Repair Plan

Modernization, Reconditioning, Refinishing, Refurbish, Renovation, Repair and Restoration Plan

The objective of the Modernization, Reconditioning, Refinishing, Refurbish, Renovation, Repair and Restoration program is to put the boat into such a state that it can safely be driven thousands of miles, such as from Florida to New Jersey. Also, to be able to live aboard the boat comfortably for an extended period. The project has two phases. In the first phase, the boat will be to put into a safe, sealed, seaworthy and good operating condition. The objective of the second phase will be to recondition and modernize the boat.

Safe, Sealed, Seaworthy and in Good Operating Condition - addresses three (3) tasks.

1. General - Is the boat safe, sea worthy and structurally sound? This means that the boat is dry, does not leak or takes on water due to something being rotting, broken or missing.

2. Mechanical - Does the boat run? Do the engines and directly related mechanical items work correctly, such as, water intakes and discharges, exhaust pipes, air intakes and transmissions? Can it be driven under normal weather conditions for a long distance? This means that the engines start immediately and run continually. Directly related items such as transmissions, alternators, and batteries must work correctly.

3. Safety - Is all the Coast Guard safety equipment onboard and operational? This means that, all running lights; approved life jackets, first aid kit, signal flares, etc. are onboard and working correctly.

1. Stabilize and Seal Exterior - Examine, replace any woodwork that in anyway is not in good condition. This means from the keel to the top of the superstructure, from the bow to the stern. This includes rub-rails, portlights.

2. Recondition Exterior - Repair, recondition and refurbish the entire outside of the boat. Replace any old, broken or not working items such as windshield wipers radio antennas and radar. Remove all the old paint and fiberglass the exposed woodwork on the upper hull. Reseal the deck, stanchions and recondition the teak deck. Refasten, seal and paint the lower hull.

3. Stabilize Interior - Examine, repair or replace any structural woodwork that in anyway is not in good condition. This means cabin tops, walls, and framing including the bilge.

4. Recondition Interior - Repair, recondition and refurbish the entire inside of the boat. Replace any old, broken or not working items such as refrigerator, electric range, and lighting fixtures. Replace the utilities such as water heater, air conditioning and toilets. Strip, repair, stain, varnish and paint the woodwork.

5. Refurnish - Install new window and floor coverings, bathroom linen and bedding.

Within the boating community, there is no agreement on what are the best materials to use on ones boat. Given this fact, the following materials have been found to work well and are used on Independence:

Paint & Varnish:

Bottom

Interlux - #2669 Blue Ultra-Kote

Hull

Interlux Pre-Kote Primer - #4279 – White

Interlux Brightside - #4316 - Dark Blue

Interlux Brightside - #4359 – White

Interlux Boot top - #835 - Red

Superstructure

Interlux Pre-Kote Primer - #4279 – White

Interlux Brightside - #4359 – White

Interior

Interlux Pre-Kote Primer - #4279 – White

Interlux Brightside - #4359 – White

Portlights

Interlux - #174 - White spray engine enamel

Bilge

Interlux - #863 - Bilgekote Gray

Draws

Minwax Wood Finish – Fruitwood 241

Brightwork

Stain - Interlux Wood Filler Stain - #573 C.C. Red Mahogany

Sealing - West System 105 epoxy / 207 Special Coating Hardener

Exterior

Interlux - #95 - Goldspar Varnish

Interior

Interlux - #60 - Goldspar Satin Varnish

Teak care

Bleaching - Te Ka A ~ B

Star-Brite's, Tropical Teak Oil Sealer – Natural Light

Honey Teak

Sealing and gluing

Surface gluing & sealing

West System epoxy

Wood penetration & sealing

West System epoxy - viscosity thinned 100% with lacquer thinner

Hull seams

Interlux - #31 Seam Compound - White (used above waterline with flush seams)

Interlux - #30 Seam Compound - Brown (used below waterline with flush seams)

Deck seams & Bedding compound

3M 4200 - Black

Portlight sealing

3M 4200 – White

Wood Filling

Famowood - Wood Filler

Wood Glue

Outside areas - Gorilla Glue - polyurethane based wood glue

Inside areas - Titebond II general purpose wood glue

Paint & varnish removal

Strypeeze - paint & varnish remover

Bilge Cleaner

Simple Green liquid soap

Bedding Hardware

All outside, through bolted, fittings are to be bedded on a rubber gasket made from an automotive tire inner tube

Caulking

DO NOT use Silicon Rubber caulk on anything for any reason

3M – 5200 should only be used VERY sparingly. Use 3M – 4200 instead

All weather deck fittings that are removed or replaced are to be bedded with 3M-4200 caulk and a gasket made from a car tire inter-tube

Planking and Framing

All new planking MUST conform to the US Coast Guard standard - http://www.uscg.mil/hq/g-m/nvic/7_95/n7-95.htm without exception.

Before any hull or bottom planks are replaced the chine must be straight and the hull square on ALL axes using plum lines and water levels

Any broken, distressed, soft or any rotting wood will be repaired or replaced

No short plank patches will be installed, only full-length planks

New planks MUST cover at least three (3) frames between but joints.

All but blocks will be fastened to the hull planking with Carriage Bolts and lock nuts

Any part of the boat that is leaking or wet in any way will be repaired

Any hull screws that are discovered not to be counter-sunk will removed, the screw hole filled with an epoxy covered dowel or bung then counter-sunk and then the screws reinstalled and covered with a bung.

All countersunk screws will be covered with Bungs and not epoxy or polyester. All bungs will be secured with polyurethane glue, i.e. Gorilla Glue. Do not use epoxy or 5200 to secure the bungs in place.

No cotton will be used to seal or fill any hull planking. Hull planking will be cut to fit snug on all sides.

Polyester resin will NOT be used on the boat for any reason. Only epoxy is to be used.

Bondo will NOT be used on the boat for any reason. Only epoxy is to be used.

Only REAL Mahogany such as Honduras Mahogany wood will be used. NOT Philippine (Cedar) Mahogany

Fastening and fasteners

All new fastening MUST conform to the US Coast Guard standard - http://www.uscg.mil/hq/g-m/nvic/7_95/n7-95.htm without exception.

Only #12 Silicon-bronze screws will be used for hull fastening.

All hull screws must be placed no further apart than every 6 inches

Screw sizes and type will be standardized within a given area of use. This will eliminate different types and sizes within any one application.

Any over-sized screws will be replaced with the correct size

All abandoned or broken fasteners must be removed

Before a screw is installed in an existing screw hole the hole must be plugged with an epoxy or glue, covered dowel, toothpick or bung then cut off and the area faired.

All abandoned screw holes must be plugged with an epoxy or glue covered dowel, toothpick or bung then cut off and the area faired.

Any time an application calls for the use of a nut, a stainless steel Nylon "lock nut" is to be used. If a washer is called for, a stainless steel "lock washer" is to be used.

Wood used inside the boat will be installed using stainless steal screws.

When old bungs need to be removed and when the wood will be reused the bungs should be removed using a Forstner bit.

If staples are needed then only “Monel” staples are to be used.

All exposed screws will have their threads lubricated with “Slick Seam” to seal the screw in the wood.

Electrical and Electronics

Any electrical item that is not working as designed or intended will be repaired or replaced

Any new item that uses DC power will be installed on the 12-volt system. If that means making changes to the electrical service panel then the panel should be changed.

Any electrical item or wiring that is no longer in use will be completely removed

All electrical wiring will be connected to conform to the ABYC recommended standards

All wiring will be segregated by voltage and dressed separately

Any electrical wiring that is not dressed/secured is to be secured to the framing with Nylon Cable Clamps for light single wire or Nylon Cable Ties for wire bundles or heavy wire

Any new wiring that is installed will conform to the ABYC recommended color codes

Any wiring that is not correctly color-coded will be replaced with the correct color and size

If a DC item, such as electronics, lights, etc., is worked on for any reason, or in any way, the DC feed will be tested for voltage loss. If voltage loss is found, it will be corrected at that time

Plumbing

ALL fresh water supply lines will be made-up using only PEX polyethylene tubing

ALL fresh water fittings will be made-up using QEST fittings

Any plumbing item that is no longer in use will be completely removed

Do Not use “Red” Loctite Threadlocker, only use the “Blue” Loctite Threadlocker

Do Not Teflon tape on any threads, use only use Teflon Paste (pipe dope)

Priority	Description	Status
A00	Safe Operating Condition – Lower Hull
A01	Inspect & repair lower hull planking	Completed 1997
A02	Refasten lower hull	Completed 1997
A03	Paint lower hull	Completed 2001
A04	Inspect propellers & shafts	Completed 2001
A05	Inspect struts and bolts	Completed 2001
B00	Safe Operating Condition – Upper Hull
B01	Inspect & repair upper hull planking	Completed 2001
B02	Refasten upper hull	Completed 2001
B04	Paint upper hull	Completed 2001
B05	Strip, paint and varnish transom	Completed 2001
B06	Repair swim platform	Completed 2001
B07	Install Chris Craft logo on port & starboard bow	Completed 1998
C00	Safe Operating Condition – Hull Framing
C01	Remove unused clamps, hose, screws & wire from forward guest head hull & bilge	Completed 2007
C02	Remove unused clamps, hose, screws & wire from forward guest cabin hull & bilge	Completed 2003
C03	Remove unused clamps, hose, screws & wire from galley & dinette hull & bilge	Completed 2007
C04	Remove unused clamps, hose, screws & wire from saloon	Completed 2001
C05	Remove unused clamps, hose, screws & wire from engine room hull & bilge	Completed 2005
C06	Remove unused clamps, hose, screws & wire from companionway hull & bilge	Completed 2003
C07	Remove unused clamps, hose, screws & wire from aft guest head hull & bilge	Completed 2003
C08	Remove unused clamps, hose, screws & wire from aft guest cabin hull & bilge	Completed 2001
C09	Remove unused clamps, hose, screws & wire from owner’s head hull & bilge	Completed 2003
C10	Remove unused clamps, hose, screws & wire from owner’s shower hull & bilge	Completed 2003
C11	Remove unused clamps, hose, screws & wire from owner’s cabin hull & bilge	Completed 2001
C12	Remove unused clamps, hose, screws & wire from lazarette hull & bilge	Completed 2001
C13	Clean out bilge in forward guest head	Completed 1999
C14	Clean out bilge in forward guest cabin	Completed 1999
C15	Clean out bilge in galley & dinette	Completed 1999
C16	Clean out bilge in engine room	Completed 1999
C17	Clean out bilge in aft companionway	Completed 1999
C18	Clean out bilge in aft guest head	Completed 1999
C19	Clean out bilge in aft guest cabin	Completed 1999
C20	Clean out bilge in owner’s head	Completed 1999
C21	Clean out bilge in owner’s shower	Completed 2003
C22	Clean out bilge in owner’s cabin	Completed 1999
C23	Clean out bilge in lazarette	Completed 1999
C24	Clean out limber holes in forward guest head bilge	Completed 1999
C25	Clean out limber holes in forward guest cabin bilge	Completed 1999
C26	Clean out limber holes in galley & dinette bilge	Completed 1999
C27	Clean out limber holes in aft guest head bilge	Completed 1999
C27	Clean out limber holes in from engine room bilge	Completed 1999
C29	Clean out limber holes in aft guest cabin bilge	Completed 1999
C30	Clean out limber holes in owner’s head bilge	Completed 1999
C31	Clean out limber holes in owner’s shower bilge	Completed 2003
C32	Clean out limber holes in owner’s cabin bilge	Completed 1999
C33

Description

Safe Operating Condition – Lower Hull