R Upper Hull

Fore Deck

Controls

Wet Bar

Forward Head

Forward Cabin

Stern

Lazarette

Galley

Start

Lower Hull

Upper Hull

Deckhouse

Wheelhouse

Aft Deck

Dinette

Upper Hull - Independence, before starting the repair, renovation and restoration work.

Upper Hull - From the transom to the bow, up to the gunwales the hull planking was inspected. When planking needed to be replaced mahogany was used.

Abandoned screw holes in frames and beams were re-drilled and then plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

The new planking was cut snug and dry fitted. After fitting new screw holes were counter-bored. The edges and seam-battens were buttered with 3M 4200. The new plank was then fastened to the frames and seam-battens with #12 silicon bronze screws.

The counter-bored holes were plugged with mahogany bungs. The new bungs were dipped in West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the bungs were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

Butt blocks were used to cover and seal the ends where two planks butted up against each other. First, the ends of the two planks were buttered with 3M – 4200. Next, the butt blocks were fastened in place with three Silicon-bronze carriage bolts, washers and nuts on each side.

All hull fittings including vents, drains and rails were removed, inspected, refurbished, reinstalled and resealed.

Upper Hull ~ Upper Rub Rail - When the hull inspection and repair reached the upper rub rail it was discovered that some sections of the rub rail was rotting and punkey. The decision was made to cut out the bad wood and install new rub rail where ever necessary.

Removing the cap rail revealed that the underside of the inside and outside edges of the cap rail were never bedded. This meant that fresh water was leaking down to the rub rail, sheer plank and sheer shelf.

The old rub rail was removed at the existing seems. The abandoned screw holes were then re-drilled and plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

Upper Hull ~ Upper Rub Rail - The new rub rail was made from two pieces of 6/4 stock. First, a Bevel Gauge was used to determine the angle of the ends of the good rub rail. The angle was then transferred to a piece of test stock to check that the angle was correct. With the angle correctly determined it was transferred to the new pieces of rub rail.

Upper Hull ~ Upper Rub Rail - The two pieces of the new rub rail were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with West System 404 high-density filler. While the epoxy was still wet the two pieces were clamped and allowed to dry overnight.

Upper Hull ~ Upper Rub Rail - The new rub rail was sanded with 60-grit paper to remove all of the epoxy squeeze-out.

The new screw holes were first bored with a "12 counter-bore bit on 6" centers.

The new rub rail was then fastened to the hull with #12 - 4" Silicon-bronze screws.

The counter-bored holes were plugged with mahogany bungs. The new bungs were dipped in West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the bungs were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

Upper Hull ~ Cap Rail - Removing the cap rail revealed that the sheer shelf, the wood under the cap rail was completely rotted. Some parts of the Sheer Shelf (the wood under the cap rail and inside the sheer plank and on top of the frames and beams) was nothing more than a wet soggy sponge. In some cases the rub rail was loose but not rotting.

A careful investigation and analysis revealed that the polysulfide bedding compound under the edges of the cap rail had long ago failed. The polysulfide was dried-out, cracked and in many cases missing. Over the years rain water leaked under the cap rail and caused the rotting of the sheer shelf underneath.

Using screw drivers and chisels the old wood was removed in between the hull planking and the bulwark.

Upper Hull ~ Cap Rail - With all of the rotting sheer shelf wood removed the hull frames and deck beams were inspected and found to be sound. The protruding screws were cut off and the wood smoothed. Chris Craft had used brass "L" brackets, through-bolted with carriage bolts through the hull frames and deck beams to fasten the sheer shelf to the hull and deck framing.

Upper Hull ~ Upper Rub Rail - A Luan template was continually cut and shaped to reflect the gentle curve and shape of the sheer shelf.

Upper Hull ~ Upper Rub Rail - Using the Luan template the new 2 1/2" sheer shelf was cut from 1 1/4" stock. The new wood needed to have the sides cut in the shape of a parallelogram in order to fit the curve of the sheer plank and the bulwark. The bottom portion of the sheer shelf was bolted through the "L" bracket with 3/8" carriage bolts with nuts and washers. The upper and lower portion of the sheer shelf were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that were thickened with West System 404 high-density filler. While the epoxy was still wet the two pieces were fastened with #12 Silicon-bronze screws using a 6" screw pattern.

Upper Hull ~ Rub Rail - The forward rub rail on the port side was visible deteriorating from the inside out in several locations up to the bow stem. The decision was made to remove the old wood and construct a new rub rail.

Removing the cap rail revealed that the underside of the inside and outside edges of the cap rail were never bedded. This meant that fresh water was leaking down to the rub rail, sheer plank and sheer shelf.

The old rub rail was used as a pattern to help establish the correct curve. A sheet of aluminum siding was used as a base for the new construction.

Given the thickness and curve of the rub rail the decision was made to manufacture the new rub rail from laminated strips.

The two 7/8" x 14' pieces of the mahogany stock were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with West System 404 high-density filler. While the epoxy was still wet the two pieces were clamped and allowed to dry overnight.

The manufactured stock was then cut into 1/4" strips.

Clamping blocks were positioned along the inside of the curve of the old rub rail on top of the siding.

Upper Rub Rail - The strips were cut and the ends staggered so that no two ends were next to one another.

A dry fit test clamping was performed to check the alignment and fit of the new rub rail.

Wax paper was laid down on the aluminum and the clamping blocks fastened on top of it.

The sawn mahogany strips were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with West System 404 high-density filler and positioned on top of the wax paper. The wax paper was wrapped around the sides of the strips and the clamps tightened. With the alignment checked the wood was allowed to dry overnight.

Upper Rub Rail - The new rub rail was cleaned and a Bevel Gauge used to determine the angle of the back cut on the outboard, underside of the old rub rail. The angle was then transferred to a piece of test stock to check that the angle was correct. With the angle correctly determined it was transferred to the circular saw and the new rub rail was cut.

The new rub rail was dry fitted to the sheer plank and lightly clamped in place to test the overall fit.

Upper Rub Rail - With the fit established new screw holes were bored in the rub rail with a "12 counter-bore bit on 6" centers.

The new rub rail would be bedded with two large beads of 3M 4200 that were laid down on the inboard side of the new rub rail.

The new rub rail was then fastened to the hull with #12 - 4" Silicon-bronze screws. The squeeze-out of the 3M 4200 was faired using a tongue depressor.

The counter-bored holes in the rub rail were plugged with mahogany bungs. The new bungs were dipped in West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the bungs were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

Upper Rub Rail - After over four decades of use the original 3/4" half round solid stainless steel rub rail molding was showing its age with many dings, gouges and scratches. The decision was made to refinish the molding ant to try and bring it back to what to some state near original factory condition.

Small 3/4" x 1/2" blocks were cut and fastened to the work table. The stainless steel molding was then screwed to the blocks. Each piece of molding was then progressively sanded with 60, 120, 200, 400, 600, 800 and last with 100-grit paper.

Upper Hull ~ Cap Rail - In removing the cap rail, it was interesting to find that the underside of the wood had been bedded and sealed with an assorted mixture of polysulfide, 3M-5200 and epoxy. It appeared that each layer of goop was applied on top of the previous layer. It was obviously a poor way of sealing the cap rail to the bulwark and rub rail.

Upper Hull - It was obvious even to the casual observer that there was a sag in the hull starting on the port side at amidships and running back to the transom. The sagging was caused by the structural failure of the framing and planking and need to be repaired.

Using jack stands along the chine and under the main frames the port side amidships back to the transom was slowly raised a little each day until the sag was removed. There was a short plank whose seam was open and whose edge looked punkey. The plank was removed and the inside horizontal seam-batten was found to be rotting. That lead to the replacement of a second plank, then a third and a fourth and so on.

Abandoned screw holes were re-drilled and then plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

First, new mahogany seam-battens were cut and fitted horizontal into the cutouts in the main frames. Next vertical filler blocks were cut and fitted vertically in between the horizontal seam-battens. Finally, new 7/8" x 5 1/2" mahogany planks were cut and dry fitted to the hull framing. The new planks were cut to fit snug along their length. The outside of the horizontal seam-battens and the vertical ribs were coated with 3M – 4200. In order to correctly fit the new planks to the old ones wedges were cut from 2 x 4" and then used in conjunction with clamps to seat the new planking before fastening. New #12 Silicon-bronze screws were then used to refasten the planks to the main and intermediate frames as well as the seam-battens. Butt blocks were used to cover and seal the ends where two planks butted up against each other. First, the ends of the two planks were buttered with 3M – 4200. Next, the butt blocks were fastened in place with three Silicon-bronze carriage bolts, washers and nuts.

Upper Hull - The tops of some of the white oak frames were rotting and needed to be repaired. The decision was made to use a ‘simple scarfe joint’ technique to make the repairs. Each frame was cut back to good wood. Next an 8:1 scarfe was cut in the frame. Then new white oak frame tops were cut with the same 8:1 scarfe. The two pieces were then buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with West System 404 high-density filler. Last, while the epoxy was still wet the two pieces were fastened with #12 - 2" Silicon-bronze screws.

Upper Hull ~ Transom - The large air vent on the port side near the transom was in poor condition. Removing it revealed that the wood around it was wet and rotting.

Removing the toe rail revealed that the underside of the inside and outside ends of the toe rail were never bedded. This meant that fresh water was leaking down to the rub rail, sheer plank and sheer shelf.

The decision was made to repair all of the bad wood and not replace the vent but instead to seal the opening with planking.

Upper Hull ~ Transom - The Cap Rail, Rub Rail and Upper Spray Rail was cut back and removed.

The bad planking was cut away revealing that an intermediate frame was cracked from a fastener.

The two sides of the cracked intermediate frame were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with West System 404 high-density filler an double clamped in two directions..

The abandoned screw holes were re-drilled and then plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

Upper Hull ~ Transom - A new 7/8" sheer batted and plank seam batted were cut and fitted. The new battens were fastened to the hull frames with #12 -2" Silicon-bronze screws.

Upper Hull ~ Transom - New 7/8" planks were cut and fitted.

A large continuous bead of 3M 4200 was run along the exposed 1” horizontal outside edge of the seam battens.

West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with West System 404 high-density filler was then buttered onto to the outside edge of the hull plank.

The new planks were fastened on 3" centers to the seam battens with #12 - 1 1/2" silicon-bronze screws. The planks were fastened to the intermediate frames with #12 - 2" silicon-bronze screws, while the planks were fastened to the main frames with #12 - 2 1/2" silicon-bronze screws.

Upper Hull - Because of the extensive repairs to the hull planking, the boat needed a complete repainting. A close inspection of the hull revealed that over the years many different areas had been worked on. In those areas the old paint had been feathered in order to blend it in the new paint. The old paint was stripped off using an 8" random orbital sander with 30-grit hook and loop sandpaper.

Nicks, dings, etc. were filled with a fairing compound made of West System 105 / 205 epoxy that was thickened with System Three - Phenolic Microballoons.. After the fairing compound had cured the hull was re-sanded using 120-grit sandpaper.

Upper Hull - In preparation for the finish paint, two coats of Interlux – Pre-Kote White primer was applied using a 3” - 1/8” nap foam roller. After drying, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. The primed wood was then painted with two coats of Interlux Brightside - White. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the wood was vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Last, the boot top was repainted using Interlux Boot top - #835 - Red.

Upper Hull - During the time that the boat lay abandoned the boarding ladder was removed. A temporary boarding ladder that was constructed and used during the Florida yard period. The ladder had long-ago outlived it's usefulness and was ready for replacement with a proper boarding ladder.

Upper Hull - A new MarQuip hull-side boarding ladder was ordered to replace. Two mounting fittings were attached to the cap rail and two stainless steel straps bolted to the stanchions to securely hold the ladder while cruising.

Upper Hull - Before the new boarding ladder was installed, the inside of the hull was strengthened with a backer board that was secured from the outside with #8 - 1 1/2" silicon bronze screws.

The counter-bored holes were plugged with mahogany bungs with the grains aligned. The new bungs were dipped in West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the bungs were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

The area was then masked and sanded in preparation for repainting.

Upper Hull - The support fittings for the new ladder were leveled, coated with sealant and secured to the hull with stainless steel through bolts. The bolts were reinforced with aluminum backing plates inside the hull. The upper hull was repainted using Interlux Brightside - #4316 - Dark Blue.

Upper Hull ~ Portlight insert - The portlight, (a.k.a. ‘porthole’) flashing around the outside of the portlights has always been a source of irritation and debate within the Chris-Craft community. Constructed of thin stainless steel or aluminum flashing that were hand bent and poorly fitted to the outside hull opening. The stainless was secured to the hull framing and portlight with an assortment of fasteners, such as stainless steel screws, ring nails, glues and various types of goop. Cleaning the surface rust and refreshing the goop each year on each of the sixteen portlights along with looking at the poor construction and fit was at the least, annoying. Other wooden boat companies constructed their boats with molded fiberglass portlight inserts thereby eliminating the problem of leaking portlight flashing. Chris-Craft did not use such devises on their larger cursers but instead relied on the formed metal. Providence provided the opportunity to resolve the situation on Independence. An old ‘woody’ was going to be cut-up and used for winter firewood at the New Jersey boat yard. The old boat was fitted with original molded fiberglassed portlight inserts. A close examination of the inserts revealed that they were in remarkably good condition. The decision was then made to use one of the inserts in order to make a mold for creating fiberglass portlight inserts for Independence.

Upper Hull ~ Portlight insert - In removing the portlights on Independence it was interesting to find that the some of the portlights had been bedded to the framing with an assorted mixture of window glazing compound, polysulfide and 3M 5200. It appeared that each layer of goop was applied on top of the previous layer. It was impossible to tell if this was all done at one time or had been accumulated over the years. Either way it was obviously a poor way of sealing the portlight to the hull and flashing.

Upper Hull ~ Portlight insert - The first step was to make “the plug” for the mold. The old insert was much smaller than the portlight openings on Independence, which meant that the old shell would need to have its length, width and depth extended. Work began by cutting one of the old insert into four pieces along its horizontal and vertical axis. The four pieces were then clamped to the four rounded natural corners of one of Independence’s portlights in order to approximate the length and width that was needed. Heavy 24-oz woven roving fiberglass mat was then laminated into the openings between each of the 4 pieces with West System 105 / 205 epoxy.

Upper Hull ~ Portlight insert - That was followed by wrapping more glass mat around the outside of the shell in order to establish the initial depth of the plug. With the length, width and depth of the plug established the gaps, seams and voids were then filled with a fairing compound of West System 105 / 205 epoxy thickened with System Three - Phenolic Microballoons. After the fairing compound had dried, it was sanded using 120, 220, 320 and then 600-grit sandpaper until all of the flaw and scratch were completely removed. The process was repeated until the plug was completely straight, square and smooth.

Upper Hull ~ Portlight insert - The finished plug was then waxed with 12 coats of mold release wax in preparation for creating the mold. With the plug waxed, two coats of Poly Vinyl Alcohol (PVA) mold release was then brushed on. After drying, two thick layers of White Gel Coat were rolled on. After the second layer of Gelcoat has set-up two layers of 3/4 oz. fiberglass mat as applied. The mat was laid on and then wetted-out with West System 105 / 205 epoxy. A line roller was used to work the epoxy into the fiberglass. This was followed by multiple applications of 8oz fiberglass cloth, until the mold was 1/8" thick. A grinder was used to remove the excess fiberglass cloth from around the edges of the mold while it was still in the plug. A sharpened tongue depressor and tapping of the mold was used to separate the plug from the mold. Any imperfections in the finished mold were corrected with West System 105 / 205 epoxy thickened with System Three - Phenolic Microballoons. After the fairing compound had dried, it was sanded using 120-grit sandpaper until all of the flaws and scratches were completely removed. The mold was then compounded with regular and fine finish compound and then completed with a sealer glaze to bring out a mirror finish.

With the mold completed sixteen portlight inserts were created using the same process for making the plug.

Upper Hull ~ Portlight insert - The installation of the inserts began with the filling of the screw holes in the hull.

Abandoned screw holes were re-drilled and then plugged with hardwood dowels. The dowels were buttered with West System 105 / 205 epoxy and then driven into the screw holes. Later the top of the dowels were cut off and the wood sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

The inside and outside edges of the openings were sanded smooth in preparation for receiving the new fiberglass portlight inserts.

Upper Hull ~ Portlight insert - The inside edge of the flange on the new portlight insert was liberally coated with 3M 4200. The portlight insert was then positioned squarely in the opening and fastened to the hull with #6 1” stainless steel screws. A large bead of 3M 4200 was then laid around the outer seam of the portlight. The 3M 4200 was then faired using a tongue depressor.

Upper Hull ~ Portlight insert - One by one the old flashing was removed and the new fiberglass inserts installed.

Upper Hull ~ Portlights - Each of the Aluminum portlights were cleaned with a wire wheel. A Dermal contour sander was then used to fair out the remaining paintwork. Two applications of Rust-Oleum Grey Professional Gray primer were then sprayed on and allowed to dry over night. After sanding and cleaning the work was completed by spraying on two applications of Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy - White.

The portlight dogs and bolts were wire-wheeled. The bolts were coated with a heavy application of White Teflon grease and screwed into their respective holes.

Upper Hull ~ Porthole covers - With the help of the Internet a collection of after market porthole covers or "eyebrows" were collected.

The covers were first sanded smooth with 120-grit sandpaper. The eyebrows were then painted with two coats of The Interlux � Pre-Kote White primer applied using a 3� - 1/8� nap foam roller. After drying, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper.

The covers ware then painted with two coats of Interlux Brightside - #4316 - Dark Blue. The two coats of paint were rolled and tipped using a 1/8� nap foam roller and a 2" foam brush. After the first coat had dried, the paint was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Before final painting, the inserts were vacuumed and then wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.

Upper Hull ~ Porthole Screen - The boat was originally equipped with a removable screen for each portlight. Over time, all the screens had fall into disrepair. The sixteen aluminum frames were bent, pitted and the screening ripped. The decision was made to try and arrest the further pitting of the aluminum frames and to replace all of the screening.

Upper Hull ~ Porthole Screen - A jig was made to help true-up and straighten the shape of the frames.

The old screening was scraped off and the aluminum frame smoothed using a power wire wheel and a Dremmel contour sander equipped with 120-grit paper.

Upper Hull ~ Porthole Screen - In order to address the pitting of the aluminum frames the frames were first cleaned with acetone next tongue depressors covered with wax paper were forced into the "U" shaped channel of the frames. Thickened epoxy was then smoothed over the pitted areas in order to fill in the holes and gaps in the frames.

Upper Hull ~ Fender Boards - When cruising and required to tie-up next to dock pilings the upper and lower rub rails would rub against the pilings. The rubbing caused the collection of Creosote, tar and splinters along the rub rails and fenders. The decision was made to build two fender boards. It was interesting to find that in measuring two different sets of fender boards on two different boats and at two different times and at two different locations that the sizes were the same. Perhaps in years past fender boards were sold as after market items.

Two pieces of 40” x 5 ½” * 1 ¾” mahogany were cut. The six sides were rounded-over with a ¾” round over bit. A 1” x 1” counter bore was drilled eight inches in from each end of the stock. This hole will help conceal the knot on the end of the fender board line. A ¾” hole was drilled through the stock and into the counter bore. This is the hole that the line for the fender board will fit thorough.

The mahogany boards were then sanded with 120-grit and then 220-grit sandpaper.

After sanding Interlux – #573 - C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% was applied with the grain. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel.

The wood was sealed with three applications of West System 105 / 207 epoxy. (The 207 hardener dries to a clear finish.) The first coat was thinned 100% by volume. The viscosity of the second coat was thinned 50%. The last coat was not thinned at all. The epoxy was thinned with lacquer thinner and rolled on with a foam 1/8� foam nap roller and tipped with a foam brush to remove any bubbles. This process allowed the epoxy to slowly seep-into and seal the wood. After drying, the hardened epoxy was smoothed using 220-grit sandpaper. The whited-out epoxy was then vacuumed and wiped-down with a cotton towel and paint thinner.

The new fender boards were then finished with six applications of Interlux - #95 – Goldspar Varnish. The first, five coats were rolled on, one on top of the other. After the fifth coat, the varnish was smoothed with 220-grit sandpaper. Last, the whitted-out varnish was tacked with a cotton towel and paint thinner and a final coat of varnish was tipped on.

Four 34” pieces of ½ round stainless steel rub rail molding was cut. The rub molding was fastened to the upper and lower portion of what was to be the outside flat of the fender boards.