner and rolled on with a foam 1/8� foam nap roller and tipped with a foam brush to remove any bubbles. This process allowed the epoxy to slowly seep-into and seal the wood. After drying, the hardened epoxy was smoothed using 220-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

The molding was then fastened to the front of the shelf using #16 - 1” brass escutcheon pins.

Saloon Port Aft - A small area of rot was discovered at the top wall of the wall from the saloon mirror. It seamed to have been caused by the leaking from the front windshield. The windshield had been repaired previously and this rot area appeared to be an unknown leftover. First the rot was dug out and then the wood sprayed with an application of antifreeze in order to kill any rot spoors. The areas were repaired using a fairing compound made from West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was tinted with 1 drop of mahogany coloring agent. The epoxy was thickened with West System 404 high-density filler.

Saloon Port Aft - Over the years and owners, many different types of stains, colors, tints, sealers and varnishes had been used on the boat. The net effect was that the exposed woodwork did not have a uniform color, texture or finish. The choice was made to try to achieve a level of consistency. In order to achieve a uniform look the decision was made to strip, sand, stain and refinish all the wood.

The woodwork was first painted with multiple applications of Strypeeze paint and varnish remover followed by hand scraping to remove the accumulated old finish. Any nicks, dings, scratches or blemishes were repaired using Famowood mahogany wood filler. With the surface repaired, the wood was smoothed using 120 and then 220-grit sandpaper producing a clean smooth finish.

After sanding, the woodwork was painted with the grain with Interlux – #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50%. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel. Last, the wood was coated with six coats of Interlux - #95 – Goldspar Varnish. Before the last coat was applied the previous coat were block sanded with 220-grit sandpaper, then everything was vacuumed and wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Saloon Port Forward - The cabinet doors were removed and the hardware striped off.

The abandoned screw holes were re-drilled and then plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

The Strypeeze had loosened some of the original wood glue that was holding the door together. The seams of the door were re-glued using West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The doors were then clamped on their length and width and allowed to dry for twenty-four hours.

All of the hardware was soaked in full strength ammonia for a week in order to loosen all of the old paint, stain, varnish and green patina. The parts were then scrubbed with a stiff bristle nylon brush and rinsed clean. The mechanical parts were sprayed with WD40 to lubricate and protect them. All of the hardware was then reinstalled using same size and types of fasteners.

Saloon Starboard Forward ~ Floor Hatch - In order to have access to the newly relocated batteries on the starboard side, an access hatch was cut in the forward part of the saloon floor on the starboard side. The hatch size and location was the same as the original one that Chris-Craft built on the port side of the saloon floor.

Saloon Starboard Aft ~ Magazine Rack - Like many things aboard Independence , the original magazine rack was broken and weathered. The cross slat was broken off and the mahogany Luan back was delaminating. With the desire to keep as much of the original fixtures as possible, the decision was made to repair and restore the magazine rack and not to just replace it with something newer.

The delaminating Luan back was injected with West System 105 / 205 epoxy. The epoxy was thinned 100% by volume with lacquer thinner to the consistency of water. This process allowed the epoxy to slowly seep into the wood. In order to pull the delaminating wood together two small boards were wrapped with wax paper and then clamped to the front and back of the delaminating back panel.

Two applications of Strypeeze paint and varnish remover followed by hand scraping succeeded in removing the accumulated varnish on the magazine rack. Any nicks, dings or gouges were repaired using Famowood mahogany Wood Filler. Next, the woodwork was faired using 120 and then 220-grit paper.

Saloon Starboard Aft ~ Magazine Rack - After sanding, the woodwork was stained using Interlux – #573 - C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off with a cotton towel.

The wood was sealed with three applications of West System 105 / 207 epoxy. (The 207 hardener dries to a clear finish.) The first coat was thinned 100% by volume. The viscosity of the second coat was thinned 50%. The last coat was not thinned at all. The epoxy was thinned with lacquer thinner and rolled on with a foam 1/8� foam nap roller and tipped with a foam brush to remove any bubbles. This process allowed the epoxy to slowly seep-into and seal the wood. After drying, the hardened epoxy was smoothed using 220-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

Saloon ~ Ceiling Lights - The saloon was equipped with two Halo Lighting Co. fixtures ("Halo recessed type electric fixture, issue #75680") which supplied ample light to the forward end of the saloon. The decision was made to increase the lighting by adding two more fixtures to the aft portion of the saloon.

Saloon ~ Ceiling Lights - Two original and weathered Halo fixtures were acquired from an Internet auction. The old surface rust on the cases was sanded off with 120-grit sandpaper. The cases were then sprayed with two coats of Rust-Oleum Red Primer. After drying overnight, they were again sprayed with two coats of Rust-Oleum Gloss White Appliance Spray Paint.

Saloon ~ Ceiling Lights - New mahogany frames were cut and the lights fitted. New 14 gauges multiple strand marine wire was installed and the two new lights were wired into the existing circuit.

Saloon ~ Sliding Hatch Track - The hatchway going down into the Saloon from the Wheelhouse was equipped with a sliding hatch. The channel for the hatch on each side was in two pieces with the back pieces on each side twisted and bent.

The decision was made to replace the track with one continuous 5' long channel.